Joe, I just changed the engine oil on my 5.4L SOHC V8 in the E-250, and I still don't understand how you could have gotten an empty oil filter during the change. I must have gotten 1/2 qt draining out of the engine oil cooler and another 1/2 qt from the oil filter. There's no way for the oil to drain back into the engine at all. If anything it would all drain into the oil filter. I used a Penske PN2 (Wix) at the time, I am now using the newer style SuperTech ST2 (bypass plate on the base of the oil filter with the holes, not the FL-820S style bypass valve).
Attn: joee12, re: FL-820S
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Hey Metro, thanks for the post. I never had trouble from the FL820s on my Explorer, because the filter is mounted vertically. I had the dry filters from a K&N and a Supertech on my Acura Integra. The filter is mounted horizontally on the side of the engine. Both filters were not oversized. I am now using either the HAMP(Honda Aftermarket Parts) or the Honda OEM(made by Filtech) on my Acura. I am glad to see you have switched to the FL820s, I think you will be happy with it, Joe
[ May 19, 2003, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: joee12 ]
[ May 19, 2003, 03:47 PM: Message edited by: joee12 ]
Joe: come to think of it you're right, it wasn't the Ford you were talking about.
Did you figure out why the ST and K&N didn't hold oil when you changed it? Just a crappy bypass valve design?
I'm going to the FL-820S for my Vic which will be used with Mobil 1 5w30, the 5.4 is still being broken in w/ conventional oil so I'm still experimenting with oil filters.
How significant is the use of the red silicone anti-drain back valve?
Did you figure out why the ST and K&N didn't hold oil when you changed it? Just a crappy bypass valve design?
I'm going to the FL-820S for my Vic which will be used with Mobil 1 5w30, the 5.4 is still being broken in w/ conventional oil so I'm still experimenting with oil filters.
How significant is the use of the red silicone anti-drain back valve?
Metroplex, a Purolater tech told me that a silicon valve retains it flexibility longer than the standard black nitrile valve. The red silicon valve on the Motorcraft is the same one from the Pureone.
Early versions of the 4.6 used 10w30. Then the recommendations for the 4.6 / 5.4 /6.8 were all set as 5w30, and more recently 5w20.
5w30 is showing AOK in these engines, no need to go to the 10w30.
5w30 or 5w20 (if comfortable) would be my choices in these engines.
5w30 is showing AOK in these engines, no need to go to the 10w30.
5w30 or 5w20 (if comfortable) would be my choices in these engines.
I have a 2000 Explorer with a 5.0 and a 97 F-150 with a 5.4 and have tried both the Motorcraft and the Supertech ST-2. I bought several ST-2 filters when I could still find the black ones with the Ford style bypass valve on the base. So far I can tell no difference. I will probably go back to the FL820S on the Explorer because of the silicon ADBV as it mounts nearly horizontally. My F-150 is remote mounted vertically and I will continue to use the Supertech. No top end noise from either of the engines useing either filter. 5W30 Mobil 1 in the Explorer and 5W30 Motorcraft in the piston slapping F-150. (105,000 miles and still runs very strong though)
seldont- I'd love to see an analysis of the oil out of that piston slapper. Some of the chevy engines with cold start knock have really shown some bad numbers. I'd be curoius to see the F150 numbers!
I have two friends with slapping 5.4's, both over 150,000 miles and they run extremely well! Seems that it has not affected durability!
I have two friends with slapping 5.4's, both over 150,000 miles and they run extremely well! Seems that it has not affected durability!
If I ever get around to doing another analysis I will post for you. It has slapped since 40,000 miles and has not seemed to have gotten much worse. 2 of my co workers have the 5.4 also and although one did launch a spark plug neither have had durability issues due to the piston slap. And they both do have the piston slap. Mostly when cold just like mine.
It is completely safe to use 10w30 in a 4.6L/5.4L Ford. As I have posted in other threads, Ford only uses the 20 weight oil for CAFE numbers. In all actuality (real world applications) you should use nothing lighter than a 30 weight oil. Whether you choose a 5W or 10W should be determined by the ambient temps. in your area. For the first 97 4.6L F-150's, Ford suggested 5w30, then in 2001 the switch to the "PI" heads was the only difference, mechanically, for that they suggested 5W-20. Here's the catch: the "4.6L PI" heads are compatable with all 4.6L motors, even the ones recommending 5w30 oil. I do not feel safe putting 5W-20 oil in my slightly modified motor. I drive in severe traffic, city driving, and sometimes at high speeds. This puts incredible stress on my engine. What it comes down to is how comfortable are you with putting an oil (that looks good on paper{oil analysis}) in an engine that is going to be run in the real world? I will let others prove that 5W-20 is a great antiwear oil, but the 97 4.6L is pushing 200,000 miles on Mobil 1 10w30, and it is still running strong w/ no mechanical work done to it.
mf150: that's EXACTLY what I'm saying however 10w30 vs 5w30 is very different from 5w30 vs 5W-20.
Here's something interesting:
for 2000 Crown Vics, they had Romeo built 4.6L SOHC V8s with NPI heads, they used 5w30.
For 2001 Crown Vics, they had Romeo built 4.6L SOHC V8s with PI heads Ford wants 5W-20.
Now the only main difference would be in the different cam profiles and cylinder heads.
For 99-00 Mustang GTs, they had Windsor built 4.6L SOHC V8s with PI heads and used 5w30.
For 01 GTs, they got Romeo Built 4.6L SOHC V8s with PI heads (same exact engine as the Vic) and Ford wants 5W-20.
Interesting that in 2000, a GT would run fine on 5w30 in a superior engine (Windsor engines are better than Romeo engines) then in 2001 Ford wants you to use 5W-20 in a Romeo motor. hmmm
Anyhow, 10w30 vs 5w30 is a totally different issue because we're dealing with cold start viscosities.
In an OHC engine, its IMPERATIVE you get oil into the top end (valvetrain) ASAP. 10w30 MIGHT cut it in warm to hot areas (Southeast, Southwest US) year round, but you cannot recommend 10w30 for year round use on the modular motor.
For the sake of simplicity, I'd just stock up on one oil (5w30) and use that year round seeing how the mod motors run fine on 5w30.
Here's something interesting:
for 2000 Crown Vics, they had Romeo built 4.6L SOHC V8s with NPI heads, they used 5w30.
For 2001 Crown Vics, they had Romeo built 4.6L SOHC V8s with PI heads Ford wants 5W-20.
Now the only main difference would be in the different cam profiles and cylinder heads.
For 99-00 Mustang GTs, they had Windsor built 4.6L SOHC V8s with PI heads and used 5w30.
For 01 GTs, they got Romeo Built 4.6L SOHC V8s with PI heads (same exact engine as the Vic) and Ford wants 5W-20.
Interesting that in 2000, a GT would run fine on 5w30 in a superior engine (Windsor engines are better than Romeo engines) then in 2001 Ford wants you to use 5W-20 in a Romeo motor. hmmm
Anyhow, 10w30 vs 5w30 is a totally different issue because we're dealing with cold start viscosities.
In an OHC engine, its IMPERATIVE you get oil into the top end (valvetrain) ASAP. 10w30 MIGHT cut it in warm to hot areas (Southeast, Southwest US) year round, but you cannot recommend 10w30 for year round use on the modular motor.
For the sake of simplicity, I'd just stock up on one oil (5w30) and use that year round seeing how the mod motors run fine on 5w30.
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