To rustproof or not to rustproof...

[demarpaint]

The reason I used the Amsoil product was because you can see through it, and it gets into tiny spaces, it creaps. As with any product, touch up is the key. Regular inspection, cleaning and reapplying to weak areas or areas that chipped or got damaged should be addressed.

You're right, salt would have no problems rusting a galvanized unibody.

 

[fdcg27]

Rust in the spot behind the rear wheel wells that you describe is caused by the accumulation of debris.
If this area is carefully flushed clean each time the car is washed, it should not be especially rust prone.
Our '97 Accord, with 172K, has no rust in this area, although our climate (and salt use) is not as severe as yours.

 

[rslifkin]

Demarpaint - It hasn't done badly so far, just a little surface rust around the welds (very minimal) after 12 Long Island winters. The actual unibody isn't rust at all, even where it's just bare metal. However, with all the extra salt in Rochester, and reduced ability to thoroughly wash it, I figure the extra protection won't hurt.

 

[mva]

I have a 1994, 2 door Accord which is the same body style as the 96. It runs great but the body is starting to rust.

My problem areas are around the rear wheel wells and under the trim strips on the doors and rear quarter panel. There are holes punched in the doors and rear quarter, to hold the trim, that are starting to rust.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: rslifkin
Demarpaint - It hasn't done badly so far, just a little surface rust around the welds (very minimal) after 12 Long Island winters. The actual unibody isn't rust at all, even where it's just bare metal. However, with all the extra salt in Rochester, and reduced ability to thoroughly wash it, I figure the extra protection won't hurt.


I agree! Go for it! Anytime a metal surface is coated to protect it from salt, and moisture is a good thing. I've lived on L.I. for just about my entire life. The salt air [depending on where you live], and the occasional bad winter can take their toll. Then if you like to venture upstate NY during the winter that takes its toll as well.

 

[Kestas]

I too say go for it. Go to Krown or some other place that uses wool grease as the rustproofing material.

 

[doitmyself]

What's Krown's policy on used cars? My '05 Caravan (really '04) is just starting a bit of internal rust on the seams at the door bottoms.....that nasty paint bubbling.

It's hard to fathom zero rust on a 14 year old car in southern Michigan. Did the OP inspect those seams?

Finally, at least once here someone said that Rust Chek was not as good as Krown because it turns acidic. Any comments?

I too am considering a rust proofing at this late stage in my vehicle's life.

Kestas, what's needed to cross the bridge or tunnel to Windsor these days?

Best regards!

 

[mechtech2]

oilmaven - You can also elect to manually go over the car and paint suspected underside objects with various sprays or brush on products. Rustoleum is readily available, and is better than decent.

 

[Kestas]

Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Kestas, what's needed to cross the bridge or tunnel to Windsor these days?

$4 and a passport. I crossed just last Thursday.

 

[StevieC]

Krown will do any vehicle no matter the condition but won't guarantee a rust free vehicle unless its less that 2 years old from date of manufacture

 

[VNTS]

I would just get Eastwoods products, get some converter, rust encapsulator and chasis black. Paint the underside of the car with those, then flood the interior panels with heavy duty anitrust or another great product like Fluid Film.

 

[HangerHarley]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
I'd stay far,far away from Zeibart. Krown or Rust Check is the way to go, both Canadian Companies.

South Bend, Indiana does have a Rust Check dealer if anyonw is interested.


A related Rust question with Ziebart, and i am a newbie at rust: What do you do if your car either has rust, or has had metal welded in place where Rust used to be? As in, Floorboards?

A month ago, 2 weeks before i parked my car, some jack censored jacked the car up with the Jacking point as.. you guessed it.. PAST the Frame Rail and DIRECTLY ON/UNDER the FLOORBOARD!!!

There is now a Bulge there by the pedals

, and im surprised it didnt slam through, Particularly with a 3 ton, Caprice-sized circular cup Floor jack. Poor Probe. That was ABUSE!

