Best entry level riding mower

[glock19]

Originally Posted by Black_Thunder

I myself bought a new S240 John Deere last year. I made a compromise between the e-series and the x-series. I wanted a mower better then the e-series but I didn't want the briggs engine that the x330 has the S240 has the Kawasaki v-twin engine which is highly reliable. and it was in my price range. I looked at a few other brands like the Husqvarna and cub cadets and even simplicity but what sold me on the John deere other then the engine was the pedal setup, the other mowers seemed to have the same cheaply designed pedal system that I just didn't care for.

I tried to buy a used riding mower but everything in my area was box store machines, completely beat and worn out, and still asking a couple hundred bucks. I ended up buying a S240 also. It checked all of the boxes: Kawasaki engine, grease zerks, pedal layout, and a great local dealer. I think the biggest reason to buy a John Deere is the dealer network. A small riding mower is pretty easy to service at home, but it's nice to be able to get parts easily/locally.

 

[ragtoplvr]

A classic rear engine snapper will last many years, and require very little maintenance. That said, they do not turn sharply. Rod

 

[UncleDave]

Thing is guys seem to be happy with their cub cadet products, and In trying to find out where the corners are being cut and not getting much detail Stamped deck - got it Rollers or not on the mowing deck Real vs fake hydrostatic - got that. But what entry level has what combination of things? Zaedock mentioned Murray - grandad had one of those for the "small" yard and got like 20 years out of it. UD

 

[Fattylocks]

I always used junk mowers except for a 6.5 hp Craftsman push that I got 13 years out of. Was running fine,it stayed behind when I sold my house, buying wanted it. Last summer I bought a Deere X370. The honeymoon was short lived. Sold it with 40 hours on it. Scary on the steeps and really didn't cut all that well. Back to junky push mowers. Takes me 2 hours and 45 minutes to mow on a good day. Not counting string trim, prune and blowing. Next up will be a commercial grade stander or hydro walk behind. Actively looking for one, anything with low hours goes fast.

 

[UncleDave]

Would you guys agree with this small engine ranking.. Kubota Diesel -GAS- Kawasaki - tied w genuine Honda Kohler Briggs House brands ie cub cadet engine, DR engine, etcetera - which are typically briggs copies. UD

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by ragtoplvr

A classic rear engine snapper will last many years, and require very little maintenance. That said, they do not turn sharply. Rod

Will that cut through thicker brush without killing the friction clutch disk they use? This is attractive as one of them even folds up against a wall but the new ones don't seem to have rollers on the deck and I hear they scalp the lawn.

 

[4WD]

I had a 30" single blade rear engine … yes it scalped where the yard was not level. My 42" roller deck does not.

 

[UncleDave]

Heres the terrain - really 3 diff types. UD

 

[ragtoplvr]

[/quote] Will that cut through thicker brush without killing the friction clutch disk they use? This is attractive as one of them even folds up against a wall but the new ones don't seem to have rollers on the deck and I hear they scalp the lawn. [/quote] In over 20 years I put on one friction clutch That said I did keep things adjusted and blade sharp. One belt, many blades, new rear tires old ones wore out. Not a good ditch mower as narrow wheelbase, would tip. Would mow some taller grass, not brushhogging or pasture mowing. I would keep it on highest setting for Fescue. No scalping after a while, high spots wore down. Rod

 

[nascarnation]

Originally Posted by MCompact

Originally Posted by nascarnation

My experience with Deere is that they are like a BMW.... Great name, good performance, lousy reliability, and parts prices that make you think they should be gold plated.

I'm sorry to hear of your bad luck with both brands. What BMW and what John Deere mower treated you so badly?

I've never owned a BMW but they are legendary (like Porsche) for wallet busting maintenance costs. My JD is a 345 with the water cooled Kawasaki and a 48in deck. I thought I was moving up from a WheelHorse 520H but the green paint is mostly a mystique in my opinion. The only saving grace is that I bought it used at a great price with less than 50 hours. Owned by an old guy who had to sell his house and go into assisted living. He actually started crying when we rolled it on the trailer....it was kind of an awkward moment.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by nascarnation

Originally Posted by MCompact

Originally Posted by nascarnation

My experience with Deere is that they are like a BMW.... Great name, good performance, lousy reliability, and parts prices that make you think they should be gold plated.

I'm sorry to hear of your bad luck with both brands. What BMW and what John Deere mower treated you so badly?

I've never owned a BMW but they are legendary (like Porsche) for wallet busting maintenance costs. My JD is a 345 with the water cooled Kawasaki and a 48in deck. I thought I was moving up from a WheelHorse 520H but the green paint is mostly a mystique in my opinion. The only saving grace is that I bought it used at a great price with less than 50 hours. Owned by an old guy who had to sell his house and go into assisted living. He actually started crying when we rolled it on the trailer....it was kind of an awkward moment.

