auto-rx

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Car Junkie, It sounds like you must have a tremendous amount of sludge in your oil pan if you are reading full after putting in 3 quarts in a 4 quart system. I would recommend you dump the oil that's in there, pull your oil pan, clean it, put in fresh oil (regular dino oil), add the auto-rx and follow the directions on the site from there. I would be very concerned if I was only able to put 3 quarts of oil into my engine on an oil change and it read full. This sounds like a major catastrophe waiting to happen.
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Tom R.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TomR:
Car Junkie, It sounds like you must have a tremendous amount of sludge in your oil pan if you are reading full after putting in 3 quarts in a 4 quart system. I would recommend you dump the oil that's in there, pull your oil pan, clean it, put in fresh oil (regular dino oil), add the auto-rx and follow the directions on the site from there. I would be very concerned if I was only able to put 3 quarts of oil into my engine on an oil change and it read full. This sounds like a major catastrophe waiting to happen.
crushedcar.gif


Tom R.


Either that or plan on buying some more bottles of Auto-RX, a mess of oil, a mess of filters, and block out the next 4 or 5 weekends on your calendar.

If it was me, I'd buy about 4 bottles of Neutra 131 (cheap); dump a bottle into your crankcase right now, change oil and filter in 500 miles; repeat with the remaining 3 bottles of Neutra. Then, I'd start in with the Auto-RX. Then, I'd strongly consider driving with a good quality dino oil for 3000 miles, and repeat another entire Auto-RX course.

Has this car seen regular oil changes? Was it routinely run low on oil? I'm wondering what the heck happened for this much junk to build up.
 
Your questions are good. Auto-Rx revised application instructions take into consideration
use of oil additives,oil thickners. Application
ratios for Auto-Rx are going to have to be repeated as your car is defintely two bottle application. I would change oil to least expensive "Dino" I could find, before adding Auto-Rx be good to get rid of as much petroleum based additive chemistry as possible.
 
quote:

Originally posted by TomR:
This sounds like a major catastrophe waiting to happen.
crushedcar.gif


Tom R.


already there.....
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i still didn't got my answer about amount to be used... anyone?

quote:

Originally posted by kev99sl:
Either that or plan on buying some more bottles of Auto-RX, a mess of oil, a mess of filters, and block out the next 4 or 5 weekends on your calendar.

If it was me, I'd buy about 4 bottles of Neutra 131 (cheap); dump a bottle into your crankcase right now, change oil and filter in 500 miles; repeat with the remaining 3 bottles of Neutra. Then, I'd start in with the Auto-RX. Then, I'd strongly consider driving with a good quality dino oil for 3000 miles, and repeat another entire Auto-RX course.

Has this car seen regular oil changes? Was it routinely run low on oil? I'm wondering what the heck happened for this much junk to build up.


This is my brother's car, has been using pennzoil 10W30, irregular oil changes is part of it. I am sure never been on low oil though.
 
I would add about 8-10 ounces of AutoRX after putting abut 2 3/4 quarts of any cheap API SL "dino" oil and a new oil filter. Then drive about 500 miles and remove the oil filter and put a new oil filter on and then add the remaining 2-4 ounces of AutoRX and also add a little fresh oil to bring the oil level up to the full mark on the dipstick. From this point just follow the directions on the AutoRX web site.

I have a 2001 Mazda 626 with the 2.0L motor and the owners manual says it should take 3.7 quarts to fill the motor with fresh oil after an oil change but I have found that it will only take about 3.3 quarts to fill it up to the full line on the dipstick. I only check theck oil level after having done an oil change and then starting the car and letting it run for about 30-45 seconds and then letting it sit for about five to ten minutes. My motor has no sludge or varnish and only has about 22,500 miles.

[ September 23, 2003, 07:10 PM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
 
car junkie


If I had a car I liked and 25% of my sump capacity was sludge. I'd drop the pan and use a spoon to clean out the sludge or what ever is in there. Then pull the valve covers for the same treatment.

Think about it. 25% of your total sump capacity is something other than oil. AutoRx is good but.

Then use the Auto Rx to reach the places the spoon won't.
 
Just got my first auto-rx set of three bottle for my mazda 626 with 150,000 miles. Since lots of people on this board have used it, I would like to know the best recipe to cook it in my engine. Here is the situation,
(1) I have used lucas oil stabilizer a while back.
(2) Recently I have flushed my engine twice with gunk 5 minute flush (didn't seems to work on heavily sludged up engine) and replace oil with synthetic bland.(been only 100 miles) this oil is still in engine.

can any one tell me how to use auto-rx with this? Like should i replace oil with regular motor oil before pouring in this expensive treatment?

should i take any precautions to avoide any damage to my engine? and things like that
 
thanks vetteman, but i was reading somewhere that if i have used other products like oil stabilizers than i have to wait for little longer then 1500 miles, before i get to rinsing cycle, is that true? My original engine capacity was 4 quarts but now with this heavy sludge, engine takes only three quarts and shows engine's full capacity, should i still use 10 or 12 oz of auto-rx? if i would put in 12 oz even though i suppose to put in only 8 oz or 10 oz would it hurt my engine?
 
