Somewhat yes but still a 20-grade. The only real way to counter fuel dilution is with viscosity. Fiddling around within the same grade is only of minor help.
Best 0w20 to resist fuel dilution in Honda 1.5 TGDI engine? And use in Honda J35 V6s?
- Thread starter scotty.honda.dog
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What compression ratio is considered to be high?
My GDI/Turbo Golf in sig. has 9.6:1 ratio.
My Mazda SkyActiv 2.5 is 13:1. The newer Toyota engines with similar technology are up there as well.
Quite the higher than mine. Wonder if there are any advantages to it but also some negatives.
Personally I would run a 0w30 and no more than 5k mile changes. We ran 20 weight in my wife's 1.5l t Civic and even at 5k intervals it reeked of fuel when I changed it, not short tripped, 30 mile commutes.
Whatever you decide, change it often and it will last
Whatever you decide, change it often and it will last
Toyota's 2.5L 4-cylinder can run up to 14:1 compression. But it's based on the Atkinson Cycle that can run by hanging a valve open to drop the compression as needed. So it rarely actually runs at 14:1.
OVERKILL
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Yes, that's traditionally been the case. For example, my 6.4L is 10.9:1, and calls for a minimum of 91. It pings BADLY on regular (I got a tank at a station that was supposed to be 91 and had to dilute it with 94 to get the pinging to stop). It is of course port-injected.
DI engines, because they can control when and how much fuel they deliver directly into the cylinder, can tolerate much higher compression ratios for the same octane, but the side effect of that is fuel dilution, using more enrichment to control knock.
OVERKILL
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9.6:1 for a port injected engine with forced induction would be considered high. The 6.2L HEMI has 9.5:1 and that's "high", requiring 91 at minimum.
The '03/'04 Cobra was 8.5:1, The same period F-150 Lightning was 8.4:1...etc.
My OM says it's ok to use 87 but for higher performance use 91. Also I live in 4,700 feet elevation and frequently drive up to 8,000 and I read one time that is better to use gas with lower octane at such elevation.
OVERKILL
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Yeah, but you have DI, which is why they can get away with allowing 87.
I just changed the oil on my pre-loved '15 Fit (no turbo) to get the dealer swill out and the gas smell from the pan was overwhelming. OCI was 200 miles. So, I bought M1 ESP 0W-30 to thicken things up. Though the drained oil was alarmingly diluted, the oil felt surprisingly viscous. I don't know what they put in. I'm starting to think I bought a lemon, but for a 1.5L they go great and gas mileage is amazing at 43 MPG... at a cost.
The shorter O.C.s for the D.I. and G.D.I. defeat the purpose of savings for gas mileage 
. The 1st and 2nd generation FITs have the E.F.I. allowing longer oil intervals helping to save some 
. Average interval for the '13 FIT is around 7,600 miles . We passed on the 3rd generation due to fuel dilution and other issues . Shame , test drove and got 43 m.p.g.. Like the versatility . The flip up seats ( magic seats ) allow taller items to be placed in it . Have the 2nd generation .
. The 1st and 2nd generation FITs have the E.F.I. allowing longer oil intervals helping to save some . Average interval for the '13 FIT is around 7,600 miles . We passed on the 3rd generation due to fuel dilution and other issues . Shame , test drove and got 43 m.p.g.. Like the versatility . The flip up seats ( magic seats ) allow taller items to be placed in it . Have the 2nd generation .
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Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 or Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. The thicker oil, when the fuel thins it out won’t be a 10 weight.
The low tension piston rings are partly due to that too.
https://www.motorbiscuit.com/8-common-2013-2017-9th-gen-honda-accord-problems-100000-miles/
CleanSump
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Anyone can tell you to run a 30 weight oil, but they aren't going to pay your repair bills when Honda denies your warranty claim.
That's been beat to death and I've posted the owner's manuals several times. There is no SAE 30 recommended nor authorized by Honda in the USA for these vehicles.
OH, and "chances are nothing will happen" can be countered with a "what if it does and you blew your warranty?"
That's been beat to death and I've posted the owner's manuals several times. There is no SAE 30 recommended nor authorized by Honda in the USA for these vehicles.
OH, and "chances are nothing will happen" can be countered with a "what if it does and you blew your warranty?"
So you're saying Honda uses different engines in other markets? The 1.5 DI Turbo in Europe has looser tolerances than the one in the US?
M1 0w-40 works well in my Mazda for winter.
Maybe I missed it, but is there a specific statement that says the warranty will be void if a viscosity beside the "recommended" (not "required" or "demanded") is used? If so, got a snip-it of that OM statement?
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