Best Gas & Diesel Oil????

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
As well, your consumption may be an issue of poor ring/wall fit. I had an issue with my older Vulcan v-6 due to an overheating event. I found my rings badly coked. After an ARX treatment, the rings were liberated and the compression (and ring sealing) were massively enhanced. Have you considered an ARX treatment or two to see if this "need heavy oil" issue can be resolved?

I am guessing that the most likely reason for the oil consumption in my case is the valve-stem oil seals. I can replace them without removing the cylinder head but it's a repair that I've never done and there is some risk that the valves can fall into the engine. I've adjusted the valves many times in the past but have never removed the rocker arm and valve springs. 1 qt / 1000 miles consumption is manageable for me and the car passes the California dyno emission tests; so, I probably won't get myself into this repair at the moment.
 
I am guessing that the most likely reason for the oil consumption in my case is the valve-stem oil seals. I can replace them without removing the cylinder head but it's a repair that I've never done and there is some risk that the valves can fall into the engine. I've adjusted the valves many times in the past but have never removed the rocker arm and valve springs. 1 qt / 1000 miles consumption is manageable for me and the car passes the California dyno emission tests; so, I probably won't get myself into this repair at the moment.

You can change valve springs or the guides (I think) with a simple tool that pressurizes the cylinders and holds the valves closed. but you MUST have a RELIABLE source of compressed air.

You can also feed a piece of rope into the cylinder and then rotate the engine until the piston compresses on the rope to hold the valves in place while you do whatever it is you have to do. I don't know what is entaled in replacing the valve seals on you're Toyota.

I just replaced all my valve springs using the compressed air method. It was quite simple however I had access to a shop at the time and a reliable source of compressed air.
 
Even valve stem seals might be helped by ARX. It is a slow methodical cleaner that removes the byproducts of combustion and the associated hardening of seals. It can NOT repair physical damage, though.

My only point is that it's a LOT easier and a LOT cheaper to try ARX for a few OCI cycles, BEFORE you dive deeper. If it does not help, you're really not out that much in the way of money or time.
 
Originally Posted By: Trvlr500
You can change valve springs or the guides (I think) with a simple tool that pressurizes the cylinders and holds the valves closed. but you MUST have a RELIABLE source of compressed air.

You can also feed a piece of rope into the cylinder and then rotate the engine until the piston compresses on the rope to hold the valves in place while you do whatever it is you have to do. I don't know what is entaled in replacing the valve seals on you're Toyota.

I just replaced all my valve springs using the compressed air method. It was quite simple however I had access to a shop at the time and a reliable source of compressed air.

Yes, I have the Haynes manual, which gives detailed instructions for both the compressed-air and nylon-rope methods. I also have the official Toyota Repair manual, which gives all the canonical procedures and specifications.

It's tempting. Perhaps I will try it in the fall.

Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Even valve stem seals might be helped by ARX. It is a slow methodical cleaner that removes the byproducts of combustion and the associated hardening of seals. It can NOT repair physical damage, though.

My only point is that it's a LOT easier and a LOT cheaper to try ARX for a few OCI cycles, BEFORE you dive deeper. If it does not help, you're really not out that much in the way of money or time.

How safe is Auto Rx? Could it do possible harm?
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Even valve stem seals might be helped by ARX. It is a slow methodical cleaner that removes the byproducts of combustion and the associated hardening of seals. It can NOT repair physical damage, though.

My only point is that it's a LOT easier and a LOT cheaper to try ARX for a few OCI cycles, BEFORE you dive deeper. If it does not help, you're really not out that much in the way of money or time.

Well, today I did the dreaded repair of valve-stem-seal replacement. The rope method worked very well and the OEM-brand valve-spring compressor sold at Pep Boys and Autozone worked very well as well. The most difficult part was removing the old seals but I got a hang of prying on them.

As typical, when you have never done a repair, the least expected gives you the worst headache. In my case it was removing the old seals. I also ended up damaging one of the eight new seals when tapping it; so, I have to replace that one again next weekend, even though I super-glued it (Viton stem seal was separated from the metal cup), I suspect some oil seep.

The results were very satisfactory. I can hear that the car is not using noticeable amount of oil anymore (no more chatter due to oil burning after cold starts, after freeway driving, or after the car has been parked for a few minutes). Overall this was a very difficult repair though, particularly because I had never done it before. I was completely drained at the end.

I might post somewhere about the detailed procedure and will update on the oil consumption (which I expect to be very little from now on).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top