Best Synthetic OTC pcmo

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Any specials on it?


Not aware of any specials on Maxlife Synthetic. If you want deals probaby the buy one get one free is the best now. I belive it is Advance Auto on Pennzoil Platinum and some Quaker State Synthetic.
 
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"Best" could literally be defined according to each individual's own criteria. For me, it would be the one that would get the longest mileage/life out of a "normal" production engine or let you run it in the most extreme conditions (or both) with the least amount of wear inside the engine (bearings, cylinders, rings, valves, cams, journal, crank, etc) and with the least amount of sludge, varnish, other deposits, holds its TBN, and such with a reasonable OCI of 7-10K miles.

I realize this can be hard to pin down...I'm just looking for general, prevailing opinions of OTC synthetics, and of course it has to include GIII since that's what most of them are, anyway.




Assuming street use on a modern domestic engine, most of the Group III based synthetics will do that now. If they meet GM's 4781M spec or Ford's M2C930-A spec, you have the extremes covered. Starting TBN is not an accurate predictor of how long an oil will last. Anything above BL labs method of 1.0 is perfectly acceptable for the OCI. Trying to buy better oil will not make your engine last any longer. Roughly 90% of the wear in the engine is cold start wear and choice of oil will have very little affect on this wear.
 
OK LouDawg you asked 14,000+ people to tell you which synthetic oil is "the best". Since there can only be one "the best" and the votes are in which oil is the winner? Which synthetic oil is "the best"?
 
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....but I can't technically use the Mobil 1 0w20 yet. Still using the MC 5W-20 for now...but still noodling.




Why not? The 0w-20 meets the Ford and Honda oil requirements/approvals.

Drew

>>>Mobil 1 0W-20 is ideal for use in newer cars, trucks and SUVs manufactured by Honda, Toyota, Ford, Mercury and Chrysler, where a 5W-20 motor oil is recommended. Mobil 1 0W-20 not only meets the requirements of manufacturers recommending 5W-20, but it also provides superior low-temperature protection and the exceptional performance of a fully synthetic motor oil.

Mobil 1 0W-20 meets:

ILSAC GF-4 energy conserving viscosity that flows quickly during cold starts.

API SM/CF

Chrysler MS-6395

Ford WSS-M2C930-A <<<
 
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OK LouDawg you asked 14,000+ people to tell you which synthetic oil is "the best". Since there can only be one "the best" and the votes are in which oil is the winner? Which synthetic oil is "the best"?




Technically, I asked for everyone's opinion about best OTC with a certain set of assumptions. I never intended nor expected to come up with "the best one". I wouldn't ever presume to try to come up with that...obviously way too many variables and driving conditions.

Be nice to your fellow Hoosier, okay?
cheers.gif
 
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Why not? The 0w-20 meets the Ford and Honda oil requirements/approvals.

Drew




Oh, I don't doubt that it's fine for use. But by manual says only to use 5W-20, so I figured if there were any problems, there would be fewer warranty concerns if I didn't stray from that.

Maybe I'm wrong...I don't know.
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[qoute] Starting TBN is not an accurate predictor of how long an oil will last.




I agree with this in theory.
However I believe that PP's 8.0 TBN is the reason that it does not seem to last as long as even standard Mobil 1 never mind Mobil 1 Extended Performance. It is in my opinion simply not formulated to last as long. It is a perfectly satisfactory 6000 - 10000 mi oil but it just does not seem to have what it takes for longer drains in the standard 5w30 and 10w30 grades.

An example of an oil with superior TBN retention would be regular Pennzoil with its 6.5 TBN. It seems to outlast many 7.5 TBN conventional oils.
 
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Assuming street use on a modern domestic engine, most of the Group III based synthetics will do that now. If they meet GM's 4781M spec or Ford's M2C930-A spec, you have the extremes covered. Starting TBN is not an accurate predictor of how long an oil will last. Anything above BL labs method of 1.0 is perfectly acceptable for the OCI. Trying to buy better oil will not make your engine last any longer. Roughly 90% of the wear in the engine is cold start wear and choice of oil will have very little affect on this wear.




Where is the limit on how thin an oil to use? I ask this since there must be a point where the bearings do not have a thick enough wedge in them to create that hyrodynamic layer required to prevent metal to metal.Or is thinner better and the "wedge" gets better with increased viscosity -as per Dr Hauss?
Following this, what effect does the oil temperature have on the viscocity choice and where is the "break point" where the thin oil option starts to create wear?
 
If I could not have my "boutique" oil I would just buy Wal-Mart's house brand synthetic. Other than GC( which is more impraticle for me to get than a boutique oil)all the over-the-counter oils are group3 with little variation in additive packages so why not save some money and buy the Tech oil? I have seen pretty good used oil analysis(as good as any other group3)from this oil and the price is hard to beat. If you buy the 5qt jug it costs about 2.60qt.
All of this is just conjecture for me becouse the thought of giving up my boutique oil is more than I can bear at this time
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