will do oil change eralier, maybe saturday, or sunday. Will post details later on.
Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry
- Thread starter zyxelenator
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Ok, so I did oil change today. Mileage was 5278, first ARX clean stage, with double dose.
Oil came out very dark,black. Similar to used oil from diesel engines. Arx is black and Moly additive is black/grey. No chunks or very thick oil. I would say looks normal. Before drain, I sprayed almost full can of Amsoil Powerfoam, into intake thru breather hole, while running engine. Bunch of smoke as after/during seafoam. Let it sit for about 10-15 min, meanwhile cleaned Maf with maf cleaner. Put all together, throttle body looks nice and clean. Ran to store to get some beer, and to get [censored] out after powerfoam.Car was running at little higher idle.
After oil change, I checked under PVC valve, looks clean enough, just little varnish, no sludge looking stuff.Valve was wet and oily so, I guess it works. Also night before I put in Lubro Moly valve cleaner right before fill up.
Now pics:
Oil that went in for rinse phase.
It is API SJ and SH, what I heard why those oils not certified higher, only because new oils should be looking gold/clear.
That's how that oils looks:
This oil is blend with lots of Moly in it.I hope I will bring full syntech version that looks toxic green, next spring from Europe, and than go to oil change place and see their reaction
)
P.S. Filter on is OCD, should be fine for 1000 mile run.
Oil came out very dark,black. Similar to used oil from diesel engines. Arx is black and Moly additive is black/grey. No chunks or very thick oil. I would say looks normal. Before drain, I sprayed almost full can of Amsoil Powerfoam, into intake thru breather hole, while running engine. Bunch of smoke as after/during seafoam. Let it sit for about 10-15 min, meanwhile cleaned Maf with maf cleaner. Put all together, throttle body looks nice and clean. Ran to store to get some beer, and to get [censored] out after powerfoam.Car was running at little higher idle.
After oil change, I checked under PVC valve, looks clean enough, just little varnish, no sludge looking stuff.Valve was wet and oily so, I guess it works. Also night before I put in Lubro Moly valve cleaner right before fill up.
Now pics:
Oil that went in for rinse phase.
It is API SJ and SH, what I heard why those oils not certified higher, only because new oils should be looking gold/clear.
That's how that oils looks:
This oil is blend with lots of Moly in it.I hope I will bring full syntech version that looks toxic green, next spring from Europe, and than go to oil change place and see their reaction
)P.S. Filter on is OCD, should be fine for 1000 mile run.
What I also liked about Lubro Moly that Gear Oil and Engine oil, when you pull the cap up it pulls out a hose,or like extension nozzle in case of engine oil, so It makes it easier to fill, even with that retarded filler on Camry. Even their Valve cleaner has twist on nozzle
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Oh, that's awesome! +2 on the updates!
So I ordered 4 more gallons of Valvoline thru amazon with a gread deal for 22 bucks
. It is 5w-20. My thought were to use Mobil devlac for the next fill since it should have more cleaners. Now I'm thinking about maybe fill it with 5w20 for better flow? But it will burn it more.Or to do 50/50 mix? And 3q of 5w20 with 2q of 15w40(or even one) for winter, but I beliave I will be done before winter... What do you think guys?
you gonna try some MMO in the rinse cycle?
no, after I'm done with arx, after 2 ocis.
I personally wouldn't run straight 5w-20 in this car, but that's just my gut feeling. A blend with other oils, like an HDEO blend; say T5? For a short interval as a rinse phase, sure.
I'm thinking about putting 1 jug of 5w20 and top it of with 1q 15w40 for cleaning phase... should work.
why all the blending? just pick a grade and go with it. maybe Pennzoil Conventional 10w40 if you want a little thicker... but a thicker oil is not going to clean as well (just my opinion)
blending because I have plenty of 15w40, 5gallons and will receive 4 gallons of 5w20 soon. 9 gallons of oil under 55 bucks is a great deal. Thinking to add 40 weight because summers here can go over 100 degrees and it's very humid. Don't think to thin oil would be good ...
care to offer an explain your reference to firing order and plug fouling the most on cyl 1 because firing order starts with cyl 1?
"""It makes sense if the firing order starts with cylinder 1"""
"""It makes sense if the firing order starts with cylinder 1"""
well you cant beat that price! id would have to use it too
I believe so: plugs there 2 4 6 top row,
1 3 5 bottom, as you look at the engine.
1 3 5 bottom, as you look at the engine.
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I am amazed at how that plug looks. At first glance I thought it was mechanical damage but it's giant deposits!
yeap,got covered in sluge looking stuff. Looks like it's coming out. After Arx will run short oci with MMO for about 1k. Then Kreen should finish it in another short, no longer than 500 miles oci. Just trying to stay on safe side and not to clug passages. Then thinking to use lurbo moly flushes or amsoil as preventive treatment every oci. Will create separate thread for each chemical. And will probably change out pvc valve after Kreen.
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
yeap,got covered in sluge looking stuff. Looks like it's coming out. After Arx will run short oci with MMO for about 1k. Then Kreen should finish it in another short, no longer than 500 miles oci. Just trying to stay on safe side and not to clug passages. Then thinking to use lurbo moly flushes or amsoil as preventive treatment every oci. Will create separate thread for each chemical. And will probably change out pvc valve after Kreen.
sounds good but i would go 1k with the kreen. after that it will burn off any way unless you add the other pint
yeap,got covered in sluge looking stuff. Looks like it's coming out. After Arx will run short oci with MMO for about 1k. Then Kreen should finish it in another short, no longer than 500 miles oci. Just trying to stay on safe side and not to clug passages. Then thinking to use lurbo moly flushes or amsoil as preventive treatment every oci. Will create separate thread for each chemical. And will probably change out pvc valve after Kreen.
sounds good but i would go 1k with the kreen. after that it will burn off any way unless you add the other pint
yeap,got covered in sluge looking stuff. Looks like it's coming out. After Arx will run short oci with MMO for about 1k. Then Kreen should finish it in another short, no longer than 500 miles oci. Just trying to stay on safe side and not to clug passages. Then thinking to use lurbo moly flushes or amsoil as preventive treatment every oci. Will create separate thread for each chemical. And will probably change out pvc valve after Kreen.
hmm, it keeps double posting, when i'm from my cell phone... Will do 1000 run with kreen then, but change a filter at 500 mark,just to feel safe. Another question would be 5-20 Valvoline or 15-40 mobil diesel oil with addition cleaners in it for those runs?
Little update. Topped off today, again (I usually do it on days off work) with left over of Lubro moly 10w40 and Pennzoil 20w50 mix. Added more Delvac oil, to make it to the full mark. While doing it thought about MMO. Did little search here, and came up with a thought, that it would be no problems mixing ARX and MMO during rinse phase. There should be no ARX left in the pan with my oil consumption rate. I am finishing my Heineken and going to get more and pick up a quart of MMO(which I will use for top of first during this phase) and smaller bottle for gas tank. Hope it will help with oil burning issue... Otherwise plan is still the same.
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