They changed the label, for a reason. IMO it was because people were thinking a bit too much out of the box, and caused problems they otherwise didn't have. Engines can be killed with kindness too.
Berryman's B12 Chemtool added to oil causing running issues
- Thread starter TiGeo
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Elkins45
Site Donor 2026
This is the post I was referring to:
“To do this type of flush, add to the COLD engine oil 1½-2 fl oz of B-12 CHEMTOOL per quart of oil capacity. For example, if your oil capacity is 5 quarts, you would add 7½-10 fl oz to the cold oil. Then start the vehicle and let it idle for 5-10 minutes. At this point, all the cleaner will have evaporated. If the oil isn’t too dirty, then there’s no need to change it. However, if the oil picked up quite a bit of color from sludge, you should go ahead change it (again). Note that you can perform multiple soaks before changing the oil if you think that oil control ring needs quite a bit of attention. Just make sure the oil has a chance to completely cool down each time.”
Where on the label did it say not to change the oil if the oil isn't too dirty? The product thins the oil out, and was never intended to be used that way. This is the point of how thinking out of the box can cause problems. Because it might have worked for someone once or twice doesn't mean it is going to work that way for someone else. FTR I'm not piking on you, just bringing out a point, and trying to save someone an engine reading this thread. There's a reason they don't have adding it to the crankcase on the label anymore.
Elkins45
Site Donor 2026
I don’t think I would ever do that. I was just pointing out that they seem to think it will flash off at operating temp. The main component (based on smell) seems to be toluene which boils at 231 F° so it would need to be fully up to temp before it gassed off.
I know it does wonders as a piston soak. It essentially cured the severe oil burning problem in my 2009 Scion. My thinking is: why do something that might damage your engine when you can do a piston soak that has a much greater chance of success with no chance of engine damage?
For a piston soak, fire up the engine run it a few seconds and drop the oil and filter, yea no problem. Adding it to the oil, idling it, looking at the oil and saying it looks clean leave it alone, no way. IMO it is that kind of use, and other variations that prompted them to take it off the label altogether.
Toluene will evaporate at room temp, as anyone who has ever worked with it and has a functioning nose can tell.
Elkins45
Site Donor 2026
Of course, but at the boiling point it will all be gone in seconds since it doesn’t have to be at the exposed surface to leave. Evaporation can only happen at the interface with the atmosphere. Although in an engine with decent oil pressure it probably has plenty of chances to evaporate before it boils since it’s being slung all over the cams and sprayed around by the timing chain.
I’m sure of itThey changed the label, for a reason. IMO it was because people were thinking a bit too much out of the box, and caused problems they otherwise didn't have. Engines can be killed with kindness too.
That’s true, sometimes we spill toluene out of barge header connections at work and no worries because by the time you get spill pads gathered to clean it up it’s already gone.
These are the ingredients off the sds
Acetone, Toluene, 2-Butoxyethanol Carbon Dioxide
I dunno how mixing these in oil effects their evaporation rates?
Berrymans stated reasoning for suggesting to drain right after and to only idle not under load, however, is that it could loosen up too much sludge and starve the engine do to blockage.
I've used Chemtool in oil multiple times with no issues. If you try to pour it in a hot engine, it will literally boil back in your face. No way in hell that it's staying in the oil for 400 miles. It's gone in the first 10-15 minutes. First time I used it several times in a Dodge Neon that had an odd severe misfire that occurred only at high speed regardless of load (not ignition). Seemed almost like the lifters were over-filling and floating the valves, if that's even possible, or they were starved of oil, and the valves weren't opening. Once I'd slow down, it'd go away. Did 3 applications of Chemtool to the oil on a cold engine, and the problem vanished. Most recently I put a can in my 2015 Mustang Ecoboost twice, each time on a cold engine after work. Drove it gently for a mile or so and then drove it normally. I did this after I learned that it has variable valve timing, and that the cam oil modulator solenoids can become clogged, which will cause loss of power and eventual full loss of camshaft modulation. Engine has 120,000 miles on it, and previous owners let the oil get very black. It's amazing now--more power than ever before, and it's solid. Before, the power was hit or miss, and often disappointing. I will be adding a can to my oil annually now. I am hesitant about using it in one of the Fords equipped with the inexcusable rubber oil pump belts. I intend to buy a belt and soak it to see what happens. My pump is on a chain, which is also dumb, but better than a belt.
Just my view, but Valvoline Restore and Protect obsoletes every solvent-based flush on the market for crankcase usage.
If it doesn't contain any solvents, what exactly is it doing to clean out your engine?
Go ahead and read up on it on this site.
Yes, ...a lot of fluff that uses the word "technology," a commonly over-used fluff word. This is on par to Tri-Clean and Invigorate found in gasoline. Funny thing is that my injectors still clogged, and my #1 injector clogged more than the rest, causing a lean condition which burned an exhaust valve on my previous car. After rebuilding the engine, it still ran like crap, and that's when I pulled the plugs and realized what had happened. Guess what I used to clean the injectors! That's right! Berryman's Chemtool! I pour a can in every year now, and I pour it in a quarter tank, not full. I rebuilt that engine at 219K miles. It now has 400,000 miles, and is on the original fuel pump, too! Mileage also improved from 25-32 in the city, and from 36-40 in the country. Thanks for the suggestion, but I will now be putting Chemtool in my oil yearly, too, and enjoying my smoother more powerful engine. I also suck it in through the PCV hose because I have direct injection, so there's no gasoline to clean off the valves. I've considered drilling "spray holes" at each of the intake runners, and tapping them each for a brass screw. I'd remove each screw to spray Chemtool directly at each valve. I may still. Chemtool all the way for long lasting smooth running powerful engines!
Sounds like you’ve got it all figured out.
I'm not sure anyone knows exactly how it works. Ester? More AN ?
Sounds like somebody was running a product that wasn't meant to be ran in the part of the automobile or for the duration that it was. I've always steered clear of Berryman products because a lot of those cheap products are nothing but extremely strong solvents and you're better off with a slow cleaning with detergents. It's not to say that some of their products don't work cuz they probably do.
B12 works great when you follow the directions. It also works great when you recognize that it is an extremely strong solvent and take caution using it for something like a piston soak. It doesn't work great when you ignore all of that and thin out your oil running it through the engine in a way that it specifically warns against doing.
This is 100% user error.
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