Auto-Rx - oil still clean after 500 miles ???

[keith]

I have been running a first Auto-Rx treatment in my Cadillac Seville, 1999, 55K miles and uses about 1 qt. / 1000 miles

The Auto-Rx has been in for about 3 weeks and 500 miles, mostly highway miles at 65 mph and the occasional full throttle blast

When I checked the oil today on the dipstick, it looked almost as clean as new oil. I was expecting it to look really dirty. Now what? Leave the oil in for another 500 miles? Is it possible the filter is trapping a lot of junk, yet the oil looks clean? By the way, the oil is Mobil Delvac 1300S and the oil filter is a K&N.

For comparison, I changed the oil in my wifes Dodge Caravan, 1999, 60K miles, at the same time as I did the Cadillac change. Just oil in the van, no Auto-Rx. The van has probably done about 500 miles also, on Mobil 1 oil and K&N oil filter. The oil in the van looks quite black already, much darker than the Cadillac oil.

This is about opposite of what I expected. Any advice? Too soon to really say if the Cadillac oil consumption has changed, but it is running very smooth.

Keith.

 

[Bio-T]

Kieth,

The same situation happens when you do a new vehicle. The oil does not turn real black. When I did my wife's Mazda with 7500 miles on the engine, the same thing, the oil was nice, but when I cut open the filter I had alot of metal. Much more than normal.
I would leave the Auto-Rx in until 1K miles and then change oil and filter.

 

[novadude]

quote:

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When I did my wife's Mazda with 7500 miles on the engine, the same thing, the oil was nice, but when I cut open the filter I had alot of metal. Much more than normal.

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And this is a good thing?

Clean oil + more metal sounds like increased wear. I thought Rx was supposed to clean sludge. Where'd the metal come from?

Please enlighten me!

 

[Ken2]

Picked up manufacturing residue in this new engine that otherwise would have remained in place and been washed out by the oil very slowly.


Ken

 

[Bio-T]

No increased wear on the Mazda. Just manufacturing left overs as I only change this oil once a year, I don't care how many miles. Usually very low as my wife takes the new truck and leaves the car in the garage. I did my 01 PSD truck with 1500 miles on it and the next oil analysis the wear metal was so low, almost unbelieveable. I am glad that Terry got the results before I did or it would seem like I fudged on the results. This was with Schaeffer's 15W40. It is in the diesel forum under my 01 PSD.
I don't get the Mazda analyized, just change oil and filter every 1 Sept. and go another year.

 

[novadude]

Oh.... I did not realize we were talking about a low mile MAzda.

 

[Norm Olt]

Keith: Really OK to leave the Auto-Rx in for as long as you like. If you wish you could always change out the filter, cut the old one open and look in there (kinda' spendy with the K&N). I guess it really depends upon whether you started the treatment with a new filter & new oil or whether you were close to the end of the change interval. Based upon your comment about the oil looking so clean @ 500 miles, I would believe the former and suggest you leave it in for at least another 500 miles. A K&N should handle whatever the treatment produces.

The oil in my SVX (with 100K+) was considerably darker (3, maybe 4X) at a total of 1,500 miles on the oil after a 750 mile Auto-Rx treatment, but the filter was in no way starting to clog, nor was it "full". The refill with Chevron Supreme looks so clean and clear on the dipstick after 600 miles I'm confident I'm looking at a really clean engine, and I didn't think mine was very dirty to begin with... This is a very light-colored oil to begin with, almost hard to read on the 'stic.

The "running very smooth" comment is certainly quite positive: in another 500 miles you should have a preliminary answer on the 1 qt./1000 mile consumption question.

 

[Frank]

Nova Dude read last half of this post, and you will understand how much better your engine is new or like new than it was before Auto-Rx. Auto-Rx can be stored indefintely, if in cold temperatures, run it under hot water for 10 minutes before using. Keep bottle cap on tight, (shake it up if it's been stored for a time) after using hotwater above if in frigid climates. Your good to go. Have noticed several posts where Auto-Rx customers running third application which is fine (after second application when you still see "crud' wipe it with a rag and believe you will see it come right off of metal) you can just fill with oil and run a couple hundred miles and oil will do same as rag outlined above. Just a tip. New Subject -New Engines & Auto-Rx, we just did third application to a Ford Product with less than 1000 miles. Ran Auto-rx this time 750 miles, filter very dirty (not sludge or oil just dirt) and enough metal particulates to fill half of a filter. Same results as other two Ford Products except 750 miles instead of 500 miles, 750 miles
very noticable results, fast.
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Posts: 162 | From: Ormond Beach Fl | Registered: May 2002 | IP: Logged |

 

[Patman]

Instead of running it under hot water, one could simply leave the bottle in their car on a semi hot day, and then it would pour pretty easily too.

 

[Frank]

Terry says it quite clearly.

Guys and Gals the oxidation DIFFERENCE you see between oil and oil with Auto-RX added is the cleaning process not the oil oxidizing. Oil does oxidize but will at a lot slower rate if there isn't any dirt or carbon to start the process.

On the edmunds board 2 smart alecs have derided my testing based on their ignorance of this attribute ( and oil analysis in general judging from their statements)in internal combustion engines and Auto-RX usage.

Inert Auto-RX will NOT! NOT! degrade the host oil in any way. Its cleaning dirt and carbon not the oil. That does help the oil do its job, lubricate !

Inhibited Solvent based adds like LC will neutralize oxidation but if used at too high a treat rate can degrade the oil.

Auto-RX won't at all, at any treat we have seen.

B12 is rough stuff with almost 0 lubricity and I won't use it in a crankcase of an engine I like.

Its pretty tough in the gasoline, I prefer the FP for that as it is oily.

