Awaiting new Hyundai Theta II Engine Install

Hyundai/Kia "house oil" should be Valvoline Restore and Protect, especially in that model year spread where all the problem were. We know they are one of the worst manufactures for badly designed motors and ring pack coking. Be smart...... don't try to save $10 on an oil change, it is $29 at Walmart and if you buy TWO they deliver it free. It is Valvolines top oil, with some of the best wear#s a shelf oil is giving people. YET some people want to run Supertech to save $10. I just don't get it. And some Hyundai/Kia's take 6+ oil changes to clear up, thats how bad these engine can get coked up.
 
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Hyundai/Kia "house oil" should be Valvoline Restore and Protect, especially in that model year spread where all the problem were. We know they are one of the worst manufactures for badly designed motors and ring pack coking. Be smart...... don't try to save $10 on an oil change, it is $29 at Walmart and if you buy TWO they deliver it free. It is Valvolines top oil, with some of the best wear#s a shelf oil is giving people. YET some people want to run Supertech to save $10. I just don't get it. And some Hyundai/Kia's take 6+ oil changes to clear up, thats how bad these engine can get coked up.
I've got to agree with that. I posted up-thread about my sons 2019 Optima - he bought it at 86K miles and not too long after called to ask what the little red watering can on the dash meant (he knows a lot more now!) - turns out that model year only has an oil pressure sensor, not an oil level sensor. Yikes!

When we drained the oil to change it I had 2 thoughts.

1) What is this brown goop - Hersheys syrup?
2) Where's the rest? Only about 3 quarts came to of the sump.

Since then it's been nothing but Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w30 and it doesn't need topping up nearly half as much between oil changes.
 
My strategy is to use some name brand decent synthetic, 0/5W30, and do some actual engine break in, with some varying rpms and long engine braking down some hills. Seems to work as anything new we have bought hasn't burned oil, or really had any engine wear problems up to the 200-250k miles before they get scrapped for rust...
 
Hyundai/Kia "house oil" should be Valvoline Restore and Protect, especially in that model year spread where all the problem were. We know they are one of the worst manufactures for badly designed motors and ring pack coking. Be smart...... don't try to save $10 on an oil change, it is $29 at Walmart and if you buy TWO they deliver it free. It is Valvolines top oil, with some of the best wear#s a shelf oil is giving people. YET some people want to run Supertech to save $10. I just don't get it. And some Hyundai/Kia's take 6+ oil changes to clear up, thats how bad these engine can get coked up.
My response isn’t to debate or challenge, but to genuinely question. If Super Tech is inferior, yet it meets GL-7/API-SQ specs, what’s so bad about it? If it simply doesn’t have the brand panache or doesn’t have the pedigree, is it really bad if it’s cheaper and allows for 3-5k OCIs? Now, if it’s an additive package issue (esp for the given application here), I’d like forum members to pile-on.

I think what surprises me has to do with watching LSJ compare cheaper brands to high-end ones, and in the end hold the cheaper ones in high regard. Thoughts?
 
My response isn’t to debate or challenge, but to genuinely question. If Super Tech is inferior, yet it meets GL-7/API-SQ specs, what’s so bad about it? If it simply doesn’t have the brand panache or doesn’t have the pedigree, is it really bad if it’s cheaper and allows for 3-5k OCIs? Now, if it’s an additive package issue (esp for the given application here), I’d like forum members to pile-on.

I think what surprises me has to do with watching LSJ compare cheaper brands to high-end ones, and in the end hold the cheaper ones in high regard. Thoughts?
It’s not that Supertech is bad. It’s just certain engines/conditions require oils that surpass GF7/SQ which doesn’t set the bar very high. LSJR has performance tested oils that far exceed these approvals/specs.

Personally I’d be using Valvoline Restore and Protect in a Kia/Hyundia engine to keep those pistons and rings clean to avoid oil consumption problems.
 
I've posted this before, but I was impressed that Hyundai put a replacement (used) engine assembly in my nieces' car for a minimal charge at 160,000 miles after it blew up. Third owner, not many maintenance records. Not sure if this was funded by the dealer, factory, or both. Makes me think they are serious about keeping customers.
 
