Auto RX

The whole Auto RX thing seemed gimicky even back then although many bought into it.

It may have worked for some but I stayed away.
 
Funny...I was just thinking about AutoRx yesterday. And this thread pops up today.

I suspect most of us who used it didn't really have a problem in need of fixing...we just like the idea of doing nice things for our machines.

Dosing an older engine with esters might help clean things up, but no idea if there was any measurable benefit, in my use case.

Maybe in a sludge-mobile?
 
I used it in my '93 Corolla that was burning more and more. Got to be about 1qt/1k. I followed the instructions and at the end was down to less than 1/2 qt. This was on a well cared for vehicle (but mostly dino). It was getting 3k changes almost it whole life, some a lot less when I working at Jiffy Lube.

So I'm one of the ones it worked as it said. I actually started reading here at BITOG because of the oil burning. That car had 220k on it and would get almost 40mpg on calm highway cruise. It had the 1.8L motor and 5 speed manual tranny in it. It got totaled in February '07.
 
It was over 20 years ago but I had a family member's 3.3 Dodge Caravan using a quart about every thousand mi. It happened despite a recent mobil 1 change by me, the new oil filter gasket was dripping. It was taken to the dealer, since it was assumed it could be an oil pan gasket etc. and still under warranty.

I'm not the one who took it in, so bye-bye mobil 1 and filled with garbage dealer bulk oil circa 1999. I changed it 6,000 miles later to my horror on how black, thick and goopy the bulk garbage oil looked... and the massive consumption as a bonus. In went auto-rx but also mobil 1 0w-40 since it was known for very good deposit control, cleaning and very long OCIs.

About 4,000 miles later it was down to a 1/4 quart every thousand and stayed that way for an additional 100,000mi. The Caravan was traded in at 170,000+ and running the same. I don't know if it was the auto-rx or M1 0w-40 or both, but it/they saved $$ and oil going through the catalytic conv. etc.

Now I'd just keep using M1 and if something unforeseen came up, I'd look to HPL
 
I have used ARX in the past and actually had a very good experience. (stuck rings were liberated by ARX; documented here on the site more than a decade ago). I have a bottle left which I am going to use in my recently-acquired 2013 ES350 (replacement car for my wife). After that I will likely move to using HPL EC30 where needed.
 
IIRC you were supposed to do the Auto-RX rinse phase using dino oil but you could use synthetic with the Auto-RX during the clean phase....correct?
I used the product as recommended and thought it worked.
 
It looks as if Auto-Rx still has a website.

For engines and power steering it will clean and condition seals but I would not use it in any step-shift (auto) transmissions.

Apparently they have reformulated slightly to have better cold weather performance.

At the time I analyzed it, it was mainly composed of two different esters.
 
It looks as if Auto-Rx still has a website.

For engines and power steering it will clean and condition seals but I would not use it in any step-shift (auto) transmissions.

Apparently they have reformulated slightly to have better cold weather performance.

At the time I analyzed it, it was mainly composed of two different esters.
Now that you refreshed my memory...I added it to the whiny/groaning PS system of my 2002 Buick Century and it quieted it down considerably.
 
IIRC you were supposed to do the Auto-RX rinse phase using dino oil but you could use synthetic with the Auto-RX during the clean phase....correct?
I used the product as recommended and thought it worked.
If this is in reference to my oil choice with Auto-RX mixed with M1 0w-40, it was made clear on the many posts and from the product directions to use mineral oil. I recall the issue was group IV and V oils possess competing chemistries, interfering with the Auto-RX. And would take longer to be effective. Or maybe not work as well.

I took the synthetic route. I didn't want to put anymore group II oils in there even if something like Havoline would be much better than the dealer bulk. E-mailing back and forth with Frank, he was impressed with the M1 0w-40 choice and he basically said prepare to wait. After thousands of miles I figured I was stuck with an oil burner. Then out of no where it mostly stopped. Just like I was informed,
 
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