Well, I just got home from AA and Havoline was 1.89 there too. I left because I can get it cheaper at WallyWorld. But, IF it were only 1.18 I would have filled my trunk with it
Best value 5W-20 oil???
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Supercrew, Pep boys has it on sale, with rebate. My local Wally world has a gallon for 19.xx. PP at those prices is a screaming buy!
All I'll say is if the reason why your buying Syn oil is to protect it when you over heat the engine or to drive it "out of danger" your fooling yourself.
Sorry but todays engines even overheat a little bit, the bearings will be the last of your problems. The heads will be toast.
Todays Conventional oils protect the normal engine just fine.
I'll keep buying the "cheap" oils and driving my outfits hundreds of thousands of miles like I've done in the past.
And save the thousands of $$ that you are spending over the years.
If you like to spend the $$, great,
But please for the new people who are reading this for the first time, let them think that if you don't run Syn, your engine is going to die and you're going to be protected when your engine overheats.
NO OIL WILL PROTECT YOUR ENGINE IF YOU OVERHEAT IT AND CONTINUE TO OPERATE IT.
Take care, Bill
Sorry but todays engines even overheat a little bit, the bearings will be the last of your problems. The heads will be toast.
Todays Conventional oils protect the normal engine just fine.
I'll keep buying the "cheap" oils and driving my outfits hundreds of thousands of miles like I've done in the past.
And save the thousands of $$ that you are spending over the years.
If you like to spend the $$, great,
But please for the new people who are reading this for the first time, let them think that if you don't run Syn, your engine is going to die and you're going to be protected when your engine overheats.
NO OIL WILL PROTECT YOUR ENGINE IF YOU OVERHEAT IT AND CONTINUE TO OPERATE IT.
Take care, Bill
TropArtic 5-20 syn blend $1.40 qt at Wally World.
Big Lots also has deals occasionally . PP $18 5 qt jug at WW also.
Big Lots also has deals occasionally . PP $18 5 qt jug at WW also.
This is your first service on an 04?
The last engine I had overheat was a 4.9L L-6 in a 1989 F-150 due to a upper radiator hose that was not tightened properly. I had Mobil 1 10W-30 in it. But it was due to the engine being cast iron, both block and head that it wasn't damaged. Most of today's engines have at least aluminum heads if not blocks also. I think no matter what oil you have in one of these engines if it overheats there will be damage.quote:
Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
Sorry but todays engines even overheat a little bit, the bearings will be the last of your problems. The heads will be toast.
NO OIL WILL PROTECT YOUR ENGINE IF YOU OVERHEAT IT AND CONTINUE TO OPERATE IT.
Take care, Bill
Whimsey
"It doesn't make sense until the day comes when the vehicle overheats in an unsafe neighborhood"
Cop- ...and what were you doing in this neighbourhood, sir?
777- looking for an AutoZone that still has GREEN German Syntec.
Cop- I know where there is some, follow me. I'll put the lights on in case you have trouble keeping up.
Cop- ...and what were you doing in this neighbourhood, sir?
777- looking for an AutoZone that still has GREEN German Syntec.
Cop- I know where there is some, follow me. I'll put the lights on in case you have trouble keeping up.
Best value? My first pick would be either Havoline or Trop Artic. Motorcraft would be my backup oil.
i've tried the Wpp marked Autozone 5/20(1.29-1.39) and it performed well and still had some life in it per uoa when i changed it out to Exxon Superflo 5/20 in my 4 banger ford. Which is always sold out around here. those seem to be more value priced. for me i like to do a uoa every 10-15k miles or once a year to see whats going on. you may want to do a change and do a sample and go from there if this is a new car to you.
and welcome to Bitog...
...mudd
and welcome to Bitog...
