Best oil for my needs

Pennzoil motor oil
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EvoX11

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Mar 8, 2012
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Location
South Carolina
First of all, thank you very much for people pay out of their own pockets to get their oil, virgin or not, analysed and post results here. It is super helpful.

I drive 2011 Mitsubishi Evolution X that is turbo ed from the factory with all the bolt ons and a tune, pushing a little over 400hp at the crank and has 16,xxx miles.

I reside in Charleston, SC where it gets quite hot and humid during summer. Out of 12 months it only gets cold about 2 months.

For now she is my daily car and I just started autocrossing. Also, she will be taken to the Dragons Tail every year.

Oil that is recommended from factory is 5w30 Mobil 1 syn and needs to be changed every 5k miles. I however, switched to Amsoil %100 synthetic 5w30 after 1k break in miles.

I am thinking about changing the oil every 3k miles since I will be autocrossing her. According to the oil analysis that was posted on Virgin Oil Analysis section amsoil is pretty good oil but it will never hurt to have that extra protection.

I have redline 5w30 in mind but I dont know if it will be too thick? What would you guys recommended?
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Do you have an oil temp gauge?


No. However, I was thinking about getting oil pressure gauge soon tho.
 
You ought to have a pressure gauge, it will show, among other things, if you have oil starvation in hard cornering. S&W sells senders which also have a switch terminal for the oil light switch so you don't need a "T" I had a "T" on a Volvo I autocrossed...the "T" broke. Oil everywhere. At lease it broke outside of the block tap.
 
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Originally Posted By: HerrStig
You ought to have a pressure gauge, it will show, among other things, if you have oil starvation in hard cornering. S&W sells senders which also have a switch terminal for the oil light switch so you don't need a "T" I had a "T" on a Volvo I autocrossed...the "T" broke. Oil everywhere. At lease it broke outside of the block tap.


That sux. I will be getting one of those electronic gauges where I can read the peak values after an autocross run. So, I dont think I will have that "T" issue because electronic gauges do come with appropriate senders. Thanks for the heads up tho!
 
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
You ought to have a pressure gauge, it will show, among other things, if you have oil starvation in hard cornering. S&W sells senders which also have a switch terminal for the oil light switch so you don't need a "T" I had a "T" on a Volvo I autocrossed...the "T" broke. Oil everywhere. At lease it broke outside of the block tap.

Good advice and an OP gauge will tell you IF you need to use a heavier than spec' oil and under what conditions. Oil temp's don't usually have time to get high for your type of use so I'd stick with the spec' oil viscosity to start with.
The Amsoil you're running now is good stuff; very shear resistant. If you what to try Red Line, you're right their 5w30 is too thick (HTHSV of 3.8cP) but their 0w30 would be good as it's viscosity is more in line with what your running now plus it will be lighter on start-up due to it's higher 183 VI.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
You ought to have a pressure gauge, it will show, among other things, if you have oil starvation in hard cornering. S&W sells senders which also have a switch terminal for the oil light switch so you don't need a "T" I had a "T" on a Volvo I autocrossed...the "T" broke. Oil everywhere. At lease it broke outside of the block tap.

Good advice and an OP gauge will tell you IF you need to use a heavier than spec' oil and under what conditions. Oil temp's don't usually have time to get high for your type of use so I'd stick with the spec' oil viscosity to start with.
The Amsoil you're running now is good stuff; very shear resistant. If you what to try Red Line, you're right their 5w30 is too thick (HTHSV of 3.8cP) but their 0w30 would be good as it's viscosity is more in line with what your running now plus it will be lighter on start-up due to it's higher 183 VI.


OP gauge is going to be the very next mod I will be buying.

Should I just stick with amsoil 5w30 until I get oil press gauge? Or should I switch to 0w30 red line since I have nothing to lose but start up protection to gain.

And drop the oil change interval to 3k right?
 
