Auto-RX Results - Part Three - AFTER PICS

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: RetiredGuy1
It seems I stirred up a hornets nest here. I was not promoting auto RX, I was only pointing out some inequities in this thread. My name is not Frank; don't know who Frank is; but, it is clear that there is something fishy between some of you posters and auto RX. Some of you have a personal problem with the personality of this Frank guy, which is clear. I know that readers will take this into consideration when reading this thread.

It's funny how the truth comes out eventually. I don't care one way or another about any oil additive right now as I am only researching. Gee, I might buy a case of auto RX, and give out bottles for Christmas to my children! Yeah, that's what I
plan to do. Then I'll get their opinions which I know would be unbiased.

This Frank guy must be a terror. Ha ha. Carry on.



What's the panic about there retired guy? Something fish? How about a few hundred down the toilet. Nothing fishy about that.

So lets see now. You are not Frank from ARX but yet you come on here and your first post is ripping someone's long term ARX experience to shreds and now you claim you haven't even tried it?
Now that's fishy!

You want to give a case out for Christmas?
Good luck to you and the Red Sox.

I will ask my friend who bought 500 bottles of this stuff to become a distributor to chime in and lets see how he feels after not getting any results after 30K.

Originally Posted By: Frank Miller oops sorry retired guy
This Frank guy must be a terror

He thinks he is but is just a nasty old geezer that doesn't have a clue.



I just choked on my coffee.
Trav,I always look forward to your posts. But this one is the best ever.
Thank you
Merry Christmas

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
The minority disappointment in Auto-Rx always amazes me on BITOG. I've been using it for several years on various engines, transmissions, t-cases, differentials, steering racks and couldn't be happier with its performance and the money in repair costs it has saved me. I suspect that there are many more like me, than there are dissenters. But the dissenters certainly are loud and obnoxious, aren't they? That's why I usually stay away from these threads.

But I couldn't help looking at the OP's pictures of his previously sludged up Toyota V-6. Heck, I'd be ecstatic if that's all that was left on my engine and the engine wasn't harmed in any way.

The only sludged engine that I've cleaned with ARX is my 2000 Tundra V-8 2UZ-FE when it had around 140K miles on it. PCV valve neglect must have allowed a thick reddish brown deposit to build up all over the valve train on both banks. I suspect that is how the OP's engine got sludged too. I gave it two ARX treatments (2500/3000) back then and remember the first clean phase produced a noticeable reddish brown colored oil (I was happy to see this). I tested the final rinse phase oil and my Pb PPM dropped from 12 to 3, the universal average. Anyways, here are some pictures I took with the bank 2 cover off at 195K miles last year. You can see some small remnants of what I was dealing with. But bare metal is actually visible now instead of thick lacquer paint. Like I said, I'm ecstatic and the truck runs greta at 205K miles.

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/image/820542-dscf0002/
http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/gallery/image/820541-dscf0001/


Where did you get the idea that the engine was EVER sludged?

Besides the slight build up in the left corner, the rest is the result of supposedly very hot running heads in the 1MZ-FE engine.

I'm trying to find an additive that will clean up the minor build up in the left corner of the head. If the product will also scrub the rest of the block clean (or cleaner) that would be great as well (even though we all agree that the yellow varnish doesn't hurt a thing). This is exactly the type of cleaner that I want to find.

In my opinion, if an engine cleaner is labeled as a "CLEANER", shouldn't it CLEAN and show noticeable improvement regardless wether it's sludge or varnish that its splashing around on?

 

[dkryan]

With all due respect, you still haven't answered my questions.

What full synthetic oil did you use for your 3k-5k mile OCIs?

And did you use the Auto-Rx for the purpose of removing the varnish?

I know most of us on this board are males, but perhaps reading the product instructions first might result in substantially less disappoinment with the product and thus the elimination of this thread to begin with.

 

[Artem]

I don't get it... Why do you assume that i can't read the instructions and thus have used the product wrong. I don't understand. You don't have to have a degree in order to pour a bottle of liquid into the oil filler hole.

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: dkryan

And did you use the Auto-Rx for the purpose of removing the varnish?



I bought A-RX in order to have it clean the engine internals. Since i don't use engine cleaners, i had no idea as to what it will or will not clean. I assumed that it will CLEAN the entire block, varnish and all. I didn't expect it to leave me with a Brand New, factory clean looking engine, but i still expected "SOME" cleaning of the varnish (at least lessen the yellowing, etc) as well as the build up in the left corner of the head.

Two doses later, i barely see any improvement.

Quote:

Instructions for Using Auto-Rx®

CLEANS WHILE YOU DRIVE:
This product is really simple to use. Sure is Although the instructions appear to be lengthy, all the applications are really as simple as add and drive. All cleaning activity occurs while you drive,Yep, added A-RX and drove whether you are cleaning a transmission, motor, differential, or power steering unit. The applications just let you know how much to use and how long to run it.

