For sure, prep is HUGE. Try the Groits once, I dont think you will be disappointed. Ultima Paint Guard+ seems like it worked well for you. The market is saturated with Spray Wax this and that.
Durable & noob-friendly wax/sealant recommendations?
- Thread starter d00df00d
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I used to crazy and spend a lot of time on the cars that way. Now as I'm older, body aches and pains, I like a nice wash, get the big junk off and give it a coat. No time or energy to get every spider swirl corrected. The UPGP+ had no cleaning or other like many new ones, just a coat but did that well.
I try to get my new or new to me cars at least once with a clay mitt, maybe Iron remover, and then a better polish/wax combo. After that it's decently protected and pretty easy to keep that way.
Mine are also all daily drivers and parked outside then tack in parking lots and other idiots.
My normal yearly process is
1. Rinse (whole car)
2. Foam, 1-2 min dwell, rinse (whole car)
3. Foam, wash mitt (1 panel at a time), then rinse (whole car)
4. Foam, clay mitt until smooth (1 panel at a time)
All done by hand, except for the foam gun (it's not even a foam cannon).
Does that seem like enough to give Griot's 3-in-1 a decent surface?
1. Rinse (whole car)
2. Foam, 1-2 min dwell, rinse (whole car)
3. Foam, wash mitt (1 panel at a time), then rinse (whole car)
4. Foam, clay mitt until smooth (1 panel at a time)
All done by hand, except for the foam gun (it's not even a foam cannon).
Does that seem like enough to give Griot's 3-in-1 a decent surface?
Sounds like a legitimate plan. For my 2023 Rav4 Hybrid purchased new. I have only used Groits 3 in 1 after a good good hand wash about every 3 months -- I give it a coat.
My routine for my other vehicles in signature
1) Good hand wash with Turtle Wax Max Power car wash
2) Orbital buffer once a year -- Groits Complete Compund buff on and off
3) Chemical Guys All In One Polish & Sealent --- buffed on and wool buffer wheel off
4) First Coat of Groits 3 in 1 -- wiped off really well with clean towel
5) 24 hrs later -- 2nd coat of Groits 3 in 1 wiped off really well again with clean towel
Note: Then every 3 months I give them a fresh coat of Groits 3 in 1 and its been working out really well for paint protection/beading affect.
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The only thing somewhat special about 3 in 1 is the durability and availability. Everything else about it is average. Water behavior is subpar. I like very hydrophobic products for ease of drying with air. Good product don't get me wrong, and it does hold up well. But's nothing special and kind of dated compared to some of the newer spray sealants.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
Which would be...
ADS Ceramic Sealant, Collinite Beadcoat, NV Lustre, Can Coat....they're a dime a dozen. 3 in 1 excels in durability and that's it.
I shouldn't say 3 in 1 is dated. Could use an upgrade in its hydrophobic quality. But it's a good product and I wouldn't hesitate to use it if you're looking for a pretty durable spray product.
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
Can Coat is well reviewed, but expensive. I think that is the sweet spot for Griots 3 in 1 spray. Relatively inexpensive, easy to find, and pretty simply application process. There are better products for sure, but require a bit more cost and effort.
I wish Scott was still posting, but he took a break.
Here is his 11 month testing of spray on wipe off ceramic and graphene products:
Do you have a sense of how Can Coat compares to Griot's 3-in-1 on durability and ease of use?
f355spider
$50 Site Donor 2025
I would recommend watching the video links I provided. The detailer that performs those tests give a lot of information.
Note his videos are very informative way better than anyone else on youtube...he will start the first video in each series with application and describe how it goes on and any issues with the application. He then gives monthly updates that include weather conditions the car hood he uses is being exposed to. He also gives the hood weekly washes, I believe. His testing is probably most "real world" of anyone one youtube, because it includes being left outside in the heat, and rain for months...some going over a year. It is surprising how many expensive products fail in the first one to two months.
Due to the amount of rain and freeway driving in rain I do, I get slightly shorter life out of the products he reviews. In particular along the lower rocker panels and front bumper due to road splash. Others may get longer if they are not in rain as much.
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Turtle Wax seal and shine is the easiest one I've used plus its cheap and durable with good shine and slickness. I find it streaks very little and you can get away with imperfect technique and get good results. Griot's 3 in 1 is good but I think it is a little hard to deal with and doesn't buff out as easy as the seal/shine.
I've used both multiple times. For maximum durability you should polish the paint and use a good panel prep. If you dont have to polish, but at least clay, decontaminate.
Griot's can bit a bit fincky. Can Coat is much more hydrophobic. I had 12 months of very good beading with CC. I used Gyeon Primer though, so the bond was really good. I think if you're not going to polish maybe just use Griot's 3 in 1. Can't go wrong with either one. Just lacks the high contact angle beading of Can Coat.
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Meh, I wouldnt waste my time with any sealant when you can coat your whole vehicle a couple times over for $25.
Put the rest into proper paint correction.
https://nohypeceramics.com/products/no-hype-3-year
Put the rest into proper paint correction.
https://nohypeceramics.com/products/no-hype-3-year
So, two things I'm trying to figure out with these high-ease-of-use ceramic sprays (Griot's 3-in-1, Gyeon CanCoat):
1. If I don't remove every last bit of wax first, will they still last longer than a good wax? Or might they be shorter-lived than a good wax?
