Are Amsoil EAO Filters Actually Better?

They don't buy the high efficiency Amsoil filters to go along with their high mileage oil? Doing long OCIs while running a low efficiency oil filter isn't a good combination.
How many people here actually do extended OCI's? A few. I ALWAYS ask my customers if they are going extended OCI 10K-15K+. You do make a good point about extended OCI. I believe Amsoil does well as it reaches capacity and has a better capacity.

5K oil change? Heck you just said the same.

What car/engine? Driving habits? OCI? Sump capacity? Climate? All standard questions.

You can use the mean efficiency filter and not be afraid a a buzzwords such as "debris being ground between moving parts".

Point of all this?

99% filtration @20micron or 99% @15microns EITHER will be just fine for 5K miles. Total Overkill! Show me a study that proves either would be better.
 
Point of all this?

99% filtration @20micron or 99% @15microns EITHER will be just fine for 5K miles. Total Overkill! Show me a study that proves either would be better.
Those are not your typical filter efficiencies - those filters are in the high efficiency realm of consumer filters. As been said many times before, you have to compare ISO oil cleanliness numbers between something like a filter rated at 99% @ 20u vs one rated at 99% @ 40u or 50% @ 20u to see the noticeable difference (see figure below). Study info has been linked many times. Higher efficiency filters result in cleaner oil, which means less engine wear. Running a low efficiency oil filter for a long OCI is a bad combination. Engine wear is proportional to the oil cleanliness times the number of times the sump is circulated through the oiling system.

Like said before ... every wear study proves that cleaner oil results in less engine wear. Nothing will prove otherwise. Still waiting for someone to link even one study that says cleaner oil doesn't result in less wear between moving parts.

Figure from a Cummings engine wear vs oil filtration study. Red annotations is the difference between a filter 99% @ 20u vs 99% @ 40u. Bypass filtration would be needed to get to the 99% @ 5-10u level.

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I never said those two are typical.

Read the OP.

He told me he is doing a 5K interval. Either filter will be overkill. Or using a 25 or 30u filter will not allow measurable wear in 5K miles. 50u is above the mean I am thinking.

For super long above 25K miles of course bypass is the way to go.
 
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I never said those two are typical.

Read the OP.

He told me he is doing a 5K interval. Either filter will be overkill. Or using a 25 or 30u filter will not cause measurable destructive wear in 5K miles. 50u is
Nobody is talking about "destructive wear" ... who claimed that? Not even 99% @ 50u is "destructive wear". There is a huge difference between engine "destruction" and extra engine wear. The main point is that cleaner oil causes less wear over the long run. No study will say otherwise.
 
Nobody is talking about "destructive wear" ... who claimed that? Not even 99% @ 50u is "destructive wear". There is a huge difference between engine "destruction" and extra engine wear. The main point is that cleaner oil causes less wear over the long run. No study will say otherwise.
True.

I was interrupted before I finished typing and then hit post before I was complete. Please re-read.
 
Thanks, Zee, yes I've seen his videos, I've always thought you really can't tell much just from disassembling and looking, but for the question I had, that does answer it. New media thinner, but more of it.

The next up video on You Tube when I watched it was more interesting to me than the one you sent:



I commented that nobody noticed the Fram has a fibre gasket where the filter meets the relief valve bracket, Amsoil is metal to metal.

Amsoil does have more threads on the baseplate, though.

Revisited this thread, this is where I noticed the Ultra with the gasket at the bypass valve, & Amsoil metal to metal. If we're talking <20u, metal to metal probably will allow that through.
 

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In regard to my last post, the newer XGs that Whip City opened up do NOT have the gasket area around the bypass valve. In fact NONE of the "higher end" RP, AMS, or Fram have it (anymore). More cost cutting?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5ULRcCNy5E

In this video, the Fram Endurance & Royal Purple are identical, in fact probably identical to the Amsoil, just different color can & ADV. Also, the Fram XG base media really shows up as cellulose/synthetic blend, where Fram advertises it as synthetic blend.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOIUfX6nFvw

The Titanium seems the strongest, with the wire backing. If it is the full synthetic media as the OG XG had, this may be the best choice
 
In regard to my last post, the newer XGs that Whip City opened up do NOT have the gasket area around the bypass valve. In fact NONE of the "higher end" RP, AMS, or Fram have it (anymore). More cost cutting?

www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5ULRcCNy5E

In this video, the Fram Endurance & Royal Purple are identical, in fact probably identical to the Amsoil, just different color can & ADV. Also, the Fram XG base media really shows up as cellulose/synthetic blend, where Fram advertises it as synthetic blend.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=eOIUfX6nFvw

The Titanium seems the strongest, with the wire backing. If it is the full synthetic media as the OG XG had, this may be the best choice
The titanium that I recently C&P'd had the gasket, it was the OG Ultra media with the wire backing. Basically just looked like an XG2 with a different baseplate and covered in grippy paint.
 
The titanium that I recently C&P'd had the gasket, it was the OG Ultra media with the wire backing. Basically just looked like an XG2 with a different baseplate and covered in grippy paint.
Do you remember the date code or when you did this?
 
Do you remember the date code or when you did this?

Let me see if I can get the date code off the other ones.
 
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