axjohn's LC question

[LCD]

axjohn, the other topic was closed, but refer to molakule's report http://www.lubecontrol.com/id19.html

per the report:

4.3 2-cycle and 4-cycle pre-lube. Lube Control can be used as a pre-lube for end-of-season storage or for pre-conditioning the rings and removing combustion deposits before startup. Remove spark plug and turn flywheel to place piston at bottom of stroke. Place 30-60 cc or 1-2 oz. of lube control into the spark plug hole. Replace spark plug and set overnight. This will soften carbon deposits on the piston and free stuck ring(s), as per experiment above. The next day, slowly turn flywheel to force lubricant onto the liner and into combustion chamber, in order to lubricate cylinder and free stuck rings. The lubricating and anti-rust properties of LC will insure that no rust forms on the rings as well. Either store or fire up engine. I used this procedure on a weed eater and two chainsaws. Engine will smoke for about 30 seconds after ignition so this must be done in an open area!

 

[axjohn]

lcd:
What about just putting a little LC on the combustion chamber tops, letting car sit overnight, then starting her up? My rings are not stuck (at least they SHOULDN'T be after Neutra oil treatment, AutoRx treatment, LC in oil, and continuous use of FP in gas). Just have some stubborn black crap (although softened) on piston crowns.

Interestingly enough, my tailpipe is absolutely clean!!! I know Saabs are clean-running cars,but I wiped the inside of the tailpipe with a paper towel and was amazed at how much junk DIDN'T show up on the towel.

Maybe almost all of the crap is removed from my engine already (1995 Saab 900S, 2.3 liter 4, 159,000 miles).

Thanks

PS: would just putting LC in combustion chamber 'hydrolock' the engine, or whatever it's called?

 

[MolaKule]

Axjohn,

If there is a thin film of gray or black carbon on the piston crowns, don't sweat it. It's when you get little mountain peaks of carbon or thick carbon mats on top of the piston that you will have pre-ignition problems.

LC can be used to soften this carbon, with FP in the fuel to blow it away.

Make SURE the LC has seeped past the rings so that you DO NOT get hydrolock.

 

[axjohn]

MolaKule:
Thanks! The piston crowns have a VERY THIN black (light black if there is such a thing!) film on them that easily scratches with a metal scribe.

I was concerned that this was a bad thing, and that the piston tops be totally clean/clear of carbon. As I said, the tailpipe is super clean (unbelieveably so), so I guess the GC, LC, and FP seem to be doing the trick.

Going to do the seal leak AutoRX treatment to try and stop a small rear main seal drip. I guess the initial Neutra purge, subsequent AutoRX treatment, GC, and LC seem to have cleaned the engine so well that I've revisited the rear main seal leak again.

Of course, Saab's are NOTORIOUS for rear main seal leaks, so I'm not blaming the aforementioned products. Sometimes products work so well that they uncover an underlying problem that they then get blamed for!