This.
Best rustproofing options for a new vehicle?
- Thread starter Elkins45
- Start date
I wish I had and I will be from now on. This truck I am in and out of it all day long, Monday to Friday right through the winter.
I need to find rubber floor for 99-06 Silverado extended cab. Carpet never gets died out.
Krown undercoating? They warranty for life of vehicle but you have to get it done every year, around $150 or so I think.
I spray on a film made by Cortec Corp - theruststore.com sells it in a 5 gal pail. It's nasty, expensive, and an all-day affair when I do a vehicle, but it seems to help.
JHZR2
Staff member
I agree but like the opposite.
I have had issues with waxes not curing and adhering properly in some places, allowing flaking or spots for capillary action and slower drying, which is why the oil coverage is important. It lets the wax cure per design, then fills voids or issues.
JHZR2
Staff member
When the tars and rubbers dry out, they can hold water underneath and be sources of rust start. That’s why a creeping oil reapplication is important.
They salt at least 10 times a year where I am. My beater typically began as my new car so if I don’t treat it early then it won’t ever get the chance to become a beater.
Is this the stuff that hardens like black rubber?
yup, will do more harm that good in the long run.
There are several creeping oil based products. NH Coatings, CarWell, Krown, Noxudol. It may come down to a near-by place that can do the application. And how good a job the guy does doing the application.
NH Coatings has a black tinted and a clear-ish version of the product. And they have a thick version you apply with a brush on areas where there may be wash off from road spray.
NH Coatings has a black tinted and a clear-ish version of the product. And they have a thick version you apply with a brush on areas where there may be wash off from road spray.
Lived on the west coast for years drove on the beaches of Washington and Oregon. The best thing we did after was put a sprinkler that spins around under our cars the engine are then the passenger area then the trunk area for a few hours to wash off all the salt water and sand never had a rust problem I do that every year now that I live where they salt the roads still not a problem.
This is the underside of my 150,000 mile 2015 F150 driven through midwest winters. It was coated with straight boiled linseed oil 3 years ago which dripped for 3-4 days before hardening to the point of being gummy but dry. Just normal dirt gets on you if you touch it. The differential and cover did have some rust and the linseed oil darkened it to the point it's not noticeable. I also had rust on the welds and sharp corners when I first coated it and it's also no longer noticeable. I Hotsy'd the bottom and coated with 25%penetrol 75% boiled linseed oil which dried much more quickly about a month ago. IMO leaves a clean OE look. I coat pretty much everything made of steel or iron. It holds up well enough that every other year is my plan and maybe a light touch up annually where needed.
JTK
$100 Site Donor 2025
If you are referring to the black roofing tar Ziebart material that dries like a latex paint, this is the worst advice you could give somebody. Absolute horrible product.
If it's in regards to an oil spray. Bad advice also. These were never intended to be once and done products.
There are a couple of different applicators within an hour's drive of me, so this looks promising.
I suspect it's hard to do a decent DIY job if you don't have access to a lift.
Well a lift sure helps but it can be done with ramps. Also the pros know where to drill a hole or two in the doors and slide in a two or three foot wand.
The best rust preventative is a good paint. Once you oil it up you can never paint it. Well yeah but the cost to clean ALL the oil off would be very high. New vehicle, make sure it is painted real good, and let the paint cure then oil it if that is what you need or want.
Paint doesn't need to be reapplied every year or so. It just needs to be applied the correct way.
Paint doesn't need to be reapplied every year or so. It just needs to be applied the correct way.
I am not sure this is good advice. I assume we are talking about paint on the frame? The auto manufacturers paint the frame but it still rusts. Once the vehicle is built the frame has various lines, wiring, holes drilled for bolts, screws and inaccessible channels. All of that makes painting nearly impossible if one wanted to do a repainting of the frame and prevent all rust.
The oil based rust preventative sprays creep and get into all the difficult to access places. And they will creep over a small scrapes. Yes they do have to be reapplied yearly.
I know NH Coatings has a spray for new cars in addition to the normal oil based rust preventative spray.
I was thinking that Kentucky weather would be about the same was what we have here since it's roughly the same latitude.
I ordered up a 6 pack of Krown several years ago and spray selected areas when I do the twice yearly summer/winter tire change.
Similar threads
