Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters
- Thread starter Jim 5
- Start date
- Status
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
It really shouldn't make any difference. There are a couple of schools of thought on it, though. The rebuild trade (not all of them) put the filter post cooler to assure that any debris (that probably warranted the rebuild) that may have been snagged by the cooler ..doesn't re-enter the trans after a rebuild. This would naturally lead us to believe that cleaning the cooler isn't always effective ..or even performed, in a typical rebuild. There are others that insist (they may also be in the trade) that putting the filter pre-cooler assures that no debris enters the cooler as that allows a settling/accumulation point for converter material to collect.
At a certain point in a continuous cycle however ..it really doesn't make that much of a difference. Having the filter at all trumps the other effects of where it's placed in the circuit. Most don't have one at all ..and are effectively running naked.
At a certain point in a continuous cycle however ..it really doesn't make that much of a difference. Having the filter at all trumps the other effects of where it's placed in the circuit. Most don't have one at all ..and are effectively running naked.
I think the next question to ask is hih is better for a tranny Hydraulic or bypass
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Well, if you take into account Schultz's results with a very fine hydraulic filter, you could probably use an Amsoil bypass filter if you removed the restrictor as a full flow.
They will perform different functions. A bypass will assure the cleanest fluid. A ff will add additional security if there's some mass infusion of material that may or may not have anything to do with fluid condition.
I would just plumb a bypass across the cooler circuit to allow the differential to drive it ...then throw a magnefine in-line. The bypass will assure that the magnefine will stay clean ..probably forever, and you have a compact safety net in case of issues that may damage components that otherwise may require no service/rebuild to allow the trans to be 100% functional.
They will perform different functions. A bypass will assure the cleanest fluid. A ff will add additional security if there's some mass infusion of material that may or may not have anything to do with fluid condition.
I would just plumb a bypass across the cooler circuit to allow the differential to drive it ...then throw a magnefine in-line. The bypass will assure that the magnefine will stay clean ..probably forever, and you have a compact safety net in case of issues that may damage components that otherwise may require no service/rebuild to allow the trans to be 100% functional.
A somewhat old post...but
On newer ford rangers if the fluid is below
50 degrees F. The transmission wont lock
the torque converter. I'm ASSuming other cars
and trucks are similar because rangers have
alot of.... older designed parts on em.
On newer ford rangers if the fluid is below
50 degrees F. The transmission wont lock
the torque converter. I'm ASSuming other cars
and trucks are similar because rangers have
alot of.... older designed parts on em.
My Taurus locks the TC on even the coldest days right from start up, but that's how it shifts normally. If you're easy on the pedal, it starts in 1st, then to 2nd, shifts to 3thd, locks TC, shifts to 4th, then locks TC, for what appears like six shifts.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
I think I'm going to bump this to the top.
I know this doesn't be long here, but I just had a look at my engine bay and the only way I can fit any form of external filter is to place the battery in the boot of the car.
#@$%! these compact Japanese cars.
I remembered it was a real effort to put in a descent size oil cooler.
so for the moment even though I have the required components I will have to postpone this little project and move the battery first.
but at least I have all the info now.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Look behind the bumper ..and forward of the wheel wells. Also, just look for "space" in the engine bay. As long as you have a spacial cavity, that is void of the rotating parts, you just plumb and lash with zip ties. It's a little weird before you get used to the idea ..but quite a few have no hard mounting points for anything in terms of auxillary filtration. Things like the master cylinder ..etc..etc.
I have a perma cool remote mount with a Pure one Filter on it. Should I get a filter with a bypass valve in it? Do I risk my tranny with this filter?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
I too am wondering what PureOne you're using on a Permacool mount that doesn't have a bypass valve
Now if you've purchased an adapter and are using a hydaulic filter on a Permcool mount, then I can see you having a filter on there that doesn't have a bypass valve. Many hydraulic filters don't have a bypass valve. It's often found in the mount itself.
