Best 0w20 to resist fuel dilution in Honda 1.5 TGDI engine? And use in Honda J35 V6s?

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What is the collective wisdom on the best mainstream 0w20 to use in a Honda 1.5 TGDI engine (2021 Honda CRV) to resist fuel dilution that is also good for use in 2 other Honda J35Z V6s that take 0w20?

Which one has the most fuel dilution resistant formula with the new/changed/recent formulas? I thought it was M1 EP, but am wondering about their recent formula change.

I follow the maintenance minder OCIs, generally 6k or 7k miles. The CRV sees some short twice a week urban trips and then longer highway drives. The V6s see highway commutes.

Eyes on Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum full synth, or Valvoline EP synthetic, or another mainstream available at Walmart, Amazon, etc.

I would love to settle on a single best oil to stock that served all my 0w20 Hondas. I have an older Honda V6 that gets M1 High Mileage.

Curious on the collective wisdom. Thanks.
Referring to the pilot. My wife’s 19 EXL AWD has 48K. Get yourself a SVCM and disable the VCM system. Hers has the six speed which the VCM can play havoc on. I’ve used Amsoil SS 0W20. I have Boosted waiting to go in along with Lubguard Biotech. I’ll probably hear about it, lol. Her car idles a lot and does see freeway driving twice a week. I follow the olm.
 
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It was 1.3 pct fuel and 360 F flashpoint per a Blackstone test on the first OC. i dont know of any fuel dilution on the J35 V6s but I dont get the oil analysis done on them. Below is a link to my post with the oil analysis

As noted, Blackstone fuel dilution numbers are very unreliable.
 
Rented a 2021 Accord with the 1.5. Drove it for a week, mostly long highway trips, gained a quart of oil on the dipstick :eek:

It smelled of gas, and if it were my car, I'd have that oil out of there in a nanosecond. To be replaced with something more robust.
Yes and with dilution the only way you keep a robust MOFT is with viscosity.
 
I use HPL Premium Plus 0w20 in my 2021 J35Y6 engine and the results have been outstanding thus far. I am confident that this 0w20 lube would produce exceptional results in any appropriate application.
Thank you for your input ! Can I ask about your OCI and driving conditions ? Have you changed the timing belt and associated hardware yet ?
 
Move up a viscosity grade. Run a quality 5W-30 like Valvoline Advanced or Mobil 1. Then, keep the OCI's short -- like 3000 miles or less.

In any case, top-off as needed!
 
What is the collective wisdom on the best mainstream 0w20 to use in a Honda 1.5 TGDI engine (2021 Honda CRV) to resist fuel dilution that is also good for use in 2 other Honda J35Z V6s that take 0w20?

Which one has the most fuel dilution resistant formula with the new/changed/recent formulas? I thought it was M1 EP, but am wondering about their recent formula change.

I follow the maintenance minder OCIs, generally 6k or 7k miles. The CRV sees some short twice a week urban trips and then longer highway drives. The V6s see highway commutes.

Eyes on Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum full synth, or Valvoline EP synthetic, or another mainstream available at Walmart, Amazon, etc.

I would love to settle on a single best oil to stock that served all my 0w20 Hondas. I have an older Honda V6 that gets M1 High Mileage.

Curious on the collective wisdom. Thanks.
QSFS 10W30 you want low VM load so no 5W30.
The QS if the best widely available and affordable.
Helps you are in Alabama.

My new direct injection Ford 2 litre had 2.5 % fuel on a UOA. I waited too long before going to a thicker oil and hurt the motor.
It Clatters and knocks loudly now when warmed up.
Didn't before the fuel hurt it. Was smooth and powerful.

Good luck and have some fun
 
QSFS 10W30 you want low VM load so no 5W30.
The QS if the best widely available and affordable.
Helps you are in Alabama.
Yes. Since this person is in Alabama, a 10W-30 would be a better choice. QSFS would likely be my pick as well.

Keep forgetting people live down South! :cool:
 
Or use 89+ octane gas and bypass the fuel dilution issue entirely.
I don’t think Honda’s base tune will recognize 89/91. I also don’t think the 1.5T is used in any Acura(which would use a 91/92 octane base tune) so we have a data point. I think despite the PCM and AC control updates, Honda is still using a heavy shot of fuel to “cool” the intake charge, there’s not too latitude with ignition/fuel maps on 87 with a turbo compared to 91/92.

