Aux. Spin on Transmission Filters

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because i dont know what kinds of pressures those lines have to hold.

Fairly low, I believe ..but trans cooler lines should be rated very high in both temp and working pressure.
 
cool, thanks. i was worried i was gonna blow up a filter or something!!!

i found some quick disconnects in the throw out bin at work! Im going to convert my fittings in my radiator to the quick disconnects, so i can change the entire fluid as easilly as i can change my filter!
 
There are a lot of options on that Pall setup, and the beta numbers sound amazing. Are you running it off the main line, and using it’s bypass filter to flow if it can’t keep up? What is the part number on that piece. There are about 500 different ways to set it up from the link you used. Drain back valve or not?
 
The exact numbers I'm using are:
Full assembly with filter:
HZ7400B12KZRALL
This stands for: PTFE filter gasket, 3/4" npt ports, 2.5µm filter, 4" filter, 25psi bypass valve, 15psi electrical single pole double through switch.

It's a very heavy cast iron housing with the bypass valve built in, and a bolt on pressure switch.

Replacement Filters:
HZ7400B12KPRALL
These are: PTFE gasket, 4", 2.5µm
These filters don't fit anyone else's head unit that I'm aware of. The inside thread diameter is something like 1.25" or 1.5" and the seal gasket isn't a flat seal, it's angled about 20°.

The filter is running as a full flow filter off the cooling return line circuit. It doesn't use an anti-drain-back valve, just a 25 psi bypass.

So far it's working great. My fluid is still clear red as it was out of the bottle. Before at this many miles on the fluid it was dark red and smelled and I haven't changed my driving habit's.
 
Would it be ok to have a filter setup in the trans. cooling circuit BEFORE the cooler? That way, the stock and any additional cooler should be ok to re-use in the event the transmission lets loose some heavy wear metal or clutch material if and when it finally gives out. I have seen situations where the cooler could not be effectively flushed out and had to be scrapped due to excessive debris trapped inside. Also, would a 15 psi bypass be high enough?
 
I would say yes it's fine to have a filter for the trans in the circuit before the cooler. I have this configuration on both my Subarus and it works fine. 15psi seems to be a common number I see in these forums as being a good bypass value

I put the filters before the cooler because it helps keep junk out of the coolers plus I figure the oil is thinner when hot and should be easier to filter. Not sure if it is 'better' filtering.

On the 00 Outback it is the factory configuration - there is a filter that looks like a small engine oil filter right on the side case of the AT which is before the outlet to the cooler circuit.

On the 96 Legacy I added a full flow engine oil filter before the cooler. I rely on the full flow filter's built in bypass in case needed although I highly doubt it ever bypasses.
 
I added a Frantz to my Saturn transmission and use the flow from the transmission test port and drain the filtered oil into the top cover of the transmission. I plumed a flow restrictor into the test port, then a tee and threaded the TTS sensor on one end of the tee. I calculated the flow restrictor by noting that a 1/16" flow restrictor is for 30wt motor oil at 40psi. The pressure of the transaxle fluid peaks at 160psi. Because the tranny fluid is basically a 20wt oil it would be approximately 50% thinner and would require 50% more restriction. Multiplying these two together 4 and 1.50 to get 6 times the flow restriction of a 1/16" flow restrictor. I calculated the flow restrictor diameter needed for my transmission to be: (1/16")/(square root of 6) = 0.0255".

The above info would be useful for someone who wants to install a bypass filter with high density media such as the Amsoil spin on bypass filter.
 
Interesting. When I measured the opening on the PB-80A exit restrictor ..it was 0.029 ..very close to your figure.
 
Jim,
Honestly, leave that transmission alone. Let it fail. Most of them fail before 100,000 miles. Why would you want to prolong the life of the unit? If it fails on you at 110,000 miles (example), you'll be stuck with the bill, which is easily $2000 for a rebuild.

If you want to add a filter, wait until you have the remanufactured unit installed.
 
That's the plan Michael. I'm going to stick with the recommended transmission fluid interval at an acura dealer each time (which, based on what I've seen, is way too long).

My hope is to have the transmission blow up just before the warranty expires...the problem is, my wife is just too gentle on the car.

