Auto-Rx mixed with Redline

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I just placed an order for 2 bottles of Auto-Rx. I have a 210,000 mile 1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA that has only run Mobil 1 (0-70K miles) and Royal Purple (70K-210K).

I read that I am not supposed to use a synthetic oil during the “clean” phase with Auto-Rx. I presume however that this refers to PAOs correct?

I am wanting to run the bottles of Auto-Rx with Redline oil during my “clean” phase. Being that Redline oil is a Group V Optimized Polyol Ester I do not see any problems. I also believe it might actually enhance the effectiveness of the Auto-Rx due to Auto-Rxs unique cleaning esters.

Comments? Suggestions?
 
I'd use a cheap dino oil and save the Red Line for when you finish the treatment. This is what I've read time and time again. Save your money while you do the treatment. HTH
 
I don't care about money. I don't drive the car very often anymore and want as much cleaning as fast as possible. I was going to use Redline and change the filter twice, at 1K miles then again at 2K miles. No chance of clogging this way plus I'll be using Redline and another new filter when I drain at 3K miles.
 
In the "clean" phase you can use any oil you want. It's only during the "rinse" phase they recommend Group III.
 
Quote:

Auto-Rx® works best with conventional (non-synthetic) motor oil. If you feel you must use a synthetic motor oil, we recommend using a Group III oil to avoid competing chemistries.


From the ARX site. Not sure why not following instructions might yield better results, but this seems to be a recurring question. If you want a synthetic for the ARX application, run RTS
 
Originally Posted By: TurboJim
In the "clean" phase you can use any oil you want. It's only during the "rinse" phase they recommend Group III.


According to their web site it says "to avoid competing chemistries". That implies to me it's refering to when the Auto-Rx is added which is during the clean phase...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:

Auto-Rx® works best with conventional (non-synthetic) motor oil. If you feel you must use a synthetic motor oil, we recommend using a Group III oil to avoid competing chemistries.


From the ARX site. Not sure why not following instructions might yield better results, but this seems to be a recurring question. If you want a synthetic for the ARX application, run RTS


Except Redline Oil does not have any "competing chemistries" from what I can tell, hence why I posted here asking. From what I can tell it's the only possible exception to the rule because of it's chemistry if I'm right...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
Quote:

Auto-Rx® works best with conventional (non-synthetic) motor oil. If you feel you must use a synthetic motor oil, we recommend using a Group III oil to avoid competing chemistries.


From the ARX site. Not sure why not following instructions might yield better results, but this seems to be a recurring question. If you want a synthetic for the ARX application, run RTS


Except Redline Oil does not have any "competing chemistries" from what I can tell, hence why I posted here asking. From what I can tell it's the only possible exception to the rule because of it's chemistry if I'm right...


How can you tell when you have the formula of neither?
 
Quote:
How can you tell when you have the formula of neither?

EXACTLY!!!

If you're going to ASSume you're on your own. The instructions are there for a reason.... to be able to blame the company if you follow them to a T.
 
I would do as specified with the dino, and possibly turning the pontiac into a commuter for a month or two to rack up the prescribed miles. When finished you can pour back in the redline.
 
From what I've read on here, it's a matter of polar vs non polar. PAOs are non polar, Redline and grp I II and III are polar. One could make the argument that Redline could be better for both phases since it's very polar. It's also an ester albeit a different type of ester. I would think it's more similar to auto rx than a "dino" oil.

I've never seen an answer to this specific question, just the usual follow the instruction answers. I've ASSumed the instructions ASSume no-one is going to run an exotic oil like Redline so it's not addressed.
 
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
I don't care about money. I don't drive the car very often anymore and want as much cleaning as fast as possible. I was going to use Redline and change the filter twice, at 1K miles then again at 2K miles. No chance of clogging this way plus I'll be using Redline and another new filter when I drain at 3K miles.



It is not about money it is about following the instructions to get the best results. I haven't used the product but chatted via PM with many people who had, and I follow these threads closely. It seems that it works best with dino oil, I was making that suggestion. If you want to use RL oil go for it. If it works better then share it with the board. It is about getting the best bang for the buck and finding things that work! Good luck! Let us know it goes.
 
I saw a demonstration on some of these miracle cleaner lubricants. The ball wear test was awesome. Then the guy running the test cleaned off all the old oil, put some new oil on and put in a few drops of bleach, yes bleach.

low and behold it reduced wear just like the miracle addatives. Even better, the bleach cleans. Until it eats the metal itself.

It was some lubrication guru I found on You Tube. He was holding an automotive class. He said most of the addatives are just chloronated solvents.
 
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
I just placed an order for 2 bottles of Auto-Rx. I have a 210,000 mile 1992 Pontiac Trans Am GTA that has only run Mobil 1 (0-70K miles) and Royal Purple (70K-210K).

I read that I am not supposed to use a synthetic oil during the “clean” phase with Auto-Rx. I presume however that this refers to PAOs correct?

I am wanting to run the bottles of Auto-Rx with Redline oil during my “clean” phase. Being that Redline oil is a Group V Optimized Polyol Ester I do not see any problems. I also believe it might actually enhance the effectiveness of the Auto-Rx due to Auto-Rxs unique cleaning esters.

Comments? Suggestions?


Sounds like an expensive proposition that is not going to give the best results. I realize you said money doesn't matter. Even so money is not the issue here it is the end result from using the product. A-Rx will do better with a dino oil, follow the directions and the advise of people who have successfully used the product.
 
Originally Posted By: stang5
why do you think you need to arx the car? It's been fed synthetic oil it's whole life....


Lol, my eyes. It looks awful under the valve covers and in the valley. Totally covered and even textured.
 
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: stang5
why do you think you need to arx the car? It's been fed synthetic oil it's whole life....


Lol, my eyes. It looks awful under the valve covers and in the valley. Totally covered and even textured.


I see that you have said it LOOKS awful under the valve covers and in the valley, any chance you could take some before pics, and when you are done with the Clean and Rinse Phase of arx you can take some after pics and show us so we can compare the before and after pics.
 
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: 92GTA
Originally Posted By: stang5
why do you think you need to arx the car? It's been fed synthetic oil it's whole life....


Lol, my eyes. It looks awful under the valve covers and in the valley. Totally covered and even textured.


I see that you have said it LOOKS awful under the valve covers and in the valley, any chance you could take some before pics, and when you are done with the Clean and Rinse Phase of arx you can take some after pics and show us so we can compare the before and after pics.


Sorry, I just finished a top-end refresh and don't want to tear it apart again just for pics otherwise I would. I'd love to show how the cleaning abilities of Royal Purple are totally bogus even with good PCVs and changing it every 3,000 miles even though it didn't need it,
 
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