Best oil for HyperMiling

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I have no vested interests in Schaeffer - if it's hype, then let it be exposed!

(gotta be off-line for a while - back on later for the thrilling conclusion)
 
ALL oil companies engage in marketing and Schaeffers is a good oil.
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Meanwhile, are ZDDP, Boron, and Calcium there when the oil is not - ie, do they plate (and remain).

Yes, and you may want to start reading some of Molakule's articles and those on the net.

"Dry" start is a bit of a misnomer as the bearings don't magically empty themselves of oil upon shut down. Plenty of reading on this site about this very complex topic.
 
Micron moly adheres to metal I do not think that zddp, boron, and calcium do. When combined with penetro this creates an additvie package noone else has.
 
Originally Posted By: salesrep
Micron moly adheres to metal I do not think that zddp, boron, and calcium do. When combined with penetro this creates an additvie package noone else has.


I remember in the 90's when Mobil was advertising that the esters they used in their oil bonded to the metal to prevent metal on metal during starts......
 
I'll probably get blown out of the water here - but my understanding of the "traditional" AW additives is that they do their magic basically at the last minute (at the last microsecond actually) - just before metal to metal contact occurs. That is, there is some chemical reaction that occurs in very high heat/pressure (eg, that happens after an oil has sheared out due to pressure) and this chemical reaction creates some creature with great AW properties. So these AWs are just for last ditch scenarios where otherwise you'd have metal/metal contact. But I can't remember (and I can't find - I've been looking the last few minutes) if this encompasses all the other AWs listed above - Zinc, Boron, Calcium, etc. The only one that I KNOW I've read that does create a plating that remains is the Micron Moly (SalesRep says this is NOT Schaeffer hype - but he is SalesRep you know :). But does the moly in Mobil 1 also form these "permanent" AF plates? I would think they would. But since Schaeffers has made this a lynchpin of their oil (not THE lynchpin but one of them) - then perhaps Schaeffer's technology in the use of a AF (MM) for true dead cold start applications trumps M1, et al.
 
Interesting Overkill - now I'll have to start looking at the ester side of the equation (but that also brings up the black box of who as how much ester - that's one of those formulation things that most companies won't give a straight answer on).
 
If you're looking for an oil that will protect the engine better during the initial startup cycle, then go with a 0w20 or 5w20, either of which will be much thinner on startup than a 5w30.

And if you don't feel comfortable going with an Xw20 oil (or need to use 5w30 for the warranty) then you should look at the specs of all the available 5w30s and choose the one with a low viscosity at 40c. (or the one with the best cold cranking numbers)
 
I'm one step ahead of you - I now have PP 5w20 in my Sienna's 151k mile engine. But I have a local Schaeffer retail that I can score some Sch. 5w20 from. I haven't started any of these gas saving techniques with the Sienna yet (and won't be doing the more agressive HypM w/ it) - but so far the 5w20 is giving me significantly less mileage than the xxW30s I've used and even my recent use of Schaeffer 15w40 (on a 150 mile hiway test (short trip so could be error) the 15w40 got me my highest mileage ever in this van).
 
I would think that Nero's OWO would be a good thing to try. I also think Synergens 3W30LTS would be a good choice.
 
Just do a UOA after the begining of the "start-n-go" technique and if there is no wear, no problem.
 
Originally Posted By: odessit
You could use Pre-Oiler to build oil pressure before engine starts. Theoretically it will minimize engine wear. Amsoil sells them.


The Toyota/Lexus HSD cars pre-oil themselves as an inherent part of the design. When the ICE is off, and the computer decides to turn it on, MG1 (the smaller of the two motor-generators) runs the ICE up to about 1k rpms before it gets any fuel or spark. The effect is that you get full oil pressure before the engine gets any resistance to work against.

Don't look for the ideal oil for hypermiling -- look for the ideal car!
wink.gif
 
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