2. If I just apply them 2-3 times over a year or so after some fairly normal decon each time, will they gradually replace any wax residue? Or will they fail to adhere properly until I do some more thorough surface prep?
I described my normal process here. I use relatively gentle soap, albeit at fairly high concentrations (like 2x recommended in the foam gun reservoir, with max ratio). Trying to assess whether that's enough to get some benefit from these ceramic sprays vs. what I've been using, or if I need to do more (and if so, what).
1. If I don't remove every last bit of wax first, will they still last longer than a good wax? Or might they be shorter-lived than a good wax?
2. If I just apply them 2-3 times over a year or so after some fairly normal decon each time, will they gradually replace any wax residue? Or will they fail to adhere properly until I do some more thorough surface prep?
I described my normal process here. I use relatively gentle soap, albeit at fairly high concentrations (like 2x recommended in the foam gun reservoir, with max ratio). Trying to assess whether that's enough to get some benefit from these ceramic sprays vs. what I've been using, or if I need to do more (and if so, what).
I've been using Torque Detail products on all my cars for several years and am very happy with it.
https://www.torquedetail.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopPkY2HnczCX-NB1QFlfeH-bHiAuwwoc5b4bWnhzzH6joAeTPqL
Currently on new or newish cars with high-quality paint, I'm using only the ceramic detailer...
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/waterless-car-wash-spray
...and the ceramic spray.
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/spray-on-ceramic-coating-for-cars
I'm 81YO and have a replaced shoulder joint and the other one is mostly worn out, so whatever I use has to be easy-on, easy-off, and these two products are surely that--one merely sprays them on and wipes them off with a first and then second microfiber towels. (I use Costco's yellow ones for the first towel and Torque's MF towels...
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/microfiber-towels-cars
...for the buffing, 2nd towel.
Just washed and 'polished' my '23 Explorer.. Had the car washed at a my regular brushless carwash and then applied the pink-colored detailer section by section and in the cool garage; doing that took maybe 2 hours, and I do NOT work fast.. The next day...yesterday, Saturday...I applied the Ceramic Spray section by section and that took another couple hours.. I can't reach the roof of my Explorer--I'm too old to risk using stools to reach it--so I simply don't polish it since it's invisible to all but the tallest people around, but my son will be here soon to do that for me, and only with the detailing spray.
It looks simpy gorgeous...
And FWIW, I'm just a retail customer of Torque's, paying regular prices for their stuff.
Oh yes, their Massive Absorbing Drying Towel
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/drying-towel
...is the best drying towel of any kind I've ever used.
https://www.torquedetail.com/?srsltid=AfmBOopPkY2HnczCX-NB1QFlfeH-bHiAuwwoc5b4bWnhzzH6joAeTPqL
Currently on new or newish cars with high-quality paint, I'm using only the ceramic detailer...
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/waterless-car-wash-spray
...and the ceramic spray.
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/spray-on-ceramic-coating-for-cars
I'm 81YO and have a replaced shoulder joint and the other one is mostly worn out, so whatever I use has to be easy-on, easy-off, and these two products are surely that--one merely sprays them on and wipes them off with a first and then second microfiber towels. (I use Costco's yellow ones for the first towel and Torque's MF towels...
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/microfiber-towels-cars
...for the buffing, 2nd towel.
Just washed and 'polished' my '23 Explorer.. Had the car washed at a my regular brushless carwash and then applied the pink-colored detailer section by section and in the cool garage; doing that took maybe 2 hours, and I do NOT work fast.. The next day...yesterday, Saturday...I applied the Ceramic Spray section by section and that took another couple hours.. I can't reach the roof of my Explorer--I'm too old to risk using stools to reach it--so I simply don't polish it since it's invisible to all but the tallest people around, but my son will be here soon to do that for me, and only with the detailing spray.
It looks simpy gorgeous...
And FWIW, I'm just a retail customer of Torque's, paying regular prices for their stuff.
Oh yes, their Massive Absorbing Drying Towel
https://www.torquedetail.com/products/drying-towel
...is the best drying towel of any kind I've ever used.
You technically do not have to polish the paint pre-sealant, wax or coating, but it can be preferable if the paint is in bad shape and for maximum bonding.
At the very least I would do the following:
Pre-wash with an alkaline strip wash (Adam's Strip Wash, BHTouch-Less or if wanting something cheap Turtle Wax Power Wash) to remove as much remaining protection as possible (only polishing can truly remove a coating).
Clay
Wash car using an acidic shampoo like Descale or Purifica.
Apply whatever LSP you want.
There are products like claim to remove any LSP, including some coatings, such as Fireball Waxoff and Kamikaze Cleanse No5, but I'm not sure they're worth it.
Can Coat blows Griot's away in terms of look, self-cleaning and water behavior. If you don't care much about that and just want solid, durable protection, go with 3 in 1.
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Thanks, @buster.
Sounds like more thorough prep would be a good idea, but likely worth it in the end.
Look and water behavior aren't super important to me, but self-cleaning is, so I guess I'm going with CanCoat.
Gyeon seems to suggest that using their Q2M Prep after a regular wash would be enough. Do you disagree? Or am I misunderstanding?
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