Automatic transmission question
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An AT can act funny when it is cold out. In fact in certain cars the torque converter won't lock up in some of them until the fluid reaches a certain temp. HTH
One of the reasons people use synthetic ATF. ATF is relatively thin in the first place, but still without the engine heat conventional ATF can take a bit to get to a decent viscosity.
I have the 2001 version of this car and yes, it seems normal on mine. I use the Amsoil ATF and just take it easy for the first few minutes. 205k+ and still shifting fine despite the first 1 or two shifts on cold days being a bit slow.
Change the ATf to synthetic like Amsoil or another compatible with you factory spec.
Thanks
Anyone used Synthetic or specifically Amsoil in a Honda transmission for a lot of years and miles? Is the thing about using Honda only ATF just marketing or is there anything to it? I would probably wait until I am past the warranty to switch which will be in 2000 miles.
Anyone used Synthetic or specifically Amsoil in a Honda transmission for a lot of years and miles? Is the thing about using Honda only ATF just marketing or is there anything to it? I would probably wait until I am past the warranty to switch which will be in 2000 miles.
Bet if you get one of those adhesive oil pan/transmission heating pads and keep it plugged in all the time it would shift fine. But not worth the effort IMO. At most if it is really bad, go to syn fluid. You really should run nothing less than a ATF on the qualilty level of Redline ATF if you want the transmission to last. My Aerostar has 145,000 miles and has run Redline for the past 40,000, prior to that was M1. The Aerostar takes a long time to do the first 1-2 shift on a cold start, revs higher and hangs for a while, so not sure the fluid change will matter for that. But then again, that may be because the Aerostar has a vacuum shift modulator--talk about old tech!
JHZR2
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Youre in MA, how cold is it? There is such a thing as "morning sickness", but a new vehicle shouldnt have it. That said, Honda ATs are about the worst thing Ive seen when it comes to quality and longevity.
You have the combination of to issues:
-synthetic ATFs will flow better and help
-Synthetic ATFs likely are not approved as Honda ATF, and thus may create warranty issues (something Id be concerned with)
You have the combination of to issues:
-synthetic ATFs will flow better and help
-Synthetic ATFs likely are not approved as Honda ATF, and thus may create warranty issues (something Id be concerned with)
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
Bet if you get one of those adhesive oil pan/transmission heating pads and keep it plugged in all the time it would shift fine. But not worth the effort IMO. At most if it is really bad, go to syn fluid. You really should run nothing less than a ATF on the qualilty level of Redline ATF if you want the transmission to last. My Aerostar has 145,000 miles and has run Redline for the past 40,000, prior to that was M1. The Aerostar takes a long time to do the first 1-2 shift on a cold start, revs higher and hangs for a while, so not sure the fluid change will matter for that. But then again, that may be because the Aerostar has a vacuum shift modulator--talk about old tech!
My Aerostar does the same thing, now with 180,000 miles. I'm servicing it tomorrow, 30,000 miles went quick!
OP-Synthetic fluid is very good, I've used it in many cars. Having said that certain transmissions need a little time to warm up no matter what fluid you use. If you change it out make sure you add a fluid that is Honda approved. Having worked for Honda for a few years some of their transmissions can be a little fussy with what ATF you use in them. As JHZR2 said, you have a warranty to contend with.
Bet if you get one of those adhesive oil pan/transmission heating pads and keep it plugged in all the time it would shift fine. But not worth the effort IMO. At most if it is really bad, go to syn fluid. You really should run nothing less than a ATF on the qualilty level of Redline ATF if you want the transmission to last. My Aerostar has 145,000 miles and has run Redline for the past 40,000, prior to that was M1. The Aerostar takes a long time to do the first 1-2 shift on a cold start, revs higher and hangs for a while, so not sure the fluid change will matter for that. But then again, that may be because the Aerostar has a vacuum shift modulator--talk about old tech!
My Aerostar does the same thing, now with 180,000 miles. I'm servicing it tomorrow, 30,000 miles went quick!
OP-Synthetic fluid is very good, I've used it in many cars. Having said that certain transmissions need a little time to warm up no matter what fluid you use. If you change it out make sure you add a fluid that is Honda approved. Having worked for Honda for a few years some of their transmissions can be a little fussy with what ATF you use in them. As JHZR2 said, you have a warranty to contend with.
It is quite likely PROGRAMMED to behave that way, I wouldn't consider changing to a non-factory fluid unless you've already got a LOT of miles on it. The very first electronic transmission I had (1993) did a number of things differently when cold (and I'm talking Texas cold, at that)- delayed upshifts, no torque convertor lock-up, slower/gentler shifts. All of this behavior was programmed into the system to speed warmup and reduce stresses on cold parts.
I'm making an ASSumption that Honda does the same sort of thing here. Their automatics have a pretty horrible reputation, but I would still expect to see the behavior you're describing on a new vehicle, and I wouldn't worry about it, unless like I said, you're already pushing 60, 80, 100k miles or so.
I'm making an ASSumption that Honda does the same sort of thing here. Their automatics have a pretty horrible reputation, but I would still expect to see the behavior you're describing on a new vehicle, and I wouldn't worry about it, unless like I said, you're already pushing 60, 80, 100k miles or so.
