Audi A4 driveline noises

[Hokiefyd]

Some friends of ours have a recently-purchased 2005 A4. It's got over 100,000 miles, and was bought to replace a 2000 BMW X5 that was constantly being repaired. The Audi is beginning to earn a similar reputation, and I'm trying to help them out with diagnosis of various issues. They just spent $1,400 to replace two fuel pumps (the shop listed an engine fuel pump and a tank fuel pump?) and various fuel sensors and fittings. This is a 3.2 Quattro. I don't know if it's direct injected. I assume it might be.

The issue I'm trying to help them with is two driveline noises/clunks.

1) When first accelerating from a stop, and usually as you turn a corner, you can hear and feel a sequence of 3 to 5 clunks, appearing to come from the rear axle area. It feels to me like clutch packs that are too grabby, as if the fluid needs changing. But I know nothing about the Quattro system. I assume the rear end has some type of lubricating fluid in it.

2) When in a constant turn (like turning around in a parking lot), you can hear and feel a distinct growl from the drivetrain. It feels, again, like clutches aren't disengaging correctly. All four tires are new and are the same size. The previous tires were all worn evenly and were matching as well.

I've casually looked at some Audi sites, and get everything from replace the rear differential mounting hardware to rebuild the rear differential. I would appreciate any advice from those knowledgeable on these Quattro systems.

 

[GSCJR]

I would start with a fluid change in the rear diff and transfer case and then go from there.

 

[dparm]

The change interval on the rear diff is something like 95k but that's WAY too long in my opinion. I would absolutely get that changed out. The center differential fluid is probably quite old too, and that's where most of the clunking happens. It is considered somewhat normal for that center diff to be noisy at low-speed when the steering is at full lock.

It is not a direct-inject motor. It's a very pedestrian 3.2L V6, actually.

(former owner of 2005 S4, fwiw)

 

[dparm]

And at the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, they might want to stop buying German cars if they aren't keen on the idea of expensive maintenance.

Those cars can be plenty reliable but the maintenance on them is not cheap. I suggest they find a good indy shop instead of letting the dealer hit them at $120/hr+.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: dparm
And at the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, they might want to stop buying German cars if they aren't keen on the idea of expensive maintenance.

Those cars can be plenty reliable but the maintenance on them is not cheap. I suggest they find a good indy shop instead of letting the dealer hit them at $120/hr+.


Her husband is somewhat of a car brand "snob". It has to be European. She just wants a Honda or a Subaru.

It surprised me when they bought this car. He bought it on the Friday before he left on deployment to Afghanistan. The BMW gave her lots of trouble while he was gone on the previous deployment, so he wanted something more reliable. So he bought an Audi with 100,000 miles. I was thinking, "umm...."

This is at an indy shop, too. Their rates seem reasonable. They are on a first-name basis with this place; it's the only place in town that works on European cars. I told her that it's probably not a good thing that the counter person knows both of their kids on a first name basis.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I told her that it's probably not a good thing that the counter person knows both of their kids on a first name basis.


I guess that it probably depends on which side of the counter you're on

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: dparm
The change interval on the rear diff is something like 95k but that's WAY too long in my opinion. I would absolutely get that changed out. The center differential fluid is probably quite old too, and that's where most of the clunking happens. It is considered somewhat normal for that center diff to be noisy at low-speed when the steering is at full lock.

It is not a direct-inject motor. It's a very pedestrian 3.2L V6, actually.

(former owner of 2005 S4, fwiw)


Actually it is the FSI engine, hence the two fuel pumps. The in-tank electric fuel pump and the high pressure engine driven fuel pump.

Audi always got the FSI straight away while VW got the non-FSI for the R32. The V6 I think you might be thinking about is the 3.0 which was a regular indirect injection engine.

The only other Audi's I know of that may have got the non-fsi version are the TT and maybe the A3 but I swore A3 was always FSI at least in USA.

http://www.amsoil.com/mygarage/VehicleLookupPage.aspx?FromIndex=1&url2=2005+AUDI+A4 QUATTRO+G

Odds are like any other Subaru/Audi/VW layout for an automatic you have the rear diff/front diff but also in Audi's case it looks like they separated out the center diff from the automatic transmission. That makes sense since Audi always uses torsen diffs in just about everything.

