Berryman's B12 Chemtool added to oil causing running issues

This is from 2017

Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine.


If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter.
They changed the label, for a reason. IMO it was because people were thinking a bit too much out of the box, and caused problems they otherwise didn't have. Engines can be killed with kindness too. ;)
 
This is from 2017

Berryman B-12 CHEMTOOL FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER (part #0116) is extremely effective in the crankcase for the removal of gum, sludge, and other deposits IMMEDIATELY before an oil change. Because of the amount of cleaning that the product can do, it is not recommended to add it and then drive normally. This is due to the possibility of overloading the oil with deposits. This is not really a concern while idling and letting the oil temperature come up, but excessive deposits could be problematic once load is put on the engine.


If you would like to try B-12 as an engine flush, simply pour into your cold crankcase approximately 1½-2 oz. of #0116 per quart of oil capacity. For instance, if your vehicle holds 6 quarts of oil, then you would use 9-12 oz. of or about two-thirds to three-quarters of one can. After you’ve added it to your cold oil, start the car and run it at idle 10-15 minutes until the oil is warmed up. Then change the spent oil and replace the oil filter.
This is the post I was referring to:

“To do this type of flush, add to the COLD engine oil 1½-2 fl oz of B-12 CHEMTOOL per quart of oil capacity. For example, if your oil capacity is 5 quarts, you would add 7½-10 fl oz to the cold oil. Then start the vehicle and let it idle for 5-10 minutes. At this point, all the cleaner will have evaporated. If the oil isn’t too dirty, then there’s no need to change it. However, if the oil picked up quite a bit of color from sludge, you should go ahead change it (again). Note that you can perform multiple soaks before changing the oil if you think that oil control ring needs quite a bit of attention. Just make sure the oil has a chance to completely cool down each time.”
 
This is the post I was referring to:

“To do this type of flush, add to the COLD engine oil 1½-2 fl oz of B-12 CHEMTOOL per quart of oil capacity. For example, if your oil capacity is 5 quarts, you would add 7½-10 fl oz to the cold oil. Then start the vehicle and let it idle for 5-10 minutes. At this point, all the cleaner will have evaporated. If the oil isn’t too dirty, then there’s no need to change it. However, if the oil picked up quite a bit of color from sludge, you should go ahead change it (again). Note that you can perform multiple soaks before changing the oil if you think that oil control ring needs quite a bit of attention. Just make sure the oil has a chance to completely cool down each time.”
Where on the label did it say not to change the oil if the oil isn't too dirty? The product thins the oil out, and was never intended to be used that way. This is the point of how thinking out of the box can cause problems. Because it might have worked for someone once or twice doesn't mean it is going to work that way for someone else. FTR I'm not piking on you, just bringing out a point, and trying to save someone an engine reading this thread. There's a reason they don't have adding it to the crankcase on the label anymore.
 
Where on the label did it say not to change the oil if the oil isn't too dirty? The product thins the oil out, and was never intended to be used that way. This is the point of how thinking out of the box can cause problems. Because it might have worked for someone once or twice doesn't mean it is going to work that way for someone else. FTR I'm not piking on you, just bringing out a point, and trying to save someone an engine reading this thread. There's a reason they don't have adding it to the crankcase on the label anymore.
I don’t think I would ever do that. I was just pointing out that they seem to think it will flash off at operating temp. The main component (based on smell) seems to be toluene which boils at 231 F° so it would need to be fully up to temp before it gassed off.

I know it does wonders as a piston soak. It essentially cured the severe oil burning problem in my 2009 Scion. My thinking is: why do something that might damage your engine when you can do a piston soak that has a much greater chance of success with no chance of engine damage?
 
I don’t think I would ever do that. I was just pointing out that they seem to think it will flash off at operating temp. The main component (based on smell) seems to be toluene which boils at 231 F° so it would need to be fully up to temp before it gassed off.

I know it does wonders as a piston soak. It essentially cured the severe oil burning problem in my 2009 Scion. My thinking is: why do something that might damage your engine when you can do a piston soak that has a much greater chance of success with no chance of engine damage?
For a piston soak, fire up the engine run it a few seconds and drop the oil and filter, yea no problem. Adding it to the oil, idling it, looking at the oil and saying it looks clean leave it alone, no way. IMO it is that kind of use, and other variations that prompted them to take it off the label altogether.
 
I don’t think I would ever do that. I was just pointing out that they seem to think it will flash off at operating temp. The main component (based on smell) seems to be toluene which boils at 231 F° so it would need to be fully up to temp before it gassed off.

Toluene will evaporate at room temp, as anyone who has ever worked with it and has a functioning nose can tell.
 
Toluene will evaporate at room temp, as anyone who has ever worked with it and has a functioning nose can tell.
Of course, but at the boiling point it will all be gone in seconds since it doesn’t have to be at the exposed surface to leave. Evaporation can only happen at the interface with the atmosphere. Although in an engine with decent oil pressure it probably has plenty of chances to evaporate before it boils since it’s being slung all over the cams and sprayed around by the timing chain.
 
Toluene will evaporate at room temp, as anyone who has ever worked with it and has a functioning nose can tell.
That’s true, sometimes we spill toluene out of barge header connections at work and no worries because by the time you get spill pads gathered to clean it up it’s already gone.
These are the ingredients off the sds
Acetone, Toluene, 2-Butoxyethanol Carbon Dioxide
I dunno how mixing these in oil effects their evaporation rates?
Berrymans stated reasoning for suggesting to drain right after and to only idle not under load, however, is that it could loosen up too much sludge and starve the engine do to blockage.
 
Back
Top