If your car really is 1 quart short I would seriously do as others have said and pull the oil pan etc. Auto-Rx may be good but it can't fit 1 qrt of sludge in a 1/4-1/2 qt filter. You may also have large pieces of gunk that will block your oil pump filter, then bye, bye engine. Since you have used a cleaner these pieces are probably embeded in the sludge just waiting to be released.
 
If you have to use a solvent in the future, go with the Amsoil Engine Cleaner. Gunk is bad about making leaks worse when gaskets and seals are old and brittle.
 
quote:

Originally posted by car_junkie_moron:
My original engine capacity was 4 quarts but now with this heavy sludge, engine takes only three quarts and shows engine's full

Something weird just happened to me in this regard. I went back to changing my own oil last year. The "approximate capacity" stated in the owner's manual (Lumina 3.1) is 4.5 quarts. I use the oversize PF52 filter (or equal) instead of the standard PF47 filter and even so, was above the full mark by about 1/4 to 1/3 quart when filled with 4.5 quarts. This happened for 2 oil changes in a row. Before I started doing my own oil changes, the last one was at wal*mart and they gave me almost a quart of oil in a bottle because the level was at the full mark and any more would overfill it.

I just figured the dipstick was off. Then, I did an Auto RX treatment. After the "rinse" cycle, I let the oil drain for a lot longer than usual (about an hour) to drain as much oil & residual Rx as possible. I bought a gallon of Shell Rotella T 5W40 and used the standard PF47 filter instead of the oversized one. I figured a gallon would bring it up to the FULL hole or very close. The gallon did not bring the level to FULL, so I bought another gallon and added oil a few ounces at a time, letting it settle a long time between additions. It took 1/2 quart to cover the hole at the FULL mark.

So, using the OEM oil filter, the stated capacity of 4.5 quarts brought the stick level to FULL and not above. I drove the car a few hundred miles since then, checking the stick after each trip...and it is right at the FULL mark...not above.

I am wondering what happend. Was I maybe not letting the oil drain long enough? I doubt it since the other cars I change the oil in all work out just fine. The other possibility is AutoRx cleaned out 1/4 to 1/2 quart of something in the oil pan. Seems hard to believe. UOA on last oil change at 7,200 miles showed very good wear numbers, but insolubles were at 0.6%...so maybe there was some sludge in the oil pan. I think I will cut open the filter and see if there is anything unusual.

Any opinions or comments?

[ September 24, 2003, 04:13 PM: Message edited by: CJH ]
 
There is a good chance that ARX dissolved the binding system of sludge accumulation in your motor. The result is that part odf the sludge is now in liquid form and is circulating with your oil. The solid materials are in the filter.

The other side of the coin is that at quick change stations, they typically allow only a short drain time. They seem to be in a rush to get you back on the road, rather than performing a thorough drain.

If you want the job done right, then do it yourself. Or ask the tech. at the quick change place to allow for a longer drain.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Rick20:
One other thought. Could you have dented in the oil pan? Thats the easiest way to shorten up the capacity.

Not sure who you directed this at. In my case, I was able to fit the specified amount in after the AutoRx rinse and extended draining time. So it is not a dented pan.

In car junky's case though, could have a dented oil pan.
 
Have you decided what course of action to take? I would like to see how AutoRX does. I think the 2 bottle method will definitely fix it up. I've had 1 excellent use of the product and 1 so-so, but I don't think it is the fault of AutoRX (my rear main still leaks, but it is a "rope" type, so I don't think there's anything possible to save it)

I would probably change out the oil filter every 500 miles the first run through...geez maybe even after the first 250!
 
all right guys, first bottle of Auto-RX is cooking in my engine. I have poured it in on friday evening, but due to baby sitting my son on wholeday saturday I was able to drive around this car for about 200 miles on sunday, Haven't noticed anything new yet. Oh!!! one more thing, I decided to flush tranny on this car also that has never been done every since my bro. got this car. lets say about 100,000 miles
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anyways, i just opened the drain plug and let it drain out.
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throwed up twice because of that disgusting smell.

[ September 29, 2003, 09:35 AM: Message edited by: car_junkie_moron ]
 
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