Simply put, the best "0W-20" to resist fuel dilution is 0W-40.... Changed frequently.
Referring to the pilot. My wife’s 19 EXL AWD has 48K. Get yourself a SVCM and disable the VCM system. Hers has the six speed which the VCM can play havoc on. I’ve used Amsoil SS 0W20. I have Boosted waiting to go in along with Lubguard Biotech. I’ll probably hear about it, lol. Her car idles a lot and does see freeway driving twice a week. I follow the olm.What is the collective wisdom on the best mainstream 0w20 to use in a Honda 1.5 TGDI engine (2021 Honda CRV) to resist fuel dilution that is also good for use in 2 other Honda J35Z V6s that take 0w20?
Which one has the most fuel dilution resistant formula with the new/changed/recent formulas? I thought it was M1 EP, but am wondering about their recent formula change.
I follow the maintenance minder OCIs, generally 6k or 7k miles. The CRV sees some short twice a week urban trips and then longer highway drives. The V6s see highway commutes.
Eyes on Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum full synth, or Valvoline EP synthetic, or another mainstream available at Walmart, Amazon, etc.
I would love to settle on a single best oil to stock that served all my 0w20 Hondas. I have an older Honda V6 that gets M1 High Mileage.
Curious on the collective wisdom. Thanks.
As noted, Blackstone fuel dilution numbers are very unreliable.It was 1.3 pct fuel and 360 F flashpoint per a Blackstone test on the first OC. i dont know of any fuel dilution on the J35 V6s but I dont get the oil analysis done on them. Below is a link to my post with the oil analysis
Mobil 1 EP 0w-20, 6000 miles, 2021 Honda CRV, 12k miles, 1.5 Turbo GDI
2021 Honda CRV with the 1.5 Turbo GDiI, 6000 miles on the oil, 12000 miles on the vehicle. This is sample from drain pan at second oil change on the vehicle, done myself both times with Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W20, Honda A02 (Fram) filter. College students car, sees short trips in hot...bobistheoilguy.com
Yes and with dilution the only way you keep a robust MOFT is with viscosity.Rented a 2021 Accord with the 1.5. Drove it for a week, mostly long highway trips, gained a quart of oil on the dipstick
It smelled of gas, and if it were my car, I'd have that oil out of there in a nanosecond. To be replaced with something more robust.
Thank you for your input ! Can I ask about your OCI and driving conditions ? Have you changed the timing belt and associated hardware yet ?I use HPL Premium Plus 0w20 in my 2021 J35Y6 engine and the results have been outstanding thus far. I am confident that this 0w20 lube would produce exceptional results in any appropriate application.
QSFS 10W30 you want low VM load so no 5W30.What is the collective wisdom on the best mainstream 0w20 to use in a Honda 1.5 TGDI engine (2021 Honda CRV) to resist fuel dilution that is also good for use in 2 other Honda J35Z V6s that take 0w20?
Which one has the most fuel dilution resistant formula with the new/changed/recent formulas? I thought it was M1 EP, but am wondering about their recent formula change.
I follow the maintenance minder OCIs, generally 6k or 7k miles. The CRV sees some short twice a week urban trips and then longer highway drives. The V6s see highway commutes.
Eyes on Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum full synth, or Valvoline EP synthetic, or another mainstream available at Walmart, Amazon, etc.
I would love to settle on a single best oil to stock that served all my 0w20 Hondas. I have an older Honda V6 that gets M1 High Mileage.
Curious on the collective wisdom. Thanks.
Please elaborate.Or use 89+ octane gas and bypass the fuel dilution issue entirely.
Yes. Since this person is in Alabama, a 10W-30 would be a better choice. QSFS would likely be my pick as well.QSFS 10W30 you want low VM load so no 5W30.
The QS if the best widely available and affordable.
Helps you are in Alabama.
I don’t think Honda’s base tune will recognize 89/91. I also don’t think the 1.5T is used in any Acura(which would use a 91/92 octane base tune) so we have a data point. I think despite the PCM and AC control updates, Honda is still using a heavy shot of fuel to “cool” the intake charge, there’s not too latitude with ignition/fuel maps on 87 with a turbo compared to 91/92.Or use 89+ octane gas and bypass the fuel dilution issue entirely.
Whether a higher octane fuel reduces anti-knock enrichment and timing varies wildly based on engine design and ECM programming, it's definitely not a guaranteed fix. It could do anything from greatly reducing it to absolutely nothing at all.Or use 89+ octane gas and bypass the fuel dilution issue entirely.
If it were mine and under warranty it would be back at the dealer getting that issue addressed.Rented a 2021 Accord with the 1.5. Drove it for a week, mostly long highway trips, gained a quart of oil on the dipstick
It smelled of gas, and if it were my car, I'd have that oil out of there in a nanosecond. To be replaced with something more robust.
Worth a try but in all likelyhood they will keep the car for a week and then say "this is normal" or "could not reproduce"If it were mine and under warranty it would be back at the dealer getting that issue addressed.
Even then, I’d be suspect of any sort of results someone would obtain. I would have to think this problem is also very dependent on whether, the driver, and the specific driving routine. I also struggle with the notion that it makes that big of a difference. Perhaps it helps in a way that I don’t really understand, but some of the engines that we’ve seen on here have awful dilution problems.Has anybody tried running 91 in this engine with UOA's that use GC to see if it has any appreciable impact on dilution?
The mechanism is that due to high compression ratios used on GDI and TGDI mills, enrichment to control knock plays a significant role, one that has further flexibility with the ability to change the timing of the charge. This is separate from ignition timing manipulation for the same effect. These things are used together and one of the reasons you can run a much higher compression ratio with a DI mill than you can port injected, and also get away with lower octane.Even then, I’d be suspect of any sort of results someone would obtain. I would have to think this problem is also very dependent on whether, the driver, and the specific driving routine. I also struggle with the notion that it makes that big of a difference. Perhaps it helps in a way that I don’t really understand, but some of the engines that we’ve seen on here have awful dilution problems.
You’ve seen my results on my Mazda -Whether a higher octane fuel reduces anti-knock enrichment and timing varies wildly based on engine design and ECM programming, it's definitely not a guaranteed fix. It could do anything from greatly reducing it to absolutely nothing at all.
Has anybody tried running 91 in this engine with UOA's that use GC to see if it has any appreciable impact on dilution?
Yep, though I will add that 4% is actually low compared to what some of these Honda's see, keep that in mindYou’ve seen my results on my Mazda -
I run Top Tier 93 consistently - I have over 4% fuel dilution on a normal interval.
Then again, the factory oil lost 15% of its viscosity from 4.6% dilution, and the HPL lost 3.5% @4.3% and still has about 8% of the original fill affecting it!
I was told at the open house that gasoline attacks the VII additive, and I suspect some of the top tier boutique’s like HPL, Red Line, and AMSOIL that are formulated with significant amounts of esters, minimal VIIs, and that are using VIIs that are significantly more resistant to degradation will all achieve the stated goal here.