If it was me, either a VW/Mercedes approved 0W-20(M1 ESP carries VW and GM dexosD, Castrol Edge EP carries MB/D1G3) or a D1-approved 5W-30. LSPI is real, Red Line HP(not Professional Series) or HPL would be the best picks but RL might be loaded down with calcium detergents.
 
Or use 89+ octane gas and bypass the fuel dilution issue entirely.
Whether a higher octane fuel reduces anti-knock enrichment and timing varies wildly based on engine design and ECM programming, it's definitely not a guaranteed fix. It could do anything from greatly reducing it to absolutely nothing at all.

Has anybody tried running 91 in this engine with UOA's that use GC to see if it has any appreciable impact on dilution?
 
Mobil 1ESP 0W30 or Mobil 1 0W20. Changed frequently as @billt460 already stated.
Rented a 2021 Accord with the 1.5. Drove it for a week, mostly long highway trips, gained a quart of oil on the dipstick :eek:

It smelled of gas, and if it were my car, I'd have that oil out of there in a nanosecond. To be replaced with something more robust.
If it were mine and under warranty it would be back at the dealer getting that issue addressed.
 
Has anybody tried running 91 in this engine with UOA's that use GC to see if it has any appreciable impact on dilution?
Even then, I’d be suspect of any sort of results someone would obtain. I would have to think this problem is also very dependent on whether, the driver, and the specific driving routine. I also struggle with the notion that it makes that big of a difference. Perhaps it helps in a way that I don’t really understand, but some of the engines that we’ve seen on here have awful dilution problems.
 
Even then, I’d be suspect of any sort of results someone would obtain. I would have to think this problem is also very dependent on whether, the driver, and the specific driving routine. I also struggle with the notion that it makes that big of a difference. Perhaps it helps in a way that I don’t really understand, but some of the engines that we’ve seen on here have awful dilution problems.
The mechanism is that due to high compression ratios used on GDI and TGDI mills, enrichment to control knock plays a significant role, one that has further flexibility with the ability to change the timing of the charge. This is separate from ignition timing manipulation for the same effect. These things are used together and one of the reasons you can run a much higher compression ratio with a DI mill than you can port injected, and also get away with lower octane.

They of course use knock-sensor feedback to "tune" this process and, if the ECM has the requisite adaption strategy(ies) it may back off enrichment if it isn't observing knock, but this of course requires that there is sufficient room/movement in the adaptives table to allow for this claw-back of fuel in response to absence of knock events. We have seen some UOA's with DI engines where there appears to be evidence of this happening.

But, as I noted, there are plenty of caveats and it may do absolutely nothing with this engine.
 
Whether a higher octane fuel reduces anti-knock enrichment and timing varies wildly based on engine design and ECM programming, it's definitely not a guaranteed fix. It could do anything from greatly reducing it to absolutely nothing at all.

Has anybody tried running 91 in this engine with UOA's that use GC to see if it has any appreciable impact on dilution?
You’ve seen my results on my Mazda -
I run Top Tier 93 consistently - I have over 4% fuel dilution on a normal interval.

Then again, the factory oil lost 15% of its viscosity from 4.6% dilution, and the HPL lost 3.5% @4.3% and still has about 8% of the original fill affecting it!

I was told at the open house that gasoline attacks the VII additive, and I suspect some of the top tier boutique’s like HPL, Red Line, and AMSOIL that are formulated with significant amounts of esters, minimal VIIs, and that are using VIIs that are significantly more resistant to degradation will all achieve the stated goal here.
 
You’ve seen my results on my Mazda -
I run Top Tier 93 consistently - I have over 4% fuel dilution on a normal interval.

Then again, the factory oil lost 15% of its viscosity from 4.6% dilution, and the HPL lost 3.5% @4.3% and still has about 8% of the original fill affecting it!

I was told at the open house that gasoline attacks the VII additive, and I suspect some of the top tier boutique’s like HPL, Red Line, and AMSOIL that are formulated with significant amounts of esters, minimal VIIs, and that are using VIIs that are significantly more resistant to degradation will all achieve the stated goal here.
Yep, though I will add that 4% is actually low compared to what some of these Honda's see, keep that in mind :)

And yes, VII polymer (plastic) could most definitely get attacked by fuel, further reducing viscosity, so minimal VII use should help alleviate that.
 
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