This Probe will likely be made into a custom car of some sort. That is my plan. Or "Fixed" and Sold. More likely kept.

Besides some quarter-sized spots on the wheel wells that I have been told can be Sanded and painted over, how do i go about getting this Rust Damage dealt with?

Id drive to South Bend.. or do they only "Spray" and dont do any "Rust Repair Work?"

First car im going to keep that happens to have floorboards rusted to where water would get through and I can see the road and stick finger through (I know its unsafe) and needs fixed, in that area. How?

How the rust got there, idk. Only saw it with that bad jacking, during a tire change at a cheap roadside unprofessional tire place. I got lucky. Pretty mad, too.

Please Pardon for inserting this question, and Thank You for the Insight.

 

[StevieC]

On a note of using rubberized undercoating I was told by Krown and have read on various sites that it's not good to do because it actually traps moisture between the coating and the steel and can cause accelerated rust.

The best way is to use a clingy, thick oil such as Krown or Rustcheck that displaces water and lubricates at the same time.

The only problem is you need to apply it a couple years in a row to have a good strong coating and then touch up as needed.

Worth the drive and effort IMO if you are serious about keeping your vehicle for a very long time.

 

[rslifkin]

I would think it wouldn't present a moisture issue, as long as the surface was clean, allowed to sit in a very dry environment for a few hours prior to application, and kept dry until the stuff was cured.

 

[sciphi]

You can get cans of Fluid Film at your local John Deere dealer or online. Cost is about $10 a can. It'll take 5-6 cans to do your Accord with a thick layer. It's wool wax in a can, so it's good stuff.

I did my fiancee's 09 Honda Fit with 4 cans of Fluid Film. I'm getting another 5 cans to do my Buick and touch up her car this fall.

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
On a note of using rubberized undercoating I was told by Krown and have read on various sites that it's not good to do because it actually traps moisture between the coating and the steel and can cause accelerated rust.

The best way is to use a clingy, thick oil such as Krown or Rustcheck that displaces water and lubricates at the same time.

The only problem is you need to apply it a couple years in a row to have a good strong coating and then touch up as needed.

Worth the drive and effort IMO if you are serious about keeping your vehicle for a very long time.

Absolutely Correct StevieC. I had my last newer car Zeibarted and their are cracks and at places where the coating is pealing off, never again. Krown or RustChek is the way to go. Last resort, thin bar & Chain oil mixed with a little roof coating and spray the underside with a garden sprayer. Then spray
inside cavities with Fluid Film. As I said this is the last resort.

The rood coating just makes the oil a little tackier.

 

[rslifkin]

I'm curious what the stuff is that Jeep used on parts of my underbody at the factory. It looks like the stuff you sometimes see on the ceiling of an old concrete parking garage, almost looks fuzzy, but it's hard. It's been on there for 12 years, and isn't cracked or anything.

 

[Kestas]

That's the factory sound deadener. It has short lived rust-proof properties. After a short while it hardens, delaminates, and provides an environment where corrodants get trapped and accelerate corrosion.

Wool grease (Krown) is the way to go. The compound seeps into all the nooks and crannies, including existing rust, stays tacky, and will not harden and delaminate for about 8-10 years. It should ideally be reapplied on a regular basis - no longer than every three years (I spray it thick). Ziebart dries hard and doesn't stay tacky.

 

[rslifkin]

Mine isn't cracked or delaminated at all, which I find impressive. Of course, it's only under the outermost parts of the floorboards. The frame rails and everything between them aren't coated.

Even the bottoms of my doors are rust free. The bottom of the rear hatch is pretty rusty though. But, I've got a new one at the shop being painted, and it should be going on this week.

 

[gomes512]

rslifkin, my '94 has the same stuff. Give yours a few more years and it'll start cracking.

I've been using paraffin wax dissolved in mineral spirits with a touch of Accel straight 30 weight or bar/chain oil.

Spray it on with a electric sprayer, it creeps and leaves behind a perfect oily/waxy coating everywhere. I reapply it once a year.