So by Amsoil's accounts GL5 for the rear and GL4 for the front & center. If it was a manual transmission then the front/transmission/center would all be combined which is exactly the way Subaru does it as well.

Checking the mounts for the rear diff certainly isn't a bad idea but if you are turning full lock you will get some binding and noise no matter what.

The Forester even does it backing out with the multi-clutch based AWD. You can feel a little clunk.

 

[hypervish]

I used to have a 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8T. What a nightmare, I would have just kept the BMW in their situation. At least they know what has been replaced and what hasn't.

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: hypervish
I used to have a 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8T. What a nightmare, I would have just kept the BMW in their situation. At least they know what has been replaced and what hasn't.


The 1.8T was a known problem engine across many models.

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Actually it is the FSI engine, hence the two fuel pumps. The in-tank electric fuel pump and the high pressure engine driven fuel pump.

Audi always got the FSI straight away while VW got the non-FSI for the R32. The V6 I think you might be thinking about is the 3.0 which was a regular indirect injection engine.



My mistake, didn't realize there were two versions of that motor.

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: dparm
And at the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, they might want to stop buying German cars if they aren't keen on the idea of expensive maintenance.

Those cars can be plenty reliable but the maintenance on them is not cheap. I suggest they find a good indy shop instead of letting the dealer hit them at $120/hr+.


Her husband is somewhat of a car brand "snob". It has to be European. She just wants a Honda or a Subaru.

It surprised me when they bought this car. He bought it on the Friday before he left on deployment to Afghanistan. The BMW gave her lots of trouble while he was gone on the previous deployment, so he wanted something more reliable. So he bought an Audi with 100,000 miles. I was thinking, "umm...."

This is at an indy shop, too. Their rates seem reasonable. They are on a first-name basis with this place; it's the only place in town that works on European cars. I told her that it's probably not a good thing that the counter person knows both of their kids on a first name basis.



I wouldn't buy any used car (let alone high-mileage AND European) unless it had a very good service history.

 

[Vikas]

Quote:
Some friends of ours have a recently-purchased 2005 A4. It's got over 100,000 miles, and was bought to replace a 2000 BMW X5 that was constantly being repaired.
Ha! Ha!! What is the expression "from frying pan in to the fire" or vice versa?

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Actually it is the FSI engine, hence the two fuel pumps. The in-tank electric fuel pump and the high pressure engine driven fuel pump.

Audi always got the FSI straight away while VW got the non-FSI for the R32. The V6 I think you might be thinking about is the 3.0 which was a regular indirect injection engine.



My mistake, didn't realize there were two versions of that motor.


Ya it is goofy...I kinda wish they would have got an older one like a 3.0. No FSI stuff to deal with to the tune of $1200.

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: dparm
And at the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, they might want to stop buying German cars if they aren't keen on the idea of expensive maintenance.

Those cars can be plenty reliable but the maintenance on them is not cheap. I suggest they find a good indy shop instead of letting the dealer hit them at $120/hr+.


Her husband is somewhat of a car brand "snob". It has to be European. She just wants a Honda or a Subaru.

It surprised me when they bought this car. He bought it on the Friday before he left on deployment to Afghanistan. The BMW gave her lots of trouble while he was gone on the previous deployment, so he wanted something more reliable. So he bought an Audi with 100,000 miles. I was thinking, "umm...."

This is at an indy shop, too. Their rates seem reasonable. They are on a first-name basis with this place; it's the only place in town that works on European cars. I told her that it's probably not a good thing that the counter person knows both of their kids on a first name basis.



I wouldn't buy any used car (let alone high-mileage AND European) unless it had a very good service history.


Neighbor across the from me bought a 2011 A4 w/ the 2.0t new and put almost 90k on it the first year. No it burns about one qt. of oil every 1k miles. He isn't pleased but I can only assume he let the dealer in NJ maintain it so he is hoping Audi of NA will help him in some way.

