I’ve actually installed a set of Toyota service pads “dry” - no lube on the ears. I did apply a thin film of Permatex Silicone Extreme to the underside of the abutment clips. Else, it was Molykote AS-880N between the shims and pad backing plate and Toyota Rubber Grease on the slide pins. The red Toyota grease is a glycol-based grease, think Sil-Glyde in consistency, but with a different base oil vs. Sil-Glyde’s castor oil base.
Best brake pad grease for rustbelt.
- Thread starter Fordiesel69
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I noticed this too. Additionally, he applies lube UNDER the pad retainer instead of over it.
Thats right, he does
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- Aug 21, 2020
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I had terrible luck with Permatex Purple on the slide pins, but like you, it has worked great for the rest of the brake hardware.
For the slide pins, I've had great success with 3M Silicone Paste or CRC Silaramic
The correct way to do this is to put the lube under the sliding clips. Don't put any grease in the pad ears.
Come on, the flat rate way of doing brakes is to make sure there is a centimeter-thick layer of grease on the ears, abutment clips and the ENTIRE pad backing plate. That way, if the brake job comes back for noise, you can tell your service manager that you did all that could have been done!
I don’t apply grease to pad ears but instead a thin coat to the area where they slide on. My rationale is that as the pads wear, they will slowly move on the slide, that thin coat of grease will prevent rust buildup, therefore binding.
If you apply grease only to the pad ears, they may still bind because of rust on the slides.
The grease is there as rust proofing, not to reduce friction.
For stainless steel shims, I apply grease the side that meets the bracket, so that rust doesn’t lift them up and cause binding this way. I don’t grease the shims on the pad side.
Edit:
By grease a mean copper antiseize or some other high temp grease that resists water wash off.
If you apply grease only to the pad ears, they may still bind because of rust on the slides.
The grease is there as rust proofing, not to reduce friction.
For stainless steel shims, I apply grease the side that meets the bracket, so that rust doesn’t lift them up and cause binding this way. I don’t grease the shims on the pad side.
Edit:
By grease a mean copper antiseize or some other high temp grease that resists water wash off.
By the time that happens, the "channel" is packed full of grit/dirt from the grease. Someone had the same idea on my wife's car - they painted a light coat of M77 on the abutment clips. The pads wore cockeyed as a result of the nasty mess.
Never had that happen to me, probably because I use very little. If you just slobber it there, then I can see it happening. It's a rust belt problem though. In a climate like CA, there is absolutley no need for any grease there.
It's a mitsubishi under the bodywork, the hubs are generally rust free on these until they go to the scrappers.
Perhaps it depends on the manufacturer or maybe the metal quality of the hardware, but my old Mazda3 saw 11 Canadian winters and had original calipers, brackets and pins. The only annual maintenance I did was lube the caliper pins because they were partially exposed. The only extra lubing I did, as I described in my earlier post, was during pad change.
It was a Japanese made model, so perhaps the brackets had better metallurgy, but that is doubtful.
True, most of my hardware is reman quality, as these days hardware costs about the same as a reman caliper. I dont expect them to give me OE level standards regardless of the marketing
I’m in the rust belt. I use nothing on the metal slides. Because being in the rust belt, that means sand. Sand loves sticking to grease. And once the sand and brake dust sticks to the grease, the pads are frozen in place. Jammed to the rotor. The slides are stainless. The ears drop a little rust but not enough to hamper movement.
Let me explain my issue in greater detail.
I remove the caliper hangers, and remove the hardware and clips. I wire wheel the slots, file them out by hand and apply grease under the clips and in the slides. I also hand file the pad ears so they fit in without binding. Aftermarket pads often fit too tight and will seize up. My hand file job makes them nice and smooth. However the chinese coating that is supposed to keep the pad from rusting is no longer present.
I remove the caliper hangers, and remove the hardware and clips. I wire wheel the slots, file them out by hand and apply grease under the clips and in the slides. I also hand file the pad ears so they fit in without binding. Aftermarket pads often fit too tight and will seize up. My hand file job makes them nice and smooth. However the chinese coating that is supposed to keep the pad from rusting is no longer present.
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I think you may have just answered your problem. Filing down the ears is going to expose the metal to the elements. Shouldn’t have to touch them to fit. If you insist, maybe spray some high temp paint to cover the exposed ears.
That seems to change every quarter
This. Whatever his "not a sponsor Napa" guy drops off. Stuff will works but you'll be buying everything if you are trying to keep up.