My response isn’t to debate or challenge, but to genuinely question. If Super Tech is inferior, yet it meets GL-7/API-SQ specs, what’s so bad about it? If it simply doesn’t have the brand panache or doesn’t have the pedigree, is it really bad if it’s cheaper and allows for 3-5k OCIs? Now, if it’s an additive package issue (esp for the given application here), I’d like forum members to pile-on.

I think what surprises me has to do with watching LSJ compare cheaper brands to high-end ones, and in the end hold the cheaper ones in high regard. Thoughts?
It's not about what Supertech doesn't have, but about what Valvoline Restore and Protect has.

It has the ability it turns out to keep things clean and piston rings unstuck.

With our engines having an apparent habit to get their piston rings stuck (you don't have to go through all my threads but my v6 was religiously fed on Royal Purple full synthetic from day one, at intervals under 5k, and still developed an oil drinking habit and an oil stick and oil cap the color of chocolate), an oil that specifically keeps rings clean is a must.

Doesn't hurt that it's not especially expensive.
 
My response isn’t to debate or challenge, but to genuinely question. If Super Tech is inferior, yet it meets GL-7/API-SQ specs, what’s so bad about it? If it simply doesn’t have the brand panache or doesn’t have the pedigree, is it really bad if it’s cheaper and allows for 3-5k OCIs? Now, if it’s an additive package issue (esp for the given application here), I’d like forum members to pile-on.

I think what surprises me has to do with watching LSJ compare cheaper brands to high-end ones, and in the end hold the cheaper ones in high regard. Thoughts?
Hyundai/KIa have some problematic engines, being both design and probably a bit by the way they "tune them" IE ECU fuel mapping/ignition/cam phasing. Probably 1st or 2nd of the worst of the top 20 automotive manufacture brands that carry some form of this issue. While there are hundreds of thousands of outliers that run with no issues. There are a huge chunk of them that will be problematic, because of the above issues, that are over the top compared to other manufactures in occurrences and degree.

Example my car, 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T one of their better designed and less problematic engines by the way. The car went from a stage 1 tune to a stage 2 tune around 10,000 to 15,000 miles. It has 72,000 now. I was playing around with different oils Mobil 1 vanilla, Mobil1 Extended, AMSOIL Signature Series, Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum/Euro L, Mobil 1 Euro, Castrol Euro, Quaker State Euro, Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 (old formula), Motul 8100-Clean 5w-40 Gen 1 & Gen 2, Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro. (Motul V300 as another cleaner AFTER the Redline incident below.) I change oil @ or before 3,000 miles with all of these oils through the life of my car. Tuned Hyundai/Kia engines are VERY hard on oil, my oil is blackish at 3,000 miles. Yes. I know black does not mean bad, but keeping this engine together and clean with 23 psi and it getting fully thrashed on......cost of doing business. I am past "rough service". My car was using Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for the last 1.5 years just before trying Redline Performance Euro.

I live in Minnesota (unfortunately). I am a short tripper and I warm my car up for 3-5 mins every time I start it, even in summer depending on temperature to expand my very short pistons a bit, too many Hy/Kia's with worn skirts. I had very bad fuel dilution very early on and tracked it for wear because I knew what I was getting into before buying it new. I had 10 Polaris Labs oil samples kit before I took ownership because I knew I had a diluter from day 1, and it was. At it's height I was adding 1.5qt of fuel/moisture during winter. I would check my oil at 1,500 miles and suck out oil of the dipstick as it was .75 qts high and dump at 3,000 with the same gain again. High pressure fuel pump leaks were never an issue as I monitored it, with holding pressure after turn of. Then one day I tried Redline Performance 5w-30, I went to suck out my usual .75 gain and it was dead nuts on the full mark, couldn't believe what I saw. My fuel dilution was gone. The higher Ester in this oil had to of broke up the ring jam. I think it had to be the oil ring too, that would allow flooding of fuel past the rings and into the oil. I did not have overly high wear# so I just eventually did not worry about fuel dilution. Some people here where all worried and rightfully so I guess, on theirs. I saw no over the top wear so I thought it was what it was, till it went away.