 

[scurvy]

Originally Posted By: dparm
And at the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, they might want to stop buying German cars if they aren't keen on the idea of expensive maintenance.

Those cars can be plenty reliable but the maintenance on them is not cheap. I suggest they find a good indy shop instead of letting the dealer hit them at $120/hr+.


Quoted for truth. There's nothing more expensive than a cheap German car!

 

[dparm]

Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: dparm
And at the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious, they might want to stop buying German cars if they aren't keen on the idea of expensive maintenance.

Those cars can be plenty reliable but the maintenance on them is not cheap. I suggest they find a good indy shop instead of letting the dealer hit them at $120/hr+.


Her husband is somewhat of a car brand "snob". It has to be European. She just wants a Honda or a Subaru.

It surprised me when they bought this car. He bought it on the Friday before he left on deployment to Afghanistan. The BMW gave her lots of trouble while he was gone on the previous deployment, so he wanted something more reliable. So he bought an Audi with 100,000 miles. I was thinking, "umm...."

This is at an indy shop, too. Their rates seem reasonable. They are on a first-name basis with this place; it's the only place in town that works on European cars. I told her that it's probably not a good thing that the counter person knows both of their kids on a first name basis.



I wouldn't buy any used car (let alone high-mileage AND European) unless it had a very good service history.


Neighbor across the from me bought a 2011 A4 w/ the 2.0t new and put almost 90k on it the first year. No it burns about one qt. of oil every 1k miles. He isn't pleased but I can only assume he let the dealer in NJ maintain it so he is hoping Audi of NA will help him in some way.



90k in one year? Is he driving across the country every week?

 

[Hokiefyd]

Thanks for the information on the fluid, guys!

 

[Thermo1223]

Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd


Her husband is somewhat of a car brand "snob". It has to be European. She just wants a Honda or a Subaru.

It surprised me when they bought this car. He bought it on the Friday before he left on deployment to Afghanistan. The BMW gave her lots of trouble while he was gone on the previous deployment, so he wanted something more reliable. So he bought an Audi with 100,000 miles. I was thinking, "umm...."

This is at an indy shop, too. Their rates seem reasonable. They are on a first-name basis with this place; it's the only place in town that works on European cars. I told her that it's probably not a good thing that the counter person knows both of their kids on a first name basis.



I wouldn't buy any used car (let alone high-mileage AND European) unless it had a very good service history.


Neighbor across the from me bought a 2011 A4 w/ the 2.0t new and put almost 90k on it the first year. No it burns about one qt. of oil every 1k miles. He isn't pleased but I can only assume he let the dealer in NJ maintain it so he is hoping Audi of NA will help him in some way.



90k in one year? Is he driving across the country every week?


Apparently he drives 150 miles daily too work and made a few trips to FL. Then apparently you'd assume he drives to average places we all do. The best I could tally it be close to 75k. So maybe 1 1/2 years he meant. It is a lot of driving either way.

He said he spent almost $900 a month on fuel.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Gotta admit, a client has a new A6 in the garage and it just may have the nicest black paint i have ever seen on a new car. Simply stunning.

You may have a problem with the mechanicals, but their fit and finish is top notch!

 

[threeputtpar]

Easiest and cheapest thing to do first is to change out the fluids of the front, center, and rear diffs. The rear should have a drain plug, but the other two will have to be suctioned out. The center is a bit difficult to get at, though.

If that doesn't do anything, check the mounts on the rear diff and the trans. When they start to go, they get really sloppy.

If still no luck, then it may be the center carrier bearing on the driveshaft. The shaft is also connected to the trans and rear diff through CV joints, so those may be going bad also. If that's the case, contact Scotty at Advance Automation and see if he makes a one piece driveshaft for the B6 A4. I know he does for the B5 A4 and the C5 A6, the only down side is it doesn't come with new CV joints unless you pay extra for them. Still cheaper than OEM and you won't need the jig to keep the two parts of the shaft aligned on install.