I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx and how much is it also how much is ac delco stuff to?
best oil to use in an oil burner?
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OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx and how much is it also how much is ac delco stuff to?
Delco stuff should be around $5.00. It comes in a large aerosol can. I believe I posted a pic of it.
IMHO, AutoRX is a "slow cleaning" product, made of esters. It is no where near as aggressive as many of the other products.
Think of it this way:
If it is safe to run it in your oil (MMO, Seafoam, AutoRX) it is going to be a MILD cleaner.
Things that are harsh solvents are not going to be safe to run at a replacement for 1L of oil in your sump. That is why products like B12 and the AC Delco Combustion Chamber cleaner are designed to be sprayed in, let soak, and then you fire it up. They don't need to be run for a few hundred Km to do anything. Their results are immediate, and you have a lot of it so if you don't feel you got all of what you wanted to remove the first time, it is very easy to do a second (or third) application. I've had the same can of the AC Delco stuff for the past two years. I use it for cleaning throttle bodies, as it works better than carb cleaner.
I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx and how much is it also how much is ac delco stuff to?
Delco stuff should be around $5.00. It comes in a large aerosol can. I believe I posted a pic of it.
IMHO, AutoRX is a "slow cleaning" product, made of esters. It is no where near as aggressive as many of the other products.
Think of it this way:
If it is safe to run it in your oil (MMO, Seafoam, AutoRX) it is going to be a MILD cleaner.
Things that are harsh solvents are not going to be safe to run at a replacement for 1L of oil in your sump. That is why products like B12 and the AC Delco Combustion Chamber cleaner are designed to be sprayed in, let soak, and then you fire it up. They don't need to be run for a few hundred Km to do anything. Their results are immediate, and you have a lot of it so if you don't feel you got all of what you wanted to remove the first time, it is very easy to do a second (or third) application. I've had the same can of the AC Delco stuff for the past two years. I use it for cleaning throttle bodies, as it works better than carb cleaner.
I have experience with this engine. My SC1 went from buring a quart every 800 miles at 100K and advanced to a quart every 250 miles at 200k.
As a last resort to the rebuild I did a parts cleaner piston soak for 5 days - Chem-Dip with Methylene Chloride, the strong one not the California compliant one.
My pistons look clean like this but the car still burned a quart every 250 miles.
Compression was within spec. Ended up doing an in-frame re-ring
As a last resort to the rebuild I did a parts cleaner piston soak for 5 days - Chem-Dip with Methylene Chloride, the strong one not the California compliant one.
My pistons look clean like this but the car still burned a quart every 250 miles.
Compression was within spec. Ended up doing an in-frame re-ring
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Its really too bad. Most cars the body rots away before the engine dies. With the Saturn, the panels are plastic, no rust, no dents, looks great!. But the engine rots away.
Overkill what is your suggestion on the procedure?
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
....
IMHO, AutoRX is a "slow cleaning" product, made of esters. It is no where near as aggressive as many of the other products.
....
True enough, and it's what they say on their website; their point is that through slow cleaning you will not get the "chunks" that can clog oil passages and the junk removed by the slower cleaning process will get caught in the filter.
There's a couple testimonials on the site where people's oil consumption has gone away...at only $24 for a bottle it is probably worth a try, before doing an expensive ring job.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx ... ?
Auto RX Right here.
....
IMHO, AutoRX is a "slow cleaning" product, made of esters. It is no where near as aggressive as many of the other products.
....
True enough, and it's what they say on their website; their point is that through slow cleaning you will not get the "chunks" that can clog oil passages and the junk removed by the slower cleaning process will get caught in the filter.
There's a couple testimonials on the site where people's oil consumption has gone away...at only $24 for a bottle it is probably worth a try, before doing an expensive ring job.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx ... ?
Auto RX Right here.
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had no luck with RX or seafoam. MMO small but something. Kreen in now, can't tell yet.
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Originally Posted By: tgferg67
I have experience with this engine. My SC1 went from buring a quart every 800 miles at 100K and advanced to a quart every 250 miles at 200k.
As a last resort to the rebuild I did a parts cleaner piston soak for 5 days - Chem-Dip with Methylene Chloride, the strong one not the California compliant one.
My pistons look clean like this but the car still burned a quart every 250 miles.
Compression was within spec. Ended up doing an in-frame re-ring
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
I have experience with this engine. My SC1 went from buring a quart every 800 miles at 100K and advanced to a quart every 250 miles at 200k.
As a last resort to the rebuild I did a parts cleaner piston soak for 5 days - Chem-Dip with Methylene Chloride, the strong one not the California compliant one.
My pistons look clean like this but the car still burned a quart every 250 miles.
Compression was within spec. Ended up doing an in-frame re-ring
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
Overkill what is your suggestion on the procedure?
Pull the plugs, spray liberally in all four. Let soak for a few hours. Hand-crank the engine (slowly, you just want to move the pistons) and then re-apply. Let soak for another few hours. Hand crank again a bit, then fire it up.
Overkill what is your suggestion on the procedure?
Pull the plugs, spray liberally in all four. Let soak for a few hours. Hand-crank the engine (slowly, you just want to move the pistons) and then re-apply. Let soak for another few hours. Hand crank again a bit, then fire it up.
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Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
....