...mudd
As usual, Bill, right on!!!
let's be reasonable gentlemen/women,
it is just an automobile we are talking about.
driving hwy, should only dictate the OCI and not the type of oil.
if you are driving like my MIL, 2 miles to the MALL and 1.5 to the YMCA, then we need to either put in a gold plated, platinum enriched, kryptonite suspended... you get the idea...
remember reading somewhere that the most wear happens on startup, how about mixing 2-cycle oil with your gas, like I do for my rx-7s?
pls set aside emotions, and save your money to send your kids or my kids to a better college.
if you search this board you will many members that, always did their OIL Changes with the OIL on sale and cheapest filter around. and their ride lated 250k miles plus.
i think moving parts are SUPPOSED to wear, so as long as they donot wear too much, we should be fine.
any reasonable brand of oil with the manufacturers recommended OCI you should be fine.
if are going to extend the OCI to some crazy miles like 15k 25k, well then start reading, do your search, ask your neighbor, or my MIL.
some cars do use OIL to cool, like my RXs, they come with factory oil coolers and it is used to do most of the cooling of the engine.
as long as I have oil pressure, the oil will cool the engine, (barring sludge)
must confess, I do use M1 on my wife honda accord 00 v6, I am going for 8k to 10k OCIs,
and my wife's 06 sienna, cuz em engines are known to be sluge monsters.
FYI: on the accord I am switching to Supertech after this oil change, and I will take sample for blackstone before putting in supertech synthetic. (driven nearly all hwy, 600 miles/week plus)
it is just an automobile we are talking about.
driving hwy, should only dictate the OCI and not the type of oil.
if you are driving like my MIL, 2 miles to the MALL and 1.5 to the YMCA, then we need to either put in a gold plated, platinum enriched, kryptonite suspended... you get the idea...
remember reading somewhere that the most wear happens on startup, how about mixing 2-cycle oil with your gas, like I do for my rx-7s?
pls set aside emotions, and save your money to send your kids or my kids to a better college.
if you search this board you will many members that, always did their OIL Changes with the OIL on sale and cheapest filter around. and their ride lated 250k miles plus.
i think moving parts are SUPPOSED to wear, so as long as they donot wear too much, we should be fine.
any reasonable brand of oil with the manufacturers recommended OCI you should be fine.
if are going to extend the OCI to some crazy miles like 15k 25k, well then start reading, do your search, ask your neighbor, or my MIL.
some cars do use OIL to cool, like my RXs, they come with factory oil coolers and it is used to do most of the cooling of the engine.
as long as I have oil pressure, the oil will cool the engine, (barring sludge)
must confess, I do use M1 on my wife honda accord 00 v6, I am going for 8k to 10k OCIs,
and my wife's 06 sienna, cuz em engines are known to be sluge monsters.
FYI: on the accord I am switching to Supertech after this oil change, and I will take sample for blackstone before putting in supertech synthetic. (driven nearly all hwy, 600 miles/week plus)
It's hard to believe some still prefer to use 5W-30 instead of the called for 5W-20 even after all the data that's been posted in this forum showing that 5W-20 is AT LEAST as good, if not better than 5W-30. Is it the number thing? Do people automatically equate the number 30 with meaning better protection than the number 20? I don't get the misdirected fears of 5W-20. At any rate, I don't think you can go wrong using Havoline in any weight.
Just bought it, no past history available.
You can usually get a rebate deal on Exxon Superflo 5w-20.
Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
I never stated WHAT the problem was ...ie... bearings or heads. All I stated was the engine quitting dues to temperature. If temperature makes the heads go... so be it. If it makes the bearings go ... so be it!
There is a set hot temperature for every engine to remain running at -- another hotter temperature when it shuts down. There are oils that heat the engine faster than others.
This is a mute point because it's a one-in-a-million occurence. But it has happened & folks have lost thousands of dollars trying to stretch their hot engine another mile.
In the end result, I'm saying there are specific oils that will get you further distances in such cases. That distance may only be a mile... but a specific oil could be the difference-maker between saving your engine & losing it when it gets hot -- when you need to stretch that vehicle rolling down the street.
So buy the insurance or don't buy it. That's your choice/your roll of the dice -- your gamble that you won't be that one in a million.
I'm done here.
See Ya' elsewhere
My vote here goes to Motorcraft. It has performed very well in my application (RX8), which is more brutal than most, due to the normal operation oil temperature (the byproduct of using the oil to cool the motor). Motorcraft showed a better UOA than Havoline, although the difference was slight. Group III Conoco blends seem to be good performers in real world conditions.
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