I wouldn't change out the Amsoil prematurely.
If you get the OP gauge installed before the next oil change is due then first see what you're OP readings are like. If as I suspect, the Amsoil is more than heavy enough, you might want to go for Red Line 0W-20 instead. It's really a light 0w30 with the only difference to Red Line's 0w30 is the lack of VIIs that Red Line 0w30 contains just a pinch of.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I wouldn't change out the Amsoil prematurely.
If you get the OP gauge installed before the next oil change is due then first see what you're OP readings are like. If as I suspect, the Amsoil is more than heavy enough, you might want to go for Red Line 0W-20 instead. It's really a light 0w30 with the only difference to Red Line's 0w30 is the lack of VIIs that Red Line 0w30 contains just a pinch of.


I am checking out the OP gauges as we speak. Can you educate me on how to read oil pressure gauge? I mean what is the optimal value? And what will be the value for thick oil?
 
I wouldn't deviate from a 5w30 until the car is long out of warranty.

The AMSOIL is a nice upgrade from M1 IMHO: why not just do a couple 5K intervals, an oil analysis or two, then try the RL and retest if you feel you must?

The 0W-anything does not make any sense to me while you are still under warranty...

Cheers!
 
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I got my oil pressure gauge installed.

Values are:

12-15 psi idle (after car is fully warmed up)
79 psi during cruise

And I have 3k miles on this oil with 3+ autocrosses. Should switch to 10w30?
 
I would not just change the Amsoil to another brand for the sake of changing unless you want to of course. I would follow Norm Olt's suggestion, this is the only course of action that we can make a recommendation with some data along with your oil pressure readings, then some of our more knowledgeable member's can make a educated suggestion.
 
Originally Posted By: EvoX11
I got my oil pressure gauge installed.

Values are:

12-15 psi idle (after car is fully warmed up)
79 psi during cruise

And I have 3k miles on this oil with 3+ autocrosses. Should switch to 10w30?

What RPM that you are seeing 79 PSI ? If it is less than 6000 RPM then you have too high oil pressure.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: EvoX11
I got my oil pressure gauge installed.

Values are:

12-15 psi idle (after car is fully warmed up)
79 psi during cruise

And I have 3k miles on this oil with 3+ autocrosses. Should switch to 10w30?

What RPM that you are seeing 79 PSI ? If it is less than 6000 RPM then you have too high oil pressure.


Between 3000-4000 rpm crusing between 70-80mph
 
Not sure why people are staying to stick with 5w30 while the car is under warranty since the mods will probably affect the warranty more than oil selection, IMO. I would go with a more robust oil than regular 5w30 Amsoil.

For a 5w30 Amsoil, I would probably go with the HDD 5w30. Check out this HDD uoa from a WRX. For the "regular" Amsoils, I would probably go with ATM 10w30 (lower NOACK volatility than the 5w30) and possibly even boost the Anti-Wear package with a bottle or two of some Dominator RD30.

Red Line 5w30 would probably be a good choice as well.

-Dennis
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Not sure why people are staying to stick with 5w30 while the car is under warranty since the mods will probably affect the warranty more than oil selection, IMO. I would go with a more robust oil than regular 5w30 Amsoil.

For a 5w30 Amsoil, I would probably go with the HDD 5w30. Check out this HDD uoa from a WRX. For the "regular" Amsoils, I would probably go with ATM 10w30 (lower NOACK volatility than the 5w30) and possibly even boost the Anti-Wear package with a bottle or two of some Dominator RD30.

Red Line 5w30 would probably be a good choice as well.

-Dennis


That is correct. However my dealer is super nice with mods. At the same time I dont mind switch to 10w30 or any other oil that is going to provide my engine better protection.

What does HDD stands for Heavy-Duty Diesel?
 
Yes.
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
Although the API recommendation is the older SL because of the high anti-wear levels so I don't know if that's a problem for your dealer. Most Subaru turbo guys here run more robust oils. Euro oils (30 and 40 grades), mixed fleet gas/diesel oils. I believe there are a couple of old modified EVO used oil analysis here. Some on Mobil 1 0W-40.

-Dennis
 
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