I have a 2017 Sontata 2.4L GDI Theta II and a 2021 Seltos 2.0L MPI Nu and they both get 3- 4K mile / 6 month OCI’s using various 5W30 synthetics and still burn oil . Both vehicles now switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 using the same 3 to 4K OCI’s , so I’ll see what happens after 4 to 5 OCI’s using Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30.
Awaiting new Hyundai Theta II Engine Install
- Thread starter snail415
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The bar is not low and convential oils haven’t met the bar in ions. Even “conventional” SN Pennzoil “yellow bottle” and Valvoline “Daily protection” were proven to be unadvertised blends to meet SN approval. Note that Valvoline no longer sells conventional in 5w30 and Pennzoil says “traditional base oil” but nowhere will you find conventional on the bottle or literature. Hyundai has made a few trash engines period. Per Hyundai techs dealers are installing up to 2-3 engines DAILY. They ALL can’t be running Supertech. The smart thing would be to get rid of the vehicle once fixed and avoid any Kia/Hyundia that have II (especially Theta II GDIs) in the name.
You can get a conventional (group II per the sds) in 10w-30 from Castrol and Havoline. But no 5Wxxxx in a long time which I assume due to API.
I would run the previously mentioned conventionals long before I would use anything from private equity owned Warren.
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I suppose it's a matter of opinion. If you compare it to VW 504, MB 229.51, et al., then the bar is quite low. VW has a 650 hour engine test for example. As mentioned, conventionals pass API. Synthetic blends even pass Dexos which is just an iteration on API and a very slightly higher bar.
We all know ACEA and euro manufacturer specs are more robust but if that is the standard why isolate Supertech? API Mobil/Valvoline/Castrol etc aren’t passing that either. Conventional 5w30s and thinner do not pass API. My only point is it’s not the oil and the fix ain’t in the oil. As a person who’s owned 3 consecutive VWs (VR6, 2.0L TFSI, 2.5L) and a BMW 335 N54 I can tell you first hand those euro spec’d oils sure don’t seem to be overcome any design flaws. Hyundia/Kia theta II issues, GM DOD lifter/bearing issues, Chrysler lifter issues, Toyota 3.5L bearing issues can not be fixed with oil choice. What are we doing here, make sure your warranty is in good standing, don’t be an early adopter and avoid engines with wide spread and/or expensive failure issues.
Agree with most of this and I’m largely ignorant. My view point, again mostly ignorant, is there are thousands of vehicles from all these various manufacturers from problematic years that go hundreds of thousands of miles, right? Is it luck of the draw? Does diligent maintenance make a difference?
It’s just an example of a lower tier API spec oil. It’s third party blended. Warren doesn’t produce any base oils or additive packages.
I think that’s up for debate. I think that would be the holy grail of testing. Putting Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil 1 Extended Performance through the Euro OEM tests would be very informative. All API spec oils are not alike. A great example is @GW. ’s experience with her Subaru. She burned oil at 60k on mostly Valvoline EP. Her friend with the same engine burned at 120k with Mobil 1 Extended Performance. Many examples of people with the same engine never burning with AMSOIL.
Not true. As @edyvw has pointed out, just one example, enthusiasts running better oils than the dealer Castrol 5W-40 didn’t burn oil in the EA888.2. People running AMSOIL don’t burn in Subarus. People running Valvoline Restore and Protect have fixed and prevented oil burning in Hyundais.
There are certainly design issues that can’t be fixed like the V35A grenading but others can be overcome with higher quality oil. If you deny that, then you’re just sticking your head in the sand.
I think this is great advice. Agreed.
I like the 3.5 in the Carnival. I dumped the FF at 1,200 and replaced with Mobil 1 Advanced Fuel Economy 0W-30 and ran that for about 4,400 miles. Just changed that recently for Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-30. I think I will run that year-round for a while now.
Why?
PE squeezes every penny they can out of everything. Private label is cheap to start and it’s not there name one it. So maybe they squeeze too far?
Agree there. PE is the worst and nothing but a leech.
Does that bear out in any technical data from oil analysis?
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Found the paperwork from our Hyundai warranty replacement. Full long block in August of ‘24 @ 144k miles. Car has 164k today.
My son short trips it and I keep it fed with 5w30 Valvoline Restore and Protect. Still comes up about a quart short by the end of 5k OCI. Otherwise runs great. I just did a 2nd drain/fill of MaxLife ATF and it shifts smoother than ever.
My son short trips it and I keep it fed with 5w30 Valvoline Restore and Protect. Still comes up about a quart short by the end of 5k OCI. Otherwise runs great. I just did a 2nd drain/fill of MaxLife ATF and it shifts smoother than ever.
Wow, in only 20,000 miles it's already burning a quart in 5k?? Did I read that right? Ouch.
Maybe not a whole quart but when we just changed the oil recently it was definitely low. He’s only had it a few months himself, for the first year+ after the replacement my daughter still had it out of state at college. Despite my pleadings to keep up with the oil changes who knows the real story there.
Still pretty quick to get the rings jammed up with carbon again.
My sons 2019 Hyundai Santa Fe with the 2.4L GDI was burning a little bit (maybe 1/2 quart every 4K.) Switched over to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W-30 ( I always use 5W-30) for 4 OCI's (4K), then to Valvoline High Mileage (the 150+ stuff) then back to Restore and Protect. THat will be his forever oil going forward. Every 5K. Hardly burns anything. Maybe an 1/8" below full line in 4K miles. Hopefully he stays good to go. He's almost at 80K on the engine.
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Right - those dummies!!! - all modern engines should be on ridiculously short OCI’s …
