Balanced multiple times, still vibrating?

[DuckRyder]

Originally Posted by Traction
Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Do you have the RF numbers? Post them if you do. My experience has been anything over 15 WILL give you problems, if not now then down the road.

Agree with the consensus to have them RF'd again. Making sure the tech checks for a bent rim and making sure they get it as low as possible.

One other possibility, you never mentioned what brand/type of tires you're running. Some tires are just garbage.

Sometimes I think road force balancing is over-hyped. When I installed the 265-40-17 tires on the front of my C5 Corvette 5 years ago, I didn't have a road force balancer. So now that I do I wanted to check them before going on a 500 mile trip last weekend. I was shocked to find out that one was 46lbs, and the other at 38lbs of RF. One I rotated 180 and got it down to the limit of 28lbs. The other one I clocked it to 4 different positions, and it was 46lbs every time. I gave up and decided I would just have to deal with it and just balance them to the lowest limits. Didn't see any run-out in the wheel, or tire. If a tire isn't checked for residual static imbalance in the fine mode, it can be over 1/2oz out of balance even if the machine displays all zeros in normal dynamic mode. I always try to get the residual static, which creates hop down to 5/100ths of an ounce, or lower. Less than a rock pebble . The car ran perfectly smooth up to 80mph for the whole trip.
The roller on the road force balancer is far from a flat road. It is like 10 inches in diameter, compared to the earth at almost 8000 miles. And no, the earth isn't flat either.


I'm confused by this post.

The road force balancer will measure the wheel and tire runout and uniformity - you don't have to "see" it, it tells you it is there... furthermore... it then tells you where to turn the tire on the wheel for best match... yes an experienced tech can sometimes do even better, but should be no reason for turning it 4 times.... IME

Since you have a road force balancer and are a "Certified Tire Service Instructor" I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know, so I don't understand why not let the machine do the work?

 

[Traction]

Originally Posted by DuckRyder
Originally Posted by Traction
Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Do you have the RF numbers? Post them if you do. My experience has been anything over 15 WILL give you problems, if not now then down the road.

Agree with the consensus to have them RF'd again. Making sure the tech checks for a bent rim and making sure they get it as low as possible.

One other possibility, you never mentioned what brand/type of tires you're running. Some tires are just garbage.

Sometimes I think road force balancing is over-hyped. When I installed the 265-40-17 tires on the front of my C5 Corvette 5 years ago, I didn't have a road force balancer. So now that I do I wanted to check them before going on a 500 mile trip last weekend. I was shocked to find out that one was 46lbs, and the other at 38lbs of RF. One I rotated 180 and got it down to the limit of 28lbs. The other one I clocked it to 4 different positions, and it was 46lbs every time. I gave up and decided I would just have to deal with it and just balance them to the lowest limits. Didn't see any run-out in the wheel, or tire. If a tire isn't checked for residual static imbalance in the fine mode, it can be over 1/2oz out of balance even if the machine displays all zeros in normal dynamic mode. I always try to get the residual static, which creates hop down to 5/100ths of an ounce, or lower. Less than a rock pebble . The car ran perfectly smooth up to 80mph for the whole trip.
The roller on the road force balancer is far from a flat road. It is like 10 inches in diameter, compared to the earth at almost 8000 miles. And no, the earth isn't flat either.


I'm confused by this post.

The road force balancer will measure the wheel and tire runout and uniformity - you don't have to "see" it, it tells you it is there... furthermore... it then tells you where to turn the tire on the wheel for best match... yes an experienced tech can sometimes do even better, but should be no reason for turning it 4 times.... IME

Since you have a road force balancer and are a "Certified Tire Service Instructor" I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know, so I don't understand why not let the machine do the work?


Originally Posted by DuckRyder
Originally Posted by Traction
Originally Posted by sasilverbullet
Do you have the RF numbers? Post them if you do. My experience has been anything over 15 WILL give you problems,



if not now then down the road.

Agree with the consensus to have them RF'd again. Making sure the tech checks for a bent rim and making sure they get it as low as possible.

One other possibility, you never mentioned what brand/type of tires you're running. Some tires are just garbage.

Sometimes I think road force balancing is over-hyped. When I installed the 265-40-17 tires on the front of my C5 Corvette 5 years ago, I didn't have a road force balancer. So now that I do I wanted to check them before going on a 500 mile trip last weekend. I was shocked to find out that one was 46lbs, and the other at 38lbs of RF. One I rotated 180 and got it down to the limit of 28lbs. The other one I clocked it to 4 different positions, and it was 46lbs every time. I gave up and decided I would just have to deal with it and just balance them to the lowest limits. Didn't see any run-out in the wheel, or tire. If a tire isn't checked for residual static imbalance in the fine mode, it can be over 1/2oz out of balance even if the machine displays all zeros in normal dynamic mode. I always try to get the residual static, which creates hop down to 5/100ths of an ounce, or lower. Less than a rock pebble . The car ran perfectly smooth up to 80mph for the whole trip.
The roller on the road force balancer is far from a flat road. It is like 10 inches in diameter, compared to the earth at almost 8000 miles. And no, the earth isn't flat either.


I'm confused by this post.

The road force balancer will measure the wheel and tire runout and uniformity - you don't have to "see" it, it tells you it is there... furthermore... it then tells you where to turn the tire on the wheel for best match... yes an experienced tech can sometimes do even better, but should be no reason for turning it 4 times.... IME

Since you have a road force balancer and are a "Certified Tire Service Instructor" I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't know, so I don't understand why not let the machine do the work?


Simply put. iI I have a wheel that is perfectly round, it won't matter where I position the tire, and it won't change the road force number.

 

[litesong]

Originally Posted by joekingcorvette
..... if you could find another car just like yours and swap the wheels and tires and go for a test drive it would tell you if it's the tire and wheel combination.....
We have a 2013 automatic Hyundai Elantra....... AND a 2016 manual Hyundai Elantra (same series). Swapped tires back & forth with excellent results.

 

[JHZR2]

Please get a vibration frequency monitoring app (I use vibrationanalysis on my iPhone), and get a true 60MPH sampling of the vibration. Knowing what frequency you're truly feeling will be helpful.

You'll get something like this if it's legit wheel and tire:

And this when fixed:

Note the y axis.