So now I use Valvoline Restore & Protect during late fall, winter, and early spring to keep my ring pack clean and during summer I was using Motul 8100-Clean 5w-40 Gen 2 with 1 Qt 40wt HPL engine cleaner every other change to keep the rings clean. I have since went this summer to Valvoline Euro 5w-40 to keep closer the same manufacture add packs IF they are I have no idea but better then just guessing with another brand. As I stupidly cocktail my fall/winter/spring Valvoline Restore and Protect with 1qt Valvoline Euro 5w-40 to increase HTHS #s since my car is a turbo car. I refuse to ever have jammed rings again and Valvoline Restore and Protect is the right oil for the job especially on Hyundai/Kia engines where even the top tier Walmart shelf oil and boutiques have issues with keeping ring packs un jammed. And yes, I have pulled away with time, that I need any form of boutique oil to keep this motor healthy, I am only doing shelf oil now a days. Especially with certain oils that fully clean ring packs better/same then the best Ester/AN boutiques. And my car I think??? can be an example that top tier oils do not mean you have a truly CLEAN ring pack, unless you pick one that can do the ring cleaning job it was designed for.
 
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If Super Tech is inferior, yet it meets GL-7/API-SQ specs, what’s so bad about it?
It's because the bar for API approval is so low. It's not hard to get that approval. Conventional oil can do it. Rest assured a cheap oil like Supertech will just barely meet the approval because margins are so low. Maybe that's good enough for your car, maybe not. Time will tell.
 
It’s not that Supertech is bad. It’s just certain engines/conditions require oils that surpass GF7/SQ which doesn’t set the bar very high. LSJR has performance tested oils that far exceed these approvals/specs.

Personally I’d be using Valvoline Restore and Protect in a Kia/Hyundia engine to keep those pistons and rings clean to avoid oil consumption problems.

It's because the bar for API approval is so low. It's not hard to get that approval. Conventional oil can do it. Rest assured a cheap oil like Supertech will just barely meet the approval because margins are so low. Maybe that's good enough for your car, maybe not. Time will tell.
That’s the response I was looking-for. Thanks.
 
The reason I never even considered a Hyundai when I bought my Mazda!
Hindsight is always 20/20. Case in-point, I bought a Mazda3 Premium manual last Fall. The Hyundai was the right purchase at the time; scored it for $18k, and it’s been paid-off for 5 years. For getting 9 trouble-free years out of it, I can’t really complain.
 
I would also error towards a thicker 5W30 or 0W30 synthetic oil with a HTHS of 3.5 or so to help provide a little more film thickness for those 2.4L rod bearings . Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 is slightly less than 3.5 but puts up great wear numbers . My first choice is Mobil 1 ESP 0w30.
 
Hyundai/KIa have some problematic engines, being both design and probably a bit by the way they "tune them" IE ECU fuel mapping/ignition/cam phasing. Probably 1st or 2nd of the worst of the top 20 automotive manufacture brands that carry some form of this issue. While there are hundreds of thousands of outliers that run with no issues. There are a huge chunk of them that will be problematic, because of the above issues, that are over the top compared to other manufactures in occurrences and degree.

Example my car, 2018 Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T one of their better designed and less problematic engines by the way. The car went from a stage 1 tune to a stage 2 tune around 10,000 to 15,000 miles. It has 72,000 now. I was playing around with different oils Mobil 1 vanilla, Mobil1 Extended, AMSOIL Signature Series, Pennzoil Ultra/Platinum/Euro L, Mobil 1 Euro, Castrol Euro, Quaker State Euro, Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 (old formula), Motul 8100-Clean 5w-40 Gen 1 & Gen 2, Redline Performance 5w-30 Euro. (Motul V300 as another cleaner AFTER the Redline incident below.) I change oil @ or before 3,000 miles with all of these oils through the life of my car. Tuned Hyundai/Kia engines are VERY hard on oil, my oil is blackish at 3,000 miles. Yes. I know black does not mean bad, but keeping this engine together and clean with 23 psi and it getting fully thrashed on......cost of doing business. I am past "rough service". My car was using Mobil 1 ESP 5w-30 for the last 1.5 years just before trying Redline Performance Euro.