IMHO, AutoRX is a "slow cleaning" product, made of esters. It is no where near as aggressive as many of the other products.
....
True enough, and it's what they say on their website; their point is that through slow cleaning you will not get the "chunks" that can clog oil passages and the junk removed by the slower cleaning process will get caught in the filter.
There's a couple testimonials on the site where people's oil consumption has gone away...at only $24 for a bottle it is probably worth a try, before doing an expensive ring job.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx ... ?
Auto RX Right here.
And that would be relevant if we were dealing with sludge or deposits in the engine that we were trying to slowly remove. However, that isn't the case here. It is a specific symptom that stems from low-tension rings and varnish. Even if we remove all the varnish, as indicated by the poster above you, there is no guarantee that the consumption will completely go away. This is the case when the rings lose their tension.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
....
IMHO, AutoRX is a "slow cleaning" product, made of esters. It is no where near as aggressive as many of the other products.
....
True enough, and it's what they say on their website; their point is that through slow cleaning you will not get the "chunks" that can clog oil passages and the junk removed by the slower cleaning process will get caught in the filter.
There's a couple testimonials on the site where people's oil consumption has gone away...at only $24 for a bottle it is probably worth a try, before doing an expensive ring job.
Originally Posted By: chevyboy14
I have heard of that stuff where would I get auto rx ... ?
Auto RX Right here.
And that would be relevant if we were dealing with sludge or deposits in the engine that we were trying to slowly remove. However, that isn't the case here. It is a specific symptom that stems from low-tension rings and varnish. Even if we remove all the varnish, as indicated by the poster above you, there is no guarantee that the consumption will completely go away. This is the case when the rings lose their tension.
JHZR2
Staff member
Id consider trying an HM oil, but if it is a mechanical issue that some seal swell or cleaning cant really fix, then there is little point to the added cost.
So at that point, Id probably look for the latest API spec, lowest Zinc/Phos to protect functionality of your emissions system, and just go from there.
Cleanest burn would be another good thing but I dont know how to easily quantify that.
So at that point, Id probably look for the latest API spec, lowest Zinc/Phos to protect functionality of your emissions system, and just go from there.
Cleanest burn would be another good thing but I dont know how to easily quantify that.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: tgferg67
I have experience with this engine. My SC1 went from buring a quart every 800 miles at 100K and advanced to a quart every 250 miles at 200k.
As a last resort to the rebuild I did a parts cleaner piston soak for 5 days - Chem-Dip with Methylene Chloride, the strong one not the California compliant one.
My pistons look clean like this but the car still burned a quart every 250 miles.
Compression was within spec. Ended up doing an in-frame re-ring
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
Well if you believe everything you read here on BITOG, there has to be some miracle in a can that will re-tension the rings...
Originally Posted By: tgferg67
I have experience with this engine. My SC1 went from buring a quart every 800 miles at 100K and advanced to a quart every 250 miles at 200k.
As a last resort to the rebuild I did a parts cleaner piston soak for 5 days - Chem-Dip with Methylene Chloride, the strong one not the California compliant one.
My pistons look clean like this but the car still burned a quart every 250 miles.
Compression was within spec. Ended up doing an in-frame re-ring
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
Well if you believe everything you read here on BITOG, there has to be some miracle in a can that will re-tension the rings...
Are we sure the valve guides and valve seals are ok
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Originally Posted By: vssjim
Are we sure the valve guides and valve seals are ok
This engine is VERY well known for oil control ring issues.
Are we sure the valve guides and valve seals are ok
This engine is VERY well known for oil control ring issues.
This thread still going? This worn out Saturn has gotten more attention than Mr. Haas's Ferrari.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
After the parts cleaner piston soak, how they came out of the engine
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
After the parts cleaner piston soak, how they came out of the engine
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OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: tgferg67
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
After the parts cleaner soak
Did you take any from before? Boy, you can really see the varnish in those ring lands
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
From your picture, the oil rings appear to have lost basically all their tension. What did the lands look like when you removed the rings? There appears to be a small skim of varnish on the sides of the piston and in the ring area, is this pic before or after the parts cleaner soak?
After the parts cleaner soak
Did you take any from before? Boy, you can really see the varnish in those ring lands
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Did you take any from before? Boy, you can really see the varnish in those ring lands
No pictures before because the parts cleaner soak was a piston soak - the engine was still in service. It was a last resort to a re-ring.
Did you take any from before? Boy, you can really see the varnish in those ring lands
No pictures before because the parts cleaner soak was a piston soak - the engine was still in service. It was a last resort to a re-ring.
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Originally Posted By: tgferg67
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Did you take any from before? Boy, you can really see the varnish in those ring lands
No pictures before because the parts cleaner soak was a piston soak - the engine was still in service. It was a last resort to a re-ring.
Fair enough. I can't imagine how bad they looked before the solvent, LOL!!!! I'm glad you posted those pics though, because even cleaned up, they still illustrate what I explained earlier about where the varnish forms.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Did you take any from before? Boy, you can really see the varnish in those ring lands
No pictures before because the parts cleaner soak was a piston soak - the engine was still in service. It was a last resort to a re-ring.
Fair enough. I can't imagine how bad they looked before the solvent, LOL!!!! I'm glad you posted those pics though, because even cleaned up, they still illustrate what I explained earlier about where the varnish forms.
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