are chrysler 2.7 as bad as the internet portrays.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Apr 28, 2011
Messages
3,894
Location
missouri usa
There are tons of 2.7 horror stories. If good oil is used and its well cared for will they last a long time? Is it truly just an engine design issue or are they just sensitive to proper maintenance? All input is appreciated
 
2.7 is a problem engine for the one responsible to pay for the rebuild the engine shops dont even like them but make a lot of money on them
 
I wouldn't risk it if you're looking at buying a car with one. They sludge really easily from some bad PCV design or something like that. Short OCI with good oil and constantly cleaning the PCV valve may get around the issue but hard to say. They often failed under 100K miles
 
I am considering one my buddy has it for sale he is putting a fresh rebuilt engine in it. I am nervous about it though. I wssnt sure why 2.7 fail thought maybe mobil 1 every 5000 would keep it golden.....maybe? Was there any year when they fixed the sludge problem in the 2.7
 
I've got one and would buy another. After spending countless hours on a forum for them there was nobody on the forum that had one fail early but most used synthetic and changed often. PVC system issues and high under hood temps.
 
In 02 they added a heater to the PVC system. Helped some but sludge still happened for some. I use am soil and change at 5k. My brother has 130k on his and uses dino. Changes every 3k
 
PVC system, temps, head design, and water pump design all contribute to this engine being a complete failure. I have one that I'm fixing and it's terribad. The water pump design has to be the worst and probably kills many thousands of these things every year. The water pump is contained inside the timing chain cover, which has oil all around it. They were known for water pump leakage, which leaked directly into the engine oil.
 
Which car? Mine is in an intrepid. Underpowered and low on torque. The 3.3 that the 2.7 replaced was a better engine. Many people have converted to the 3.2 or 3.5
 
-_____- NO! buy and 03 or newer and you'll be fine as long as the previous owner took care of it. Change the PCV valve every 30k and the oil at 5k and the motor is just fine. The PCV system was redesigned in 02, if you try to take the oil cap off our Stratus with the engine running there's a good vacuum on it. We've had ZERO problems with it and the motor is clean.
 
At some point, Chrysler made the water pump less problematic and sludge contributing. I want to say around '04.

The water pump is an engineering nightmare.

In spite of having to push around 2 tons of car, the 2.7s in the LX models (300, Magnum, Charger) seem to hold up pretty well sans sludge. I still wouldn't want one. Not only is it an engineering nightmare but it is slllllooooooooowwwww. There is a 300 near my job. Loud giant dual exhausts, giant chrome "rims" and I can keep pace with him breaking his foot off in the accelerator with my Mazda merrily short shifting it's way to 6th gear. By V6 standards, my 6 is underpowered. How bad is this thing that it has to rev that high to match my regular acceleration. I know the wheels are acceleration killers but this thing is really screaming. I'm certain it's a 2.7
 
The 2.7 was a bad motor early on but most of the engineering problems were tweaked out in 04 . These engines were underpowered in the larger Chrysler cars but did ok in the smaller ones. Frequent almost obsessive maintenance is the key too long life for any year 2.7L . I would use a very high quality full syn at ridiculously short oci's to ensure cleanliness i.e 3-5K miles. Clean and fresh coolant is a must do due the water pump design on this engine , ensure complete flush and fill with G-05 every 2 years. PCV system must be maintained flawlessly as well. The 2.7L was not a engine that tolerated neglectful owners at all , which along with engineering that was not practical gave it a terrible reputation.
 
2.7L in a 2004 Dodge Stratus. Kendall 5w-30 with Liquid Titanium on 3,000 mile intervals with a purolator pure one every time, kept mine purring like a champion to a 150,000 miles with no signs of issues. Engine never felt underpowered, always ran hard and strong. This car made me absolutely OCD about oil changes, types of oil, filters, air filters, PCV valves (ALWAYS use OEM), coolant and transmission fluid changes (Also OEM Mopar is best) every 30,000 miles.

Keep up with the maintenance and you should have no issues, my experience is far from many but they are not bad motors as long as you're a BITOGer
wink.gif
 
Thats what I was going to ask next. If a bitoger owns a 2.7 are they ok. I maintenance my car for fun so believe me itll never miss an oil change. I was kinda thinking mobil 1 or pp every 5, 000 I assume that would be ok?
 
The sad thing is that when Chrysler designed that engine,it was aiming for a "world class" engine in the small cube/DOHC/High HP league.Whoever came up with the placement of that water pump should have been fired immediately.Had I been Chrysler I would have saved the money and turned the 3.3 OHV engine into a tiger.Beefed up pistons and rods,possibly a supercharger...you name it,it would have been cheaper in the long run.
 
Its a bad motor. Used car prices are high now so not worth the risk. Move on.

If a motor is designed properly it should use spec'ed engine oil(cheap dino) and have decent UOA. This one does not, pass......
 
I own a 98 Intrepid. The have a host of issues. From the Catalytic Converter being right up next to the side of the engine, this doesn't help keep the engine cool, plus the Cat. is cooking the oil on the passenger side, which is where the oil returns to the sump. It's best to go full synthetic and have a lot less headache and worry's. Do change the coolant as it was stated in prior post, make sure you have the correct thermostat in the car. Clean PCV often, especially if it's is old design. Water Pump is a huge issue on this car, replaced mine already at 75,000 miles, it started leaking out of the weep holes. This is a big job to change the water pump( remove intake, valve cover, pully's, front engine cover), cost can be up $750 to $1000 or more dollars, because in that engine you don't simply want to change the pump, you want to do the timing chain, tensioners also. If I where you I try to find a different car, but if that is all you can get right now, be warned, the car can be high maintenance.
 
Friend of mine bought a 1999 Intrepid in 2006. He had it until late 2011. Never had a problem with the engine ... but the "frame" rusted out and it couldn't pass inspection.

I lived in the same apartment complex as he did and saw him driving a few times. It wasn't puffing out smoke and sounded good. He just got the cheap $15 quick lube changes.

However, I do remember that the 2.7 Intrepids were slower. They were slower than my 00 taurus (granted ,they weighed more and had taller tires). But their "world" high-tech engine not being able to compete with an 80s 2-valve pushrod v6
 
Last edited:
I had one (Intrepid). It was a pain to drive daily a car that if the water pump failed the engine was toast. Even with regular PCV cleaning and PP the engine was never very clean inside. Also bad was how Toyota minivans would leave you in their dust from a stop light.
Luckily for me I had someone who wanted to buy the car. I told him to run synthetic every 3000 miles. I breathed a sigh of relief when he paid for it and he drove it home.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top