Anyone can do it.Don't need to be a NASA engineer A car or light truck motor application is easy. For general cleaning, just add a bottle to a fresh oil change and drive.looking to do GENERAL CLEANING - CHECK! Added a bottle to fresh PYB - CHECK! Drive - CHECK! For heavily sludged motors, you get faster results in a shorter timeframe with the Fast Track application. Fast Track means running a two-bottle concentration. The cleaning time is 3000 miles for either and the product works best with simple conventional oil. Drove 3,000 miles - CHECK! used simple conventional oil - CHECK!


Now tell me, do the BEFORE pictures of my engine show a heavily sludged engine which needed TWO bottle concentration to achieve results? I don't think so.

Looking at the BEFORE pictures, would you agree that the engine is not as clean as it could be (lets just look at the minor build up in the left corner for this example) ??? Would you agree that it could benefit from a "GENERAL CLEANING"???

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: dkryan
With all due respect, you still haven't answered my questions.

What full synthetic oil did you use for your 3k-5k mile OCIs?


I've been using Mobil 1 (both regular and EP) since the first oil change in this car. Used Amsoil for a few OCIs before i started the cleaning process.

Happy now?

 

[SteveSRT8]

Anxiously awaiting further info!

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: dkryan
With all due respect, you still haven't answered my questions.

What full synthetic oil did you use for your 3k-5k mile OCIs?


I've been using Mobil 1 (both regular and EP) since the first oil change in this car. Used Amsoil for a few OCIs before i started the cleaning process.

Happy now?


So using Mobil 1 and amsoil in this engine still left you with deposits? Now that is interesting.

 

[Trav]

I don't remember what make and model the OP's car was but yes i have seen a few engines get bad deposits regardless if the oil was a synthetic or not.
Some of these Honda 3.5 iVTEC will get to the point they wont run on 6 cyl any more just 3 even when the OLM is followed and synthetic oil is in the sump. Some Toyota and VW, etc have major problems also.

In almost every case it is a PCV related issue. Not lack of maintenance but poor PCV system engineering.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: dkryan
With all due respect, you still haven't answered my questions.

What full synthetic oil did you use for your 3k-5k mile OCIs?


I've been using Mobil 1 (both regular and EP) since the first oil change in this car. Used Amsoil for a few OCIs before i started the cleaning process.

Happy now?


So using Mobil 1 and amsoil in this engine still left you with deposits? Now that is interesting.


It is interesting but, some engines by design, and some driving conditions can accumulate varnish and sludge, even with intervals some of us would consider short. I've seen it over the years. There are a lot of factors that can contribute to it, which is why I take blanket statements like synthetic oil can easily go 10,000 miles, or dino oil for 5,000 miles is nothing. I take those statements with a grain of salt, since I've seen just the opposite more than once over the years. Are those statements true? Yes many times they are, and in some instances they aren't. YMMV

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: dkryan
With all due respect, you still haven't answered my questions.

What full synthetic oil did you use for your 3k-5k mile OCIs?


I've been using Mobil 1 (both regular and EP) since the first oil change in this car. Used Amsoil for a few OCIs before i started the cleaning process.

Happy now?


So using Mobil 1 and amsoil in this engine still left you with deposits? Now that is interesting.


That is correct. The car was used for regular daily driving around town coupled with 800 miles each and every week for the first two years of it's life as it was used to go from Jacksonville, FL to Charlotte, NC for work purposes. Another vehicle would be used every now and then (at the time it was a modified 1997 Nissan Maxima) but for the most part, the Camry would be used with oil changes literally every month as my father was very anal in keeping the car in pristine condition.

After that it became a daily driver with TONS of short trips on a daily bases (less then 3-4 miles) 2 times a day at a minimum to go to work and back.

Then i started using it for business trips but it still sees less then 3 mile short trips on a daily basis.

Every time I'd pull the dipstick or open the oil cap, there would be A LOT of moisture that i would wipe off. Perhaps these driving conditions, with an engine that's known for sludge, is a perfect environment for heavy varnish to form.

but yes, synthetic oil changed at no later then 3-5k could not keep this block looking new. I was as shocked as you are when i first pulled the valve cover (build up was starting to show at 100k when the valve covers were first removed)

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't remember what make and model the OP's car was but yes i have seen a few engines get bad deposits regardless if the oil was a synthetic or not.
Some of these Honda 3.5 iVTEC will get to the point they wont run on 6 cyl any more just 3 even when the OLM is followed and synthetic oil is in the sump. Some Toyota and VW, etc have major problems also.

In almost every case it is a PCV related issue. Not lack of maintenance but poor PCV system engineering.


That is true. I service a 2006 Honda Odyssey with the 3.5L and heavy varnish can be seen down the oil filler hole when i first started servicing it @ 60k.

