JHZR2
Staff member
I’ve been behind in carrying out my testing. Need to get back at it. I did get a new toy to try. $39.99-7% Amazon discount with SAE plugs, a nice LCD with temperature and voltage data, and a temperature sensor.
Battery Charger Testing Results
- Thread starter JHZR2
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JHZR2
Staff member
I’m going to test this new thing first. I’m curious about it.
Then back to the other more mainstream ones I have around.
I’ll note, it is off by 0.3V.
Then back to the other more mainstream ones I have around.
I’ll note, it is off by 0.3V.
Off by 0.3V? Sorry, looks like cheap Amazon junk as usual to me...
that could be a set point?
Just saying, even cheap voltmeters are spot on, or consistently off due to bad connections.
Curious about the results with this one
Curious about the results with this one
I'd say maybe that's what it is outputting, but you should be measuring the same then, weird...
Given the accuracy specification of your multimeter a displayed reading of 12.41 VDC could be anywhere from 12.32V to 12.49V actual. Now consider that looking at a state of charge table for car batteries, 12.32V is 70% charged and 12.50 volts is 90%. You’re using a piece of test equipment that, when operating within spec, cannot distinguish between them.
JHZR2
Staff member
Thats true, the Owon logging meter has an accuracy of 0.5%, while, say, my Fluke 87V is 0.05%. Sure. That’s why if I’m looking at actual SOC, I actually use a good meter, like my 87V, Because it does matter.
For evaluating charging profiles and steps, it doesn’t matter so much in that the interest is in the charging strategy. If a charger has calibration drift or accuracy issues, it could over or under charge, that’s indeed a risk. But not the primary intent of studying their charging profiles.
JHZR2
Staff member
I’ve noticed it has gotten closer. Here it is not outputting, and it is very close. Far closer than the consistent 0.3V I saw when I first had it. It is also flagging the battery as bad. Not sure why. It may well be not that great. But I don’t know that it’s condemnable. Probably should do a real resistive load test on it...
After gathering info from various reviews I bought a NOCO 10. Be careful pushing the mode button on your NOCO! Less than 2 months and the button has failed. A simple label that sticks on, but NOCO cannot supply one. To get it resolved, actually replaced, I have to send it to them. No parts, no repairs. No more IP65 water proofing wither.
JHZR2
Staff member
You must have very sharp fingernails, or pressed it hard!
Actually was using it in 15-20°F ambient temp trying to get it to change modes and felt it crack. Good stuff!
next one should last you 10 years then, till the next cold wave
Those membrane type switch covers don't last on anything, dunno why they are used in stuff like this. There are better sealed options...
Well looks like I will be sending my "Genius10" off to Noco for replacement. First the button fell apart, see #71 above. Now when I hook it up and turn it on, it constantly switches on-off-on-off from "12V' or "12V AGM" continuously. Two vehicles & different batteries. Might give up on a Noco once this warranty mess at my expense (shipping) gets straightened out. It was doing something else weird a couple of weeks ago, all lights were on and the green light was hard flashing not the usual fade in-out. Tech support told me it was in maintenance mode! No faith in this device anymore, and I certainly wouldn't want to leave it powered on charging and unattended for any length of time.
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Trying to charge the battery weekly since ‘12 Camry sees a lot of short trips. Takes about 20 mins before the 3 amp charger from Walmart says charge complete. East Penn 24f battery. The Value one from WM. Had a no start issue when battery was 14 mos. old. But that was likely due to the short trips and car not being driven much during that time.
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On to the '21 Corolla.
