"Best" SP Oil These Days

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Oct 8, 2022
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In the 2010s, it seemed to me that consensus converged around PP and PUP as being top of the heap. Especially because of its highly touted gas-to-liquids making it a true synthetic. So I pretty much accepted that and had used PUP and/or PP on my 2013 Focus ST the past 10 years and only occasionally checked the boards. The ST ran for the 10 years, 180000km smooth as butter, no engine deposits, and no problems I could find. I still had intake valve deposits, but that was an evil I accepted and dealt with (one walnut blast, CRC spraying at every OCI).

Fast forward today I have a newly acquired Hyundai Kona with a 1.6T Smartstream motor (GTDI) which calls for an "SN+/SP or ILSAC GF-6" (0W-20) and now looking once again at oils. The manual included with my car mentioned "Recommends Shell Helix Motor Oils". Then I downloaded the US version of the manual and in the same table I saw "Recommends Quaker State". Geez.

I very briefly skimmed the first few pages of this thread and sounds like M1 and Quaker State has since gained favour. Is this the new consensus these days? I remember M1, Castrol (and others) years past being poo-poo'ed because they marketed themselves as synthetics but they actually weren't (and just very highly refined crude). I think I remember the term "severe hydrocracking" being used back then.

Yeah I'm sure sticking with PUP would be fine. But again, I'm just curious as to what the consensus has converged around these days. Thanks.
 
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They're all pretty **** close IMO. When you compare the top tier from any brand you'll likely be splitting hairs. It appears Mobil 1 has reformulated their latest offerings for the better by reducing the VII amount and using thicker base oil cuts.
 
I very briefly skimmed the first few pages of this thread and sounds like M1 and Quaker State has since gained favour. Is this the new consensus these days? I remember M1, Castrol (and others) years past being poo-poo'ed because they marketed themselves as synthetics but they actually weren't (and just very highly refined crude). I think I remember the term "severe hydrocracking" being used back then.
Did you miss the parts about there being no best oil?

Also the part about how hydrocracking works. It's not "highly refined crude".
 
They're all pretty **** close IMO. When you compare the top tier from any brand you'll likely be splitting hairs. It appears Mobil 1 has reformulated their latest offerings for the better by reducing the VII amount and using thicker base oil cuts.
This is my prelim understanding so far.
 
Quaker State Full Synthetic is the best value choice, for $22/5qt, the UOA's always look stellar.

Valvoline Extended Protection shows an early indication of being the best standard interval snag for shelved oil.

For actual extended drain intervals (up to 20,000 miles), M1EP is probably the favorite, especially for a 0w-20.

Havoline Pro-RS is a bit of a dark horse, a solid pick for vehicles needing 6 quarts.
 
Thanks all. It seemed curious to me a few weeks ago (before knowing all this) why PUP and PP have consistently been on sale at what looked like really really low prices compared to others. At any rate I already purchased a couple jugs of PUP (before the fact). For now I'll just stick with the recommended OCI's and I'll do a UOA after my first interval and see what the results are after the first interval on PUP. My car is at 700 km odometer. I plan to do an early change at 1000km and will do a UOA at around 9000km (8000 km interval).
 
Quaker State Full Synthetic is the best value choice, for $22/5qt, the UOA's always look stellar.

Valvoline Extended Protection shows an early indication of being the best standard interval snag for shelved oil.

For actual extended drain intervals (up to 20,000 miles), M1EP is probably the favorite, especially for a 0w-20.

Havoline Pro-RS is a bit of a dark horse, a solid pick for vehicles needing 6 quarts.
I can certainly see what you mean by the M1EP 0W-20. I know it's been discussed before. But it almost seems like the 0W-20 and 5W-20 specs got crossed.

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I was a fan of SuperTech until it became unobtainable in my area. Now I'm a fan of Quaker State because of their reasonable price. I have no idea if the are the "best" oil.
 
You will get carbon build up on the back of the intake valves in the Hyundai 1.6T GDI engine, regardless of the oil used. The engine is not designed for longevity and no oil can fix that. As many already said, all SP synthetics will perform similarly in this application. The only way to win is to sell the car before warranty expires.
 
And if the engine was in a Kia, they'd recommend "Total".

Dataless consensus is foolishness. So, I could care less about "what gains favor" on any forum. Lots of idiocratic fanboism and sponsorism on too many websites.

"Best" is an unknown and will always be.

Use any engine oil that meets/exceeds the recommendations. Or, being allegedly inferior HyundaiKia product, follow the HTHS scale and ignore the manufacturer's recommendations by going thicker.

My 2.4GDI theta-2, recommending 5w20 conventional 7500 mile intervals, if filled with 3.5+ hths 5w30, 0w30, 10w30, 0w40, or 5w40 synth oil, does not get an OE oil filter, and is on the ~3750 mile severe service interval for the oil filter and oil. I run toptier fuel often, and still use a bottle of quality fuel system cleaners at my interval. And, I run a spray can intake valve cleaner at least 2 out of 3 oil change intervals. The previous 2.0T had shorter intervals(3000 miles), 0w-15w 40 grades synthetic oils, and premium fuel always, and toptier very often.

Concerning brands, I alternate with whatever is in stock locally, on sale, rebated, or on the clearance aisle. Not brainwashed!

Use UOA data to see how your 'intervals' are holding up for your unknown location and driving style. Without knowing what is going on with your commute and how it tortures the oil, recommendations are a shot in the dark. You're looking at fuel dilution and ending viscosity for the oil, and particle counts if you care to learn about your filter.
 
You will get carbon build up on the back of the intake valves in the Hyundai 1.6T GDI engine, regardless of the oil used. The engine is not designed for longevity and no oil can fix that. As many already said, all SP synthetics will perform similarly in this application. The only way to win is to sell the car before warranty expires.
Carbon build-up is a foregone conclusion, something I've learned to accept and live with when I had my last car (Focus ST). Carbon deposits in my new Hyundai is something I'll live with too. That means CRC in the vacuum hose before every oil change. Hopefully that'll pre-empt the need for a more expensive walnut blast.

Yeah the PUP i got was pretty cheap up here in Canadian Tire for $34 CAD/jug. I got two of those. But I forgot to check the "boards" for the "flavour of the year". ;)

I won't bother returning the PUP. I'll use those up, do the UOA, then I'll move on to a M1EP.
 
Quite a stretch to label Hyundai/Kia as inferior based on isolated and specific issues. Toyota is not immune and has had arguably more issues.

H/K are amongst, if not most "in house" built vehicles.
 
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