Best primer for treated plywood outside?

[JHZR2]

One of my garage buildings had tongue and groove bead board as the decking over the rafter tails. Inside of the top plate was cedar shakes on purlins.

I replaced all the decking when I did the roof because some of it started to rot. Treated plywood was used.

So now I want to paint it, and the rafter tails. What’s the best primer to use on new never painted treated ply?

On old wood I use long oil primer but not sure that’s best for this?

 

[Pablo]

Is there a paintable wood treatment? Something with a fungicide?

I recommend Kilz 3 for simplicity and good for a couple coats of top coat I think it has a fungicide,

 

[Boomer]

Is it still moist from treatment? If so, let it dry for a time before putting any coating on it. Talk to someone at a paint store for a recommendation. There are so many specialized paints available now that there should be something that would be a good product for you. Kilz may work but there may be better paints.

 

[Trav]

You may want to look at Tamco DTA, primarily used on metal but also works as well on wood, I have been using it for some time, it is some tough stuff. You can brush it on. Just a thought

Tamco DTA (Direct to Anything) Epoxy Primer can be brushed, though it is primarily engineered to be sprayed. While it will adhere incredibly well to bare wood, you must follow specific prep and application steps to avoid bubbling or lifting.

https://tamcopaint.com/products/dta-epoxy-direct-to-anything?variant=39696909172816

 

[snarl]

ben moore woodluxe solid stain

 

[Rand]

Zinsser Cover-Stain is pretty good and cost effective.
the regular version is oil based although they also have a water based formulas
I have also used Kilz 3 a few times to good effect.
Sorry @Trav $360 a gallon?? seems abit rich for plywood.

 

[Nukeman7]

The best water based acrylic primer I've used is the Glidden "Gripper" primer. Works well to seal up porous surfaces while providing significant "tooth" adhesion for the finish coat(s) of exterior paint.

 

[Astro14]

Anything you would be comfortable using outside will be fine on this.

After it dries.

Pressure treated lumber, including plywood, can be over 50% moisture content. For any kind of paint to work, including primer, it has to be closer to 15%.

Get a moisture meter or wait at least a month.

 

[JHZR2]

Is there a paintable wood treatment? Something with a fungicide?

I recommend Kilz 3 for simplicity and good for a couple coats of top coat I think it has a fungicide,

It’s treated plywood, why would I need to treat it again?

Is it still moist from treatment? If so, let it dry for a time before putting any coating on it. Talk to someone at a paint store for a recommendation. There are so many specialized paints available now that there should be something that would be a good product for you. Kilz may work but there may be better paints.

No, it was put into service a few months ago, and it has been plenty hot the last few weeks.

ben moore woodluxe solid stain

I’m going to paint it when I do the rest of the building. Would you paint over stain? Is that a thing?

Zinsser Cover-Stain is pretty good and cost effective.
the regular version is oil based although they also have a water based formulas
I have also used Kilz 3 a few times to good effect.
Sorry @Trav $360 a gallon?? seems abit rich for plywood.

I think oil based is better?

This is the underside of the roof - exposed decking and rafter tails. Old school building. Doesn’t get wet. Uv would have to be reflected. Probably gets hot with the roof.

The best water based acrylic primer I've used is the Glidden "Gripper" primer. Works well to seal up porous surfaces while providing significant "tooth" adhesion for the finish coat(s) of exterior paint.

I guess one of my fundamental questions is, do I want oil or water based?

Anything you would be comfortable using outside will be fine on this.

After it dries.

Pressure treated lumber, including plywood, can be over 50% moisture content. For any kind of paint to work, including primer, it has to be closer to 15%.

Get a moisture meter or wait at least a month.

It’s been a good deal more than a month.

Since its new wood, that’s why I’m wondering.

You may want to look at Tamco DTA, primarily used on metal but also works as well on wood, I have been using it for some time, it is some tough stuff. You can brush it on. Just a thought


https://tamcopaint.com/products/dta-epoxy-direct-to-anything?variant=39696909172816

Interesting. If I prepped the old rafter tails, it may be good for them too after 100 years in the elements!

 

[Pablo]

It’s treated plywood, why would I need to treat it again?

Same reason it's treated and same reason you want to prime and paint it.

BETTER Rot, mold, decay, insect resistance and paint adhesion.

Treated plywood is OK, but honestly I don't think that great for the above. Plus, not sure what it's treated with - maybe oil soluble copper compound. That said some of the aftermarket treatments are better than others for primer adhesion.

They used to sell little vials of fungicide and insecticide for mixing with a gallon of paint/primer. Probably banned now.

 

[spasm3]

It’s treated plywood, why would I need to treat it again?

I don't think the wood treatments are near as good now. I built a sand box for my son in the late '90s that is still around. I don't think a current treated 2x6 is going to last that long now.

 

[JayhawkRoy]

I have always preferred oil based paint for your type of application. Just seemed to last longer. I also do highest gloss I can find, especially this is a stand alone garage.