I'm using the PureOne 30001 on a permacool mount post-cooler. Seems OK. Its got 4X the surface area of the OEM engine oil filter passing a less viscous fluid. I can't imagine it being too restrictive. And I believe the 30001 has a 11-15 PSI bypass built in. I don't see issue here, did I miss something?
bypass valves are a good idea.
Check out this setup.... http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=49
Pricey, but seems well designed, and there is a restriction gauge that can be added to indicate when the filter needs to be changed.
Rusty
Pricey, but seems well designed, and there is a restriction gauge that can be added to indicate when the filter needs to be changed.
Rusty
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Yes, it's just a bit pricey. A fuel pressure gauge (0-15) works ..and McMaster sells the gauge for about $12 (one that has the green/yellow/read zones). The mount is a standard hydraulic mount available at Northerntool for $20 delivered with filter. The braided 5/16 hose is a bit salty ..but rubber alternatives are about $30/25ft delivered. Bushing reducers are $1-2 each at The Home Depot and 5/16 X (?) brass hose barbs are cheap by the dozen (5 or 10 to a package) in Granger or McMaster.
But, it is a clean package ..but someone is making a really good buck on it.
But, it is a clean package ..but someone is making a really good buck on it.
I was looking on McMaster Carr and found a mount/filter with a 5 micron absolute filter for ~$62. Extra fiberglass media elements are ~$44.
This is getting down to bypass spec's in a full flow. Since I live in a dessert I'd like to get as fine a filter as possible to keep silicate out of the fluid. Would the 43psi bypass setting be a problem?
The unit is ~4" in Diameter and ~7" long so it is a good size filter. Any comments from those that know more than I?
This is getting down to bypass spec's in a full flow. Since I live in a dessert I'd like to get as fine a filter as possible to keep silicate out of the fluid. Would the 43psi bypass setting be a problem?
The unit is ~4" in Diameter and ~7" long so it is a good size filter. Any comments from those that know more than I?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
I'd email or call all the various filter manufacturers and ask what's the finest filter that they offer in 1-12 thread ..then see which ones have an approx 2.8/2.4 gasket. Then I'd go and buy the Northerntool hydraulic mount for $15 w/o filter or $20 w/filter and then call fleetfilter up and xref the fancy filter that Baldwin or Donaldson or Wix pukes out and buy from them.
That's $44 for the filter alone. Not cheap.
You might consider the filters right below it. There a 3um nominal w/mount is only $30.xx with replacements for $15.xx. These should be the same heads that are offered on Northerntool ..but NT lists them as 35 gpm. They have a 15psid bypass.
That's $44 for the filter alone. Not cheap.
You might consider the filters right below it. There a 3um nominal w/mount is only $30.xx with replacements for $15.xx. These should be the same heads that are offered on Northerntool ..but NT lists them as 35 gpm. They have a 15psid bypass.
Thanks again for the info Gary.
The Northern unit looks like the way to go. I think I'd go ahead and get the one with the filter, run it for a while to catch the "big" stuff, and then try to find a finer filter as you suggested.
FWIW, I contated Northern and they said that Filtration Products is the supplier for their units. As best I can tell, their unit is a 30 series filter and the 10 micron rating is the only info Northern has. The FP filter page does not show a 10M rated filter, but the FPE 30-03N might be close. I've contacted FP to try and find out what filter it is. If they respond, I'll post the info.
The Northern unit looks like the way to go. I think I'd go ahead and get the one with the filter, run it for a while to catch the "big" stuff, and then try to find a finer filter as you suggested.
FWIW, I contated Northern and they said that Filtration Products is the supplier for their units. As best I can tell, their unit is a 30 series filter and the 10 micron rating is the only info Northern has. The FP filter page does not show a 10M rated filter, but the FPE 30-03N might be close. I've contacted FP to try and find out what filter it is. If they respond, I'll post the info.
- Status
Similar threads