What were your problems centered on the engine, trans, chassis, Mower drive setup (belts etcetera) ? UD

 

[MCompact]

Originally Posted by nascarnation

I've never owned a BMW but they are legendary (like Porsche) for wallet busting maintenance costs. My JD is a 345 with the water cooled Kawasaki and a 48in deck. I thought I was moving up from a WheelHorse 520H but the green paint is mostly a mystique in my opinion. The only saving grace is that I bought it used at a great price with less than 50 hours. Owned by an old guy who had to sell his house and go into assisted living. He actually started crying when we rolled it on the trailer....it was kind of an awkward moment.

You'll get no argument from me- I'm on my third Chapter 7. Might get to retire when I'm 80.

 

[IndyIan]

If your back is in good shape I don't see a problem with the cheaper smaller mowers. Cutting grass doesn't require that much technology. The biggest problem I've had with my very used $300 craftsman HST is tubing the very old tires and I should change the trans fluid one of these years. I also need to buy a solenoid but starting it with a screw driver is kind of fun too. How many hours a year are you going to be on it? 1.5 hours a week? For your yard I think I'd get the a smaller HST mower, keep the top of the trans free of grass and you'll get lots of years out of it.

 

[tundraotto]

as has been discussed - BEST - is so subjective it almost is not. I myself picked the highest 'level' wheelmotors and engine for the price....and then went on from there. then once you pick a deck you can live with - you can calculate value for money....with all the other add-on crap. Wheelmotors are what will fail first - get serviceable ones - or calculate that into the cost.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by tundraotto

as has been discussed - BEST - is so subjective it almost is not. I myself picked the highest 'level' wheelmotors and engine for the price....and then went on from there. then once you pick a deck you can live with - you can calculate value for money....with all the other add-on crap. Wheelmotors are what will fail first - get serviceable ones - or calculate that into the cost.

Fitting - " Can anyone that can help me discern the various plusses and minuses of entry level riding mowers" on the post header is kind of hard. What do you mean by "wheelmotor" Im unfamiliar with that term. UD

 

[UncleDave]

Ok looked it that up, part of a hydrostatic trans. Im unsure how I figure out who is using the various levels of wheel motors and how easy they may or may not be to service..? UD

 

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted by UncleDave

Ok looked it that up, part of a hydrostatic trans. Im unsure how I figure out who is using the various levels of wheel motors and how easy they may or may not be to service..? UD

The cheaper ones and even up to maybe $3k won't have a drain plug on the HST or external filter, they do have a fill plug though, so you can pull the trans and flip it over and drain it that way. Lots of youtube videos on how to do that so you can see if its something you want to do.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted by IndyIan

Originally Posted by UncleDave

Ok looked it that up, part of a hydrostatic trans. Im unsure how I figure out who is using the various levels of wheel motors and how easy they may or may not be to service..? UD

The cheaper ones and even up to maybe $3k won't have a drain plug on the HST or external filter, they do have a fill plug though, so you can pull the trans and flip it over and drain it that way. Lots of youtube videos on how to do that so you can see if its something you want to do.

Good tip- thanks. If I could get to it with a mityvac I may be ok. UD

 

[IndyIan]

Originally Posted by UncleDave

Originally Posted by IndyIan

Originally Posted by UncleDave

Ok looked it that up, part of a hydrostatic trans. Im unsure how I figure out who is using the various levels of wheel motors and how easy they may or may not be to service..? UD

The cheaper ones and even up to maybe $3k won't have a drain plug on the HST or external filter, they do have a fill plug though, so you can pull the trans and flip it over and drain it that way. Lots of youtube videos on how to do that so you can see if its something you want to do.

Good tip- thanks. If I could get to it with a mityvac I may be ok. UD

That's a good idea, I'll have to look at my mower tomorrow and see if I can get at the fill plug, might have to get the hole saw out and cut some access holes. Might only be able to get out 1/2 a quart at a time, but removing and adding a half quart a few times gets much better fluid in there.

 

[Lubener]

Originally Posted by 4WD

My 42" Sears Craftsman (Husky) lawn tractor required a battery and starter solenoid (cheap/easy) in 8 years so far. I got a short turn model that has a wider cast iron front axle with lots of grease fittings. Has a 19 HP Briggs that has been stellar.

That's all I have owned, never had any major problems with the three I use, including my oldest Craftsman garden tractor made by Roper. Still have and use it since I bought it in the early 80's. No hydrostatic trans on any. I would take a "manual" anyday of the week.