Are synthetics good break-in oils?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jun 29, 2005
Messages
340
Location
E. Texas
My honda has the vtec 6cyl (3.5, I think) engine. The book says to run the factory oil until the OLM says between 5%-15% life expentency. I was thinking of just going with a good 5W20 dino that Hondas are suppose to like such as Motorcraft, Havoline and several others that have had good UOA with Hondas.

The more I read here, however, the more I am inclined to try a synthetic such as MobilOne. I have heard that it might be best, at factory oil drain time, to use another dino similar to what the factory puts in (I think ExxonMobil makes the factory oil for Honda). Then, go to synthetic after that and for each oil change thereafter if you wish. Does this make sense?

Seems to me that if you want to go synthetic why not do it at the first OCI rather than the second or third? One of the guys at the Honda Ridgeline forum said an engine is not broken in for 10,000 miles. Once it is, go synthetic if you choose but better to stay with dino until then. Again, I don't know the reason for this.

I have heard some cars come with synthetic direct from the factory so his statement can't be right. Any thoughts on when to change over to synthetics in a brand new vehicle?
 
Redline doesn't recommend using their flavor of synthetic until at least 3k miles. I wouldn't use synthetic on a new car right away (or at least not the next time) b/c it seems to be a waste of money. I would recommend 3-5k mile OCI with your Honda until 10, 15, 20k miles or so. This will help the wear metals trend downward a fair amount. Dino will do just fine for that service unless you are racing, of course.
 
Any time you feel like it.
The factory initial fill often has extra moly [maybe some other additives for break in], and it is good to leave it in for awhile before changing.
I wouldn't go as long as 15% life left, though.
 
The worst thing a synthetic is going to do on a production engine is extend the residual break in period.

It also depends on the definition of "break in".

Virtually all of the critical break in on an engine takes place long before your dealer ever sees the thing. That means the ring to cylinder seating.

And it's always done on dino, even on the Corvette engines. They don't pump in the M1 until AFTER the foundary break is done, usually on a straight 30 weight.

Unless the manufacturer expressly specifies a break in formula, run synthetic whenever you like. It won't harm anything.
 
some engines are broken in on syn.

There has been some data on here that explained the value of keeping the break-in oil in for the full duration.

Id say that M1 is a good choice, after you use the super high moly break in oil that came in the car.

JMH
 
Just going on memory, but if you look at the UOA wear metals on the Honda V-6, it looks like nearly all the break-in is complete by 10k miles.

Why use syn for break-in?
 
my 2005 CTS 3.6L VVT V6 came with Mobil 1 from the OEM.

If its good for the Cadi, the Corvette and many other premium cars, one would think the reason its not in other cars is becuase they are too cheap to use it.

and btw, 4,100 miles and still going on the factory fill, OLM says 63% oil life remaing. 1 qt added to date. Oil is very clean amd amber color.

quote:

if you look at the UOA wear metals on the Honda V-6, it looks like nearly all the break-in is complete by 10k miles.

So maybe if syntheic oil was used from break-in, you can say this "if you look at the UOA wear metals on the Honda V-6, it looks like nearly all the break-in is complete by 100k miles."


Breakin = engine wear.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Volvohead:


...Unless the manufacturer expressly specifies a break in formula, run synthetic whenever you like. It won't harm anything.


Wrong! If the manufacturer specified dino oil for your car from the factory use dino oil. Only switch to synthetic after approximately 12000 miles. This allows for the engine to properly break-in. You may be prone to oil leaks if you make the switch prematurely.
 
I maintain my wife's 2003 Accord which we purchased new. I have changed the oil at 5K intervals since new. At 5k I began using Mobil 1 0w20 and puralater pureone filters.I tried just changing the filter and adding 1/2 qt at 35k. At 250 miles later I checked the oil and found it to be black as coal so at that moment I said to **** with Mobil 1 and changed to Motorcraft 5w20 blend which is less than half the cost of M1. If you plan on 5k oil and filter changes a blend will be just fine.
 
quote:

martyi:

.... I have heard that it might be best, at factory oil drain time, to use another dino similar to what the factory puts in (I think ExxonMobil makes the factory oil for Honda). Then, go to synthetic after that and for each oil change thereafter if you wish. Does this make sense? ....

There really isn't much break-in with many new cars. Corvette, Porsche, Dodge Viper, and a number of other cars come with Mobil 1 as factory fill.

If your car has 3,000 or more miles on it and isn't using oil, there isn't any reason not to switch to a synthetic if you're going to use synthetic motor oils.

For those of us who deal with older cars and rebuild engines, where the parts aren't up to modern standards and the machining methods aren't state-of-the-art, there is still a break-in period and for that you don't want to use a synthetic.


.
 
Hi,
IMHO and experience, Mickey_M's comments are really on the money;

"There really isn't much break-in with many new cars. Corvette, Porsche, Dodge Viper, and a number of other cars come with Mobil 1 as factory fill.

If your car has 3,000 or more miles on it and isn't using oil, there isn't any reason not to switch to a synthetic if you're going to use synthetic motor oils.

For those of us who deal with older cars and rebuild engines, where the parts aren't up to modern standards and the machining methods aren't state-of-the-art, there is still a break-in period and for that you don't want to use a synthetic."

I follow this in practice (also see NOTE below) as I believe synthetic oils will enhance the residual break-in period which can go on for 120k or so in some engine families
Detroit Diesel say that their new chrome ring packs will take at least this long to bed in in certain applications

NOTE: Certain engine manufacturers factory fill with a special oil to ensure that the correct rate of break-in in achieved. If their Instruction is to keep the factory fill in for a certain period this should be followed. If there is an Instruction to use a certain Approved and or Quality of oil then this should also be followed

Doug
cheers.gif
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom