APEX Ultimate Striker Block For The M&P

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Feb 28, 2003
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Cajun Country, La.
Has anyone installed the APEX Ultimate Striker Block in their M&P? I'm thinking this is what my M&P's are lacking in order to get rid of the dreaded "RIDING OVER A SPEED BUMP" feel right before the trigger breaks. I have taken the plunger from 2 of my M&P's and sanded/polished them. It only does so much. From what I'm reading about the APEX plunger they have sort of changed the surface geometry of it. And that gets rid of that feeling right before the trigger breaks.
 
in my experience , its not the block, but the plunger spring that is making the most difference. SW uses a really strong one, while the apex kit less so.
 
in my experience , its not the block, but the plunger spring that is making the most difference. SW uses a really strong one, while the apex kit less so.
I agree, the spring does play a major role. But, I think it's how APEX has changed the geometry of the plunger so when you pull the trigger it's smoother before the trigger bar engages the sear cam. That's the "SPEED BUMP" feel I'm wanting to get rid of.
 
I installed the USB in one of my 1.0 M&P FS 40's. It also has an APEX polymer trigger. The trigger is now the CATS ARSE!:
This FS 1.0 40 M&P was a test gun to see how the parts l installed, would make the trigger feel. IMHO, it feels much better than a 2.0 trigger. The pull is 4.66 lbs.
I'm thinking about adding the same parts to my other (3) 1.0 M&P's.
Does anyone else own the FS 1.0 M&P with the same parts installed?
 
i put the duty trigger kit . sear, block and poly trigger , but did not use the duty spring. jsut used the stock trigger spring. to my surprise the trigger weight was 2.75 # according to my trigger scale. i am used to 1 1/2 # on my 2011 and 2.5 # on my 1911, but this seems strange . it must have been the take up and the lack of a heavy wall.
 
Has anyone installed the APEX Ultimate Striker Block in their M&P? I'm thinking this is what my M&P's are lacking in order to get rid of the dreaded "RIDING OVER A SPEED BUMP" feel right before the trigger breaks. I have taken the plunger from 2 of my M&P's and sanded/polished them. It only does so much. From what I'm reading about the APEX plunger they have sort of changed the surface geometry of it. And that gets rid of that feeling right before the trigger breaks.
I bought a M&P Shield in 9MM. Rumored to have the best trigger of the M&P group. I liked it so much I sold the Glock 23, and bought a M&P 40C. That trigger was not as good. I bought a Frog Lube Frog Tube, and gave them a good cleaning, and lube. Very happy with both. Frog Lube isn't flammable, and you can use it on a bath towel. Throw the towel in the washer, and call it a day. Many in the "AR" community like it because it doesn't foul as much as other lubricants.
 
i put the duty trigger kit . sear, block and poly trigger , but did not use the duty spring. jsut used the stock trigger spring. to my surprise the trigger weight was 2.75 # according to my trigger scale. i am used to 1 1/2 # on my 2011 and 2.5 # on my 1911, but this seems strange . it must have been the take up and the lack of a heavy wall.
I would never never want anything less than 4# on a SD firearm. The 4 1/2+ on the OP's is perfect.
 
The Apex striker block is a standard part of my M&P 2.0 action job. That and a Performance Center sear housing available on e-Bay from Freestone Armory and your M&P will have a slick and crisp break and audible/tactile reset. Installing those two parts will turn any M&P 2.0 into a Performance Center pistol for under $100.
 
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