Hope that sheds some light as I'm traveling alot and not able to get to a internet connection at all times.

Terry
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Posts: 812 | From: Greenville , Texas | Registered: May 2002 | IP: Logged | ry says it quite clear.

 

[Frank]

Frank

Member
Member # 34

posted April 29, 2003 12:49 PM
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750 miles is correct, you won't hurt anything if you go over say to 1000 miles as long as your filter is not full prior. Filter integrity is the key, with every application. Don't let it get full and keep driving over say a max of 1000 miles.No matter if its sludge ,dirt ,third party abrasives metal particulates it all ends up in the filter and thats where you want it to stay.
And change oil and filter at that point.

My reason for posting this is the filter is not always black or the oil if your not removing sludge other contaminants will be found in filter.
No doubt about it.

 

[Norm Olt]

"On the Northstar the oil filter is at the bottom of the engine, so I suspect I'll get a gush of oil if I pop the filter off without first draining the oil."

"I doan' know nuttin' 'bout changing no Northstars, Miss Scarlett!"

Seriously, you well may, but on almost every engine I'm familiar with the filter is above the oil level in the pan. The SVX and the 460 were, anyway. I can't wait to see what comes out of the Ford V8.

Actually, the canister type "up top" on the Mercedes makes it very easy to remove and inspect the filter without getting a lot of oil everywhere!

Keith: I'll be looking for your consumption data and, eventually, what comes out of the filter, too. You are planning on cutting it open, are you not?

Even with a low mile, very clean engine, I predict you will be impressed.

 

[keith]

This weekend I will buy whatever decent filter I can get locally (probably end up with AC Delco) and switch out the K&N. It will be interesting to see what is inside the K&N. Maybe I will take some pictures for you all.

Keith.

 

[keith]

Update:

Almost 1000 miles now, and the oil is still really clean. If I wipe the dipstick on a white cloth, the oil looks close to the color of virgin oil. I guess the engine was clean at the start of the treatment. It has only seen Amsoil or Mobil 1 until I used Delvac 1300S for the cleaning.

On the Northstar, the oil filter is at the bottom of the engine so I suspect that I will get a gush of oil if I pop the filter off without first draining the oil.

Plan: leave the oil and filter in there for now, recheck at 1500 miles. The engine is running smooth so no need to change anything.

I will check the oil level this weekend. If I recall, the engine should be off for 20 minutes to give time for the oil to drain into the pan.

Keith.

 

[keith]

Recap: 1999 Cadillac Seville STS, 55K on engine, 1000 miles on Delvac 1300S + Auto-Rx, K&N oil and air filter. Approx. 1 Qt. / 1000 mile oil consumption - stuck rings?

Here are the pics:

pic #1

pic #2

pic #3

Sorry about pic #3, the camera won't focus any closer.

I don't see anything other than oil soaked paper in the K&N. Nothing but a perfectly even light brown color on the filter element. Like I said before, even the oil is super clean at 1,000 miles. Didn't pay any attention to the oil consumption yet. Going to fit a new PCV and check the oil consumption after that.

What do you guys think? Obviously there is no harm in cleaning an already clean engine, and I deliberately chose to ignore oil consumption until after the 1000 mile Auto-Rx treatment is complete.

Keith.

 

[Ken2]

Keith,

#2 & #3 are showing us the clean (outlet) side of the filter media. The oil flow into the filter is from outside to inside.


Ken

 

[keith]

Thanks, Ken2, I certainly get different results on the flip side:

flip side

The oil flows opposite way to what I expected, LOL.

Now - how does that look for 1000 miles? I kept the Delvac/Auto-Rx cocktail in there with a new K&N oil filter. Should I run this out an extra 1000 miles to 2000 miles total?

Thanks,
Keith.

 

[Terry]

I would continue running the Auto-RX to 2000 miles as this engine has no sludge issues.

What this engine does have because of design is high temp coking at the very top of the piston and along ring belt. The increased interval using Rx will be helpful is correcting that deposit formation. These are deposits that filter examination will not reveal.

If I'm correct and those high temp deposits exist the extended RX treatment will be beneficial.

I suggest using a 3 oz load of RX in the brand of oil you'll use normally.Unless it is Redline. Even M1 is going to coke in this engine unless we doctor the M1.

I also suggest regular oil analysis so someone like myself can determine how the Nstar is working before problems present again.

Consider a Fuel treatment like Fuel Power that will help both upper cylinder deposits and possbily allow you to drop a grade or two in gasoline costs.

I currently run FP in a Toyota 3.0L that requires 91 octane for no timing retard. I run the cheapest gasoline (87octane )I can find and add FP at 1 oz to 5 gallons each fillup. The FP costs me about .16 cents and ounce and saves me a ton of $ on premium. All with no retard confirmed by scanner and MPG being excellent.

Nuetra will work as well in cleaning the fuel side but I'm not sure it has the Octane boost capability.

Another help once you confirm that the oil consumption was high temp coking is to run a PE based oil like Redline, I would use the 10w-30 in your case with a K&N filter for 10,000 miles between changes, confimed by analysis of course.

 

[keith]

Thanks for the reply, Terry. Seems like I should go into maintenance mode at 2K miles then. It only took a minute or so to open up the filter with a dremel, so will do that again. Then, M1-SS + Auto-Rx 3oz. + FP.

Keith.

 

[digitaldrifter91]

quote:

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What this engine does have because of design is high temp coking at the very top of the piston and along ring belt. The increased interval using Rx will be helpful is correcting that deposit formation. These are deposits that filter examination will not reveal.

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can i ask a question, that deposit stuff...is that the varnish brown stuff thats on top of my lifters and the valve cover? i have that alot.