How good is Royal Purple's 5W-20, 0W-20, 5W-30?

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as hard as those cars are to work on I don't want to CLEAN OUT to much if it's been there for that many years. Just keep it changed keep it runnung hope for the best. I have not too much luck with those cars at our work when it comes to long life so keep her running and hope.
 
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
In the heat of Dallas Texas....I'd choose a true synthetic 10W-30 over a 5W-30 any day of the week. You would gain more shear stability and lower NOACK volatility. The only sacrifice is cold flow performance, but let's get real. You are not going to experience sub 0*F weather in Dallas.
GMBoy said:
A synthetic 10W-30 is an reduntant grade. It's cheap to make and has proven to be no more shear staple than a premium syn 5W-30. And with a VI in the 140 range a total waste of money. Either stick to 10W-30 dino or treat your engine to the full benefits of a high VI 5W-30 syn or 0W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
In the heat of Dallas Texas....I'd choose a true synthetic 10W-30 over a 5W-30 any day of the week. You would gain more shear stability and lower NOACK volatility. The only sacrifice is cold flow performance, but let's get real. You are not going to experience sub 0*F weather in Dallas.
GMBoy said:
A synthetic 10W-30 is an reduntant grade. It's cheap to make and has proven to be no more shear staple than a premium syn 5W-30. And with a VI in the 140 range a total waste of money. Either stick to 10W-30 dino or treat your engine to the full benefits of a high VI 5W-30 syn or 0W-30.


CATERHAM Yes, thank you i was thinking that!
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Is today's Dino SN oils in 5W-30 perfectly fine too?

Im trying very hard to break out of the "old thinking" that a 10W-30 is in fact more stable than a 5W-30, in this case two SN "dino" oils (lets say Supertech, side by side, SN 5W-30 and 10W-30) and am thinking 5W-30 for the Contour twin i have. Thought of 0W-30 too but the engine is a big unknown so it seems a waste.
 
Originally Posted By: FastGame
When Mobil 1 10W-30 cost 2.99 a qt. its certainly not a "waste of money", "redundant grade" or not
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That's a dino price so I can't argue with you there but it's on clearance for a reason.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

A synthetic 10W-30 is an reduntant grade. It's cheap to make and has proven to be no more shear staple than a premium syn 5W-30. And with a VI in the 140 range a total waste of money. Either stick to 10W-30 dino or treat your engine to the full benefits of a high VI 5W-30 syn or 0W-30.


a redundant grade? Are you kidding me? Amsoil 10W-30 has a VI of 157 (not in the "140 range" you speak of) and an extremely low NOACK of 5.7%. Sorry mate, but your trusted and valued 5W-30 will never have a NOACK that low. My last UOA with this lubricant sheared 0% and remained the same viscosity @ 10.5 cSt.

Stop comparing dino and hydrocracked petroleum to a true synthetic 10W-30, it's not even close to the same performance. If you do not drive in extreme cold temperatures....your 5W and 0W oil formulations are useless, and there are more areas to GAIN performance by sacrificing the VI properties. I seriously chuckle every time you guys think an oils performance is solely based on the VI number without considering the climate. You see VI over 200 and get all hot and bothered in excitement. If it's not required....it's a waste.
 
Well mate you are of course wrong.
If you want to talk about boutique oils, and I consider Amsoil in that category, just take a look at Red Line 5W-30.
It has virtually the same NOACK percentage (6 %) as Amsoil 10W-30 with a higher 162 VI.

VI is really an indication of how much of a multi-grade an oil is at the non extreme temperatures most applications are subject to.
Besides NOACK is a largely over-rated spec'. Sure it's nice to have as low a NOACK percentage as possible, but as long as it's reasonable it doesn't rank high on my list of important attributes in comparing motor oils.
Having said that, Amsoil does have commendably low NOACK percentages for all its oils, but I would still prefer Amsoil 5W-30 for it's higher 166 VI and still excellent 7% NOACK or better still Amsoil's 0W-30 with it's 170 VI and still excellent 7.8% NOACK.
Considering the 5W-30 is the same price as their 10W-30, has proven to be equally shear resistant with better start-up performance at all temperatures renders the 10w-30 obsolete in my book.
 