I live in Minnesota (unfortunately). I am a short tripper and I warm my car up for 3-5 mins every time I start it, even in summer depending on temperature to expand my very short pistons a bit, too many Hy/Kia's with worn skirts. I had very bad fuel dilution very early on and tracked it for wear because I knew what I was getting into before buying it new. I had 10 Polaris Labs oil samples kit before I took ownership because I knew I had a diluter from day 1, and it was. At it's height I was adding 1.5qt of fuel/moisture during winter. I would check my oil at 1,500 miles and suck out oil of the dipstick as it was .75 qts high and dump at 3,000 with the same gain again. High pressure fuel pump leaks were never an issue as I monitored it, with holding pressure after turn of. Then one day I tried Redline Performance 5w-30, I went to suck out my usual .75 gain and it was dead nuts on the full mark, couldn't believe what I saw. My fuel dilution was gone. The higher Ester in this oil had to of broke up the ring jam. I think it had to be the oil ring too, that would allow flooding of fuel past the rings and into the oil. I did not have overly high wear# so I just eventually did not worry about fuel dilution. Some people here where all worried and rightfully so I guess, on theirs. I saw no over the top wear so I thought it was what it was, till it went away.

So now I use Valvoline Restore & Protect during late fall, winter, and early spring to keep my ring pack clean and during summer I was using Motul 8100-Clean 5w-40 Gen 2 with 1 Qt 40wt HPL engine cleaner every other change to keep the rings clean. I have since went this summer to Valvoline Euro 5w-40 to keep closer the same manufacture add packs IF they are I have no idea but better then just guessing with another brand. As I stupidly cocktail my fall/winter/spring Valvoline Restore and Protect with 1qt Valvoline Euro 5w-40 to increase HTHS #s since my car is a turbo car. I refuse to ever have jammed rings again and Valvoline Restore and Protect is the right oil for the job especially on Hyundai/Kia engines where even the top tier Walmart shelf oil and boutiques have issues with keeping ring packs un jammed. And yes, I have pulled away with time, that I need any form of boutique oil to keep this motor healthy, I am only doing shelf oil now a days. Especially with certain oils that fully clean ring packs better/same then the best Ester/AN boutiques. And my car I think??? can be an example that top tier oils do not mean you have a truly CLEAN ring pack, unless you pick one that can do the ring cleaning job it was designed for.
Valvoline Restore and Protect also has the benefit of producing very low wear numbers which may help protect Hyundai / Kia less than stellar rod bearings.
 
Anecdote:
Our Theta ll's (had 3) didn't really care what oil was used so long as it was 5w30, changed every 3-4k miles religiously. Traded them all in running great.
2.0T - 240k miles
2.4 - 208k miles
2.4 - 188k miles
The Nu and Gamma engines are the ones that burned oil though right? The Theta II just grenaded right? (I'm not sure. I'm not as familiar with the Hyundai engines.)

Those are good runs on a problematic engine. What did you mainly use?
 
Yep, a good chunk of Hyundai/Kia problems are it's owners.
I think that is the same issue with Nissan. My gf had one when we met, and I was nervous, and I've taken over maintenance, and we've had 75,000 trouble free miles... Runs great. Even pulled a loaded trailer across the country. (That said, the CVT could explode tomorrow. 🤣 )
 
The Nu and Gamma engines are the ones that burned oil though right? The Theta II just grenaded right? (I'm not sure. I'm not as familiar with the Hyundai engines.)

Those are good runs on a problematic engine. What did you mainly use?
They all burned. The new Smartstream engines have been much more stout (out since 2019 or so, in some makes). All them mostly got Valvoline Synpower / Advanced Full Synthetic.
 
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