Even with Amsoil ATF in my ’00 3.2TL’s transmission, I’ve had to let the car warm up for at least 2-3 min in this cold weather. If I don’t give it an extended warmup, the first 1-2 shift gets delayed (higher rpm) and the shift is very firm but after that first shift, the transmission shifted normally. Last two times this past cold weekend when I didn’t give it a good enough warm up, I got the CEL when it did the hard 1-2 shift; AutoZone read the code as P1750 which was a “hydraulic valve fault” or something like that. Disconnecting the battery cleared the fault. This morning I gave the car an extended warmup (while I scraped ice off two cars) and the car shifted fine; the first 1-2 shift was a little firmer than a normal fully warmed up transmission shift but not enough to cause the CEL.
MMO website states that you can run MMO on a trans!
My 'o8 LX does the same thing if I drive without warming up for a few minutes when it's single digits outside. I was tempted to switch ATF to Amsoil but chickened out because it's still under warrenty. I'm also not convinced that the Z1 is not unique in some way for Honda transmissions.
Not a Honda but my 08 Jeep TC won't lock up until it reaches a certain temp. They must have gotten calls about it and it states in the OM to expect it in cold weather operation.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
It is quite likely PROGRAMMED to behave that way, I wouldn't consider changing to a non-factory fluid unless you've already got a LOT of miles on it. The very first electronic transmission I had (1993) did a number of things differently when cold (and I'm talking Texas cold, at that)- delayed upshifts, no torque convertor lock-up, slower/gentler shifts. All of this behavior was programmed into the system to speed warmup and reduce stresses on cold parts.
I'm making an ASSumption that Honda does the same sort of thing here. Their automatics have a pretty horrible reputation, but I would still expect to see the behavior you're describing on a new vehicle, and I wouldn't worry about it, unless like I said, you're already pushing 60, 80, 100k miles or so.
+1. Yeah they normally don't lockup until a certain temp is reached and shifts can be delayed in really cold temps. I hate how it holds on to the lower speeds makes the engine have to rev higher to maintain the same mph lol.
It is quite likely PROGRAMMED to behave that way, I wouldn't consider changing to a non-factory fluid unless you've already got a LOT of miles on it. The very first electronic transmission I had (1993) did a number of things differently when cold (and I'm talking Texas cold, at that)- delayed upshifts, no torque convertor lock-up, slower/gentler shifts. All of this behavior was programmed into the system to speed warmup and reduce stresses on cold parts.
I'm making an ASSumption that Honda does the same sort of thing here. Their automatics have a pretty horrible reputation, but I would still expect to see the behavior you're describing on a new vehicle, and I wouldn't worry about it, unless like I said, you're already pushing 60, 80, 100k miles or so.
+1. Yeah they normally don't lockup until a certain temp is reached and shifts can be delayed in really cold temps. I hate how it holds on to the lower speeds makes the engine have to rev higher to maintain the same mph lol.
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
MMO website states that you can run MMO on a trans!
Well I suppose so. Typical ATF as I understand it does not have much antiwear ingredients, but should since there are gears in an automatic transmission. That's why I really like REdline ATF as it has gobs of transmission friendly antiwear ingredients.
As for the MMO, I bet you also could run Rislone in an automatic, but I don't recommend it.
MMO website states that you can run MMO on a trans!
Well I suppose so. Typical ATF as I understand it does not have much antiwear ingredients, but should since there are gears in an automatic transmission. That's why I really like REdline ATF as it has gobs of transmission friendly antiwear ingredients.
As for the MMO, I bet you also could run Rislone in an automatic, but I don't recommend it.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
+1. Yeah they normally don't lockup until a certain temp is reached and shifts can be delayed in really cold temps. I hate how it holds on to the lower speeds makes the engine have to rev higher to maintain the same mph lol.
OF course a few hundred RPM higher isn't as stressful on cold engine parts as lugging at low RPM. Pistons are looser when cold than bearings, and lugging slams pistons against the cylinder wall harder..
+1. Yeah they normally don't lockup until a certain temp is reached and shifts can be delayed in really cold temps. I hate how it holds on to the lower speeds makes the engine have to rev higher to maintain the same mph lol.
OF course a few hundred RPM higher isn't as stressful on cold engine parts as lugging at low RPM. Pistons are looser when cold than bearings, and lugging slams pistons against the cylinder wall harder..
Many Honda ATs actually shift gears, not like every one else's AT that has the gears engaged and used bands /clutches.
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
+1. Yeah they normally don't lockup until a certain temp is reached and shifts can be delayed in really cold temps. I hate how it holds on to the lower speeds makes the engine have to rev higher to maintain the same mph lol.
OF course a few hundred RPM higher isn't as stressful on cold engine parts as lugging at low RPM. Pistons are looser when cold than bearings, and lugging slams pistons against the cylinder wall harder..
Yeah but even if it shifted closer to the same RPM as when hot it wouldn't lug the engine.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
+1. Yeah they normally don't lockup until a certain temp is reached and shifts can be delayed in really cold temps. I hate how it holds on to the lower speeds makes the engine have to rev higher to maintain the same mph lol.
OF course a few hundred RPM higher isn't as stressful on cold engine parts as lugging at low RPM. Pistons are looser when cold than bearings, and lugging slams pistons against the cylinder wall harder..
Yeah but even if it shifted closer to the same RPM as when hot it wouldn't lug the engine.
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