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

A synthetic 10W-30 is an reduntant grade. It's cheap to make and has proven to be no more shear staple than a premium syn 5W-30. And with a VI in the 140 range a total waste of money. Either stick to 10W-30 dino or treat your engine to the full benefits of a high VI 5W-30 syn or 0W-30.


a redundant grade? Are you kidding me? Amsoil 10W-30 has a VI of 157 (not in the "140 range" you speak of) and an extremely low NOACK of 5.7%. Sorry mate, but your trusted and valued 5W-30 will never have a NOACK that low. My last UOA with this lubricant sheared 0% and remained the same viscosity @ 10.5 cSt.

Stop comparing dino and hydrocracked petroleum to a true synthetic 10W-30, it's not even close to the same performance. If you do not drive in extreme cold temperatures....your 5W and 0W oil formulations are useless, and there are more areas to GAIN performance by sacrificing the VI properties. I seriously chuckle every time you guys think an oils performance is solely based on the VI number without considering the climate. You see VI over 200 and get all hot and bothered in excitement. If it's not required....it's a waste.


Weird.....

Redline 10w30:
HTHS: 3.8
VI: 142
NOACK: 6

Redline 5w30:
HTHS: 3.8
VI: 162
NOACK: 6

Where is the benefit of the 10w30 in the above two lubricants?
 
For OTC synthetic motor oils, M1 is the industry leader.
Their 10W-30 has a VI of only 146 and a HTHSV of 3.0cP.
Their 5W-30 has a VI of 173 and a HTHSV of 3.1cP and
is the spec' oil for the Chevy Corvette?

Considering they're usually the same price, why anyone would choose the M1 10W-30 over the 5W-30 totally escapes me.
 
+1 Have to remember, many folks are attached to old outdated habits, positions, opinions, and HIGHLY resistant to change, even when it makes all the sense in the world ! And it's not
just about the topic of oil !!!
 
It makes me wonder why Mobil even bothers to market a 10w30 M1. The only reason I would consider a 10w30 synthetic over a 5w30 is if it had an HTHS ~10% greater. And Mobil's 10w30 has HTHS 3% less than the 5w30. Are they TRYING to kill the 10w30 grade?
 
You can buy a fully synthetic Valvoline Sypower API SM 10W-30.

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I am slowwwlyyy letting go of the need to buy ANY 10W motor oil... 0W and 5W -ONLY,- and even then, nod to 0W (if it can be found and if it is the right one.)

Someone made the post about how many moons ago 10W USED TO be more shear-stable than 5W, but it was months ago and lost. I would post it up if i could. it should have been a sticky.
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
+1 Have to remember, many folks are attached to old outdated habits, positions, opinions, and HIGHLY resistant to change, even when it makes all the sense in the world ! And it's not
just about the topic of oil !!!

Oh so true!

If the 10W-30 grade was eliminated from the marketplace it would be missed for about 5 minutes, predominately in NA by the old school lot, but everyone would eventually realize it no longer offered anything that can't be sourced with more robust 5W-30 and even 0W-30 offerings.
Everyone would wisely conclude with the benefit of 20/20 hindsight that we should have scrapped the grade a long ago!
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
It makes me wonder why Mobil even bothers to market a 10w30 M1. The only reason I would consider a 10w30 synthetic over a 5w30 is if it had an HTHS ~10% greater.

That would make sense if you had to restrict yourself to what one brand of oil offered. But since you don't have to do that, it's not hard to find a somewhat heavier 5W-30 or even 0W-30 if that's what you require.
Case in point would be good old GC 0W-30. Doesn't have a particularly high VI (167) for a 0W-XX oil but no one can deny it's one robust 30wt OTC oil, and that's just one example.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
It makes me wonder why Mobil even bothers to market a 10w30 M1. The only reason I would consider a 10w30 synthetic over a 5w30 is if it had an HTHS ~10% greater. And Mobil's 10w30 has HTHS 3% less than the 5w30. Are they TRYING to kill the 10w30 grade?


Probably the same reason most synthetic oil blenders do: market coverage. Some people will want a 10W-30 simply because that was the OEM recommendation.

The rest of my reply isn't directed at A_Harman as I realize he already knows this, but to the thread in general.

In Red Line's case the 10W-30 is an especially redundant grade as their 5W-30 is also VII-free and has the same 3.8 cP HTHS viscosity and 6% NOACK. There are no advantages to running Red Line 10W-30 in place of Red Line 5W-30. None.
 
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