Have any of you tried HPL Green in a Toyota WS application? To be more specific I am curious about a Gen4 Prius, that being the 2017 Prius V in my signature.
Anyone Using HPL Green in a Toyota WS Application?
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Idemitsu Type TLS-LV is $7.69/quart plus shipping in any quantity at Rock Auto. HPL ATF Green is $13.66/quart plus shipping after the BITOG discount in a minimum quantity of six quarts. This wasn't a question about the cost. HPL ATF Green claims to be suitable for numerous applications but if you Google the compatibility x vs. y you will find instance where the fluids are not compatible. The same question equally applies to other multi-spec transmission fluids.
Yes, 14 Venza HPL Green Toyota dealer flush
And
Yes, 21 RX350 HPL Green CC Toyota dealer drain and fill.
Prius eCVT is a single planetary set, differential, no clutches, no valves, no gear changing, and water cooled. If it were mine, I'd go ATF Green CC and forget about it for at least 100k mi. It's not very demanding on the lubricant.
Are you indicating that the ATF in a Prius eCVT is in contact with the hybrid electrics? That has been debated ad nauseum in Prius forums and elsewhere. If you watch here there are less electrical components here than in a traditional automatic transmission. The gearbox holding the lubricant is sealed between the motor generators.
Why the "CC" or cold climate version?
Yes.
In the Tundra.
Transmission shifts well. But then, it shifted well on AMSOIL, too. I don’t think it’s very picky. I think both are excellent fluids.
In the Tundra.
Transmission shifts well. But then, it shifted well on AMSOIL, too. I don’t think it’s very picky. I think both are excellent fluids.
Since we're talking about a vehicle utilizing numerous details to eke our every efficiency possible. There could be an opportunity, however small or large to gain an advantage with the better cold flow properties of the CC. Keeping in mind that it takes a very long time to get the transmission lubricant up to a steady operation temperature in this application.
Is this based on data or just pure conjecture? Thus far I've been able to find the properties of replacement ATF WS from Beck Arnley, Enos and Idemitsu but not genuine Toyota ATF WS. Idemitsu Type TLS-LV actually has lower viscosity than either version of HPL ATF Green. It has an identical -54C por point to that of standard HPL Green but the cold climate version bests that with a pour point of -66C.
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Which part? When I had a Prius it was often that I logged vitals with a OBD2 dongle and the Torque app. It took at least 30min or more of highway driving for the transaxle temperatures to plateau. Wish I still had some screenshots to share.
Otherwise, I just considered the available data - viscosities and pour points of the ATF in question HPL Green vs HPL Green CC. Great idea to review other alternatives. Are you on the track you need to make a decision?
I believe that you were suggesting that there might be something to gain before the fluid reaches full temperature. In that case a fluid with a lower viscosity might have the edge. This vehicle operates primarily in the short trip regime where the ATF isn't going to reach that temperature plateau that you observed.
Where I live the temperature seldom dip below 0F or -18C. Even in a winter getaway to Vermont the car is unlikely to experience -25C. The -54C pour point of HPL ATF Green or Idemitsu Type TLS-LV should be more than adequate. The lower viscosity of the Idemitsu fluid may be beneficial in my use case based upon your argument. That being said I wish I could find the properties of genuine Toyota WS.
Doesn't Hpl Green have the latest Infineum additