Battery terminal cleaner

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Sep 30, 2013
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Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

I bought Noco brand terminal cleaner spray that really didn’t do anything.

Is there something on the market that is better and/ or would allow a few hour to overnight soak? The terminals are fine so I really don’t want to replace them. Going to switch to an AGM battery when everything is clean.
 
Forget the spray, it is useless. I use a piece of emory cloth to clean the posts and terminals. Those cutter cleaning tools will shave off too much material if used repeatedly resulting in a loose fit and having to use a shim spacer to take up the gap. If you have heavy corrosion, use a baking soda/ water solution.
 
Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

I bought Noco brand terminal cleaner spray that really didn’t do anything.

Is there something on the market that is better and/ or would allow a few hour to overnight soak? The terminals are fine so I really don’t want to replace them. Going to switch to an AGM battery when everything is clean.
The CRC stuff works really well. I think it changes color when it neutral the battery acid. I've removed some heavy build up without issues.
 
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^^Use a paper cup so you can tear the side to make a slot so the terminal can reach the solution without tipping the cup (spilling). Remember, the length of cable will never cooperate.
Baking soda + water.
It's good to get the crud from beneath the terminal too.
I've always needed a brush or pick tool to get it all.
 
I have several oldish vehicles, not sure if it is because I live in a temperate climate or what....but I have never done anything more than clean a little crud off of terminals with a toothbrush. Never had a problem.
 
I'm glad newer vehicles and batteries don't have this issue as much.

Seemed like 40-50 years ago that's all I did was clean terminals. Baking soda, brush, emery paper...........ugg. It worked. I think even those felt rings helped.
 
cheapest is baking soda and water. Theres a guy on youtube university who just pours hot water from a cup and claims its equally effective. do not do that lol.
 
In my kids' vehicles, I just pour hot water on the + terminal whenever I notice any blue/green corrosion. It washes right away. I've read where people say don't do it, but it works for me. Whenever we have to replace the battery in either of their cars, I will probably put some dielectric grease on the terminals of the new battery.
 
Forget baking soda, it just leaves a mess. Use bottled ammonia and rinse with water.

But I haven't had a leaking battery in decades.
 
I'm glad newer vehicles and batteries don't have this issue as much.

Seemed like 40-50 years ago that's all I did was clean terminals. Baking soda, brush, emery paper...........ugg. It worked. I think even those felt rings helped.
Yeah the new cars don't charge the batteries enough!

The simpler voltage regulators that always put out 14+ volts also caused some offgassing, which brought a little acid with it. We had to add water more often then, too.
 
In my kids' vehicles, I just pour hot water on the + terminal whenever I notice any blue/green corrosion. It washes right away. I've read where people say don't do it, but it works for me. Whenever we have to replace the battery in either of their cars, I will probably put some dielectric grease on the terminals of the new battery.
Watch when you do that, that your acid doesn't wind up down inside the subframe or something else critical. It's mega corrosive. Saturn S series used to rot on the driver's sides, under the batteries, yet be pristine on the passenger sides, under the leaky timing covers, LOL.

If you do nothing else, pour the water on with a garden hose so it gets really diluted.
 
Newer batteries have much better baffling under the cover. This helps to condense any vapor and keeps it in the battery. Both my OE batteries were 'sealed' but vented and lasted 9+ years. The replacements have caps. Hopefully they have better seals on the post too with newer batteries. The old style stuff usually was a lead ring imbedded in the cover and a friction fit. This was easy to distort and then the leakage.

And the alloys used in the grids makes a huge difference is the gassing. Gassing is nothing more than excessive current. Silver, cadmium, calcium, tin are all in the mix.

My OE alternators run/ran at 14.4 when charging and 14.0 when after fully charged. One I have replaced and the first ran low volts 14.4 after the battery is fully charged.
 
Watch when you do that, that your acid doesn't wind up down inside the subframe or something else critical. It's mega corrosive. Saturn S series used to rot on the driver's sides, under the batteries, yet be pristine on the passenger sides, under the leaky timing covers, LOL.

If you do nothing else, pour the water on with a garden hose so it gets really diluted.
Good point, although I've never noticed any problems in the past. I think I use enough water that it washes all the acid out the bottom of the engine compartment. I use my big Yeti coffee mug and fill it with hot water from the coffee maker. From now on, I'll get after it with the garden hose after a couple of minutes to give everything a good rinse.
 
Just remember if it's leaking acid, then when spraying water you probably are getting that in the battery.

What you need is a new battery.
 
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