With the use of Amsoil OE, changed at 15% on the OLM (6k-ish), the varnish is still there and could even be getting worse.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Artem

but yes, synthetic oil changed at no later then 3-5k could not keep this block looking new. I was as shocked as you are when i first pulled the valve cover (build up was starting to show at 100k when the valve covers were first removed)


I was also a bit shocked when I looked down the fill hole of my 00 Century with about 85K miles on it, which was very well maintained with 3K dino OCI's by my father since new. Bottom line is this, it happens. That is why there are needs for products to clean up messes that people have from neglect, or in other cases from proper maintenance with less than perfect driving conditions, or lousy engine design resulting in sludge and varnish. To say a good quality oil changed at reasonable intervals will keep an engine clean in all cases like many here believe is wrong. JMO

 

[Artem]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Artem

but yes, synthetic oil changed at no later then 3-5k could not keep this block looking new. I was as shocked as you are when i first pulled the valve cover (build up was starting to show at 100k when the valve covers were first removed)


I was also a bit shocked when I looked down the fill hole of my 00 Century with about 85K miles on it, which was very well maintained with 3K dino OCI's by my father since new. Bottom line is this, it happens. That is why there are needs for products to clean up messes that people have from neglect, or in other cases from proper maintenance with less than perfect driving conditions, or lousy engine design resulting in sludge and varnish. To say a good quality oil changed at reasonable intervals will keep an engine clean in all cases like many here believe is wrong. JMO


Agreed. I also don't buy the whole "PYB, or PU will clean engines" either. I've been using PYB along with the help of Auto-RX for 13,000 miles now and it's barely doing anything regarding cleanliness. So what actually did a tiny amount of cleaning in the left corner of the head, A-RX or PYB?

It's all marketing nonsense that i take extra salty and with the salt shaker near by...

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: Artem

Agreed. I also don't buy the whole "PYB, or PU will clean engines" either. I've been using PYB along with the help of Auto-RX for 13,000 miles now and it's barely doing anything regarding cleanliness. So what actually did a tiny amount of cleaning in the left corner of the head, A-RX or PYB?

It's all marketing nonsense that i take extra salty and with the salt shaker near by...


+1 Merry Christmas!!!!

 

[skyship]

UMM, I still have not seen a picture of an engine that needed cleaning, they do have some good clips on You tube of real varnish and sludge cases.
To use the old saying, "If it ain't forked, don't fix it". 90% of the users of snake oil additives don't have a problem in the first place and 9% of the rest just need to use a different oil. The 1% of additive users that did need an additive were mostly classic car owners who could not find a classic car oil in their area, or folks with serious terminal engine problems beyond economic repair, although I consider the use of "At idle only" flush additives that are used just before an oil change as a maintenance procedure.

 

[dkryan]

Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: dkryan
With all due respect, you still haven't answered my questions.

What full synthetic oil did you use for your 3k-5k mile OCIs?


I've been using Mobil 1 (both regular and EP) since the first oil change in this car. Used Amsoil for a few OCIs before i started the cleaning process.

Happy now?


Yep, I sure am, and I was long before this thread.

You, unfortunately, are an obviously unhappy person. It was just a very simple question. But obviously, so complex it sent you "over the top." Again.

Good luck with your anger issues.

And have a Merry Christmas and a prosperous (and varnish free) New Year.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: skyship
UMM, I still have not seen a picture of an engine that needed cleaning, they do have some good clips on You tube of real varnish and sludge cases.
To use the old saying, "If it ain't forked, don't fix it". 90% of the users of snake oil additives don't have a problem in the first place and 9% of the rest just need to use a different oil. The 1% of additive users that did need an additive were mostly classic car owners who could not find a classic car oil in their area, or folks with serious terminal engine problems beyond economic repair, although I consider the use of "At idle only" flush additives that are used just before an oil change as a maintenance procedure.



Your numbers are off. There are pictures on this site, a few with some well maintained engines too.

 

[Trav]

This is a Honda 3.5 iVTEC running synthetic oil at OLM intervals.
This one was too late for Kreen to do any good. It started running on only 3 cyl.

It did however have 2 ARX treatments with VWB prior to breaking down which did nothing.
By the time we realized ARX was a total failure and worthless it was too late for this candidate.
I did another few of these almost as bad and saved them being torn apart with Kreen.

Notice how the front bank is so much worse than the rear. Its from running on 3 cyl in eco mode and getting real hot during normal operation.

 

[demarpaint]

Hey Paul, you'd think the "engineers" that designed it would have allowed the engine to alternate banks, to better distribute wear and tear, or at least program the OLM for shorter OCI's. It makes me wonder, how much testing really went into it? Better fuel economy at what cost? Do you think this engine saved enough gas to pay for the needed repairs? JMO

Merry Christmas!