I take it out once a week and put it through its paces in manual shift mode...lots of hard 1-2 shifts. Is this the right wear to ensure the typical failure occurs?
 
quote:
I take it out once a week and put it through its paces in manual shift mode...lots of hard 1-2 shifts. Is this the right wear to ensure the typical failure occurs?
Click to expand...
Doesn't seem to matter for some reason. On AcuraZine, both hard AND gentle drivers have had their transmissions fail.
dunno.gif
 
You want your factory trans to last as long as possible! It's the best one you'll ever have in your car. The vast majority of reman'd FWD trannys are junk. I've bought too many to even remember. Had an Oldsmobile 98 that went through 7 GM reman'd transmissions in 6 months...lol! Every single one had something put together wrong inside.

If all it takes is an external filter to keep the trans clean and alive then I say do it. I've added Amsoil bypass filters to all the trannys in my fleet of taxis and it was the best decision I ever made. Havn't had a failure since and even brought a couple back from the brink of replacement due to clutch material clogging the solenoids.
 
What has made sense to me that I've heard from Gary Allan and others is that transmission oil can be extremely cold without the after-effects that plague cold motor oil. This is because transmission oil doesn't experience blow-by gasses and thus doesn't collect water and form sludge when the oil is cold. With a bypass filter on your transmission it will absorb the scant amount of condensation deposited inside the transmission. Then you can attach as large a cooler as you want and cool it as low as possible. The general consensus is that the less heat buildup that exists inside the transmission the longer the transmission lasts.
 
mjo ..that's the consesus of opinions that I've heard. Generally speaking ..most that degrades in a trans is due to heat/oxidation. It prematurely ages materials and the fluid components. Although I'm sure someone could get it that cold ..practically speaking ..there's not much of a downside to cooler fluid. In this case, the lower the better.
 
mjo, Gary, sweet info! Do you know if any vehicles AT's won't shift into overdrive or torque converter lockup or something until the ATF reaches a certain temp? If yes, maybe a cooler at least too big a cooler could delay this action? Probably not a big deal other than maybe mileage?

I ask because on my 2000 Outback I jammed an Amsoil dualguard mount with two of the new Amsoil EaBP110's on it under the fender and plumbed it in before the cooler. Seems to be working fine but it added a gallon ATF capacity and I notice now it takes several more miles on the highway after startup for the RPM's to drop to the normal range. I can feel the torque converter lockup or something at that point. I'm pretty sure it's not just the ECU going closed loop. Thanks-Louis
patriot.gif
 
I've mentioned this in several discussions on the matter of trans cooling. The general consensus is still that the cooler ..the better.
 
quote:
I ask because on my 2000 Outback I jammed an Amsoil dualguard mount with two of the new Amsoil EaBP110's on it under the fender and plumbed it in before the cooler. Seems to be working fine but it added a gallon ATF capacity and I notice now it takes several more miles on the highway after startup for the RPM's to drop to the normal range. I can feel the torque converter lockup or something at that point. I'm pretty sure it's not just the ECU going closed loop. Thanks-Louis [Patriot]
Click to expand...
Here's my guess. The ECU locks the torque converter when the engine reaches a certain temp. Probably the reason for the delay in the lockup in your car is because you stuck the large filter before the cooler in your car. The ATF is getting cooled by the filter and once it reaches the cooler it is cold. This would be fine if it weren't for the fact that (I'm assuming) the trans cooler is part of your radiator. Am I right? Thus your ATF is cooling your engine coolant. Use an external cooler and you won't have that problem.
 
Good question mjo. I wasn't sure so I checked the service manual and it says the ATF temperature sensor signal '...is used for inhibition of lock-up' and 'release of OD'. I couldn't find any reference for lockup or OD releated to engine temperature.

The ATF cooler is at the bottom of the radiator. The addition of the extra gallon ATF capacity would result in longer warm up time for the ATF fluid but I don't think it would impact the coolant warm up in the engine because there's really no flow through the radiator until the thermostat opens which doesn't happen until the coolant in the engine is at temp.

PermaCool has a chart similar to the TDI chart showing AT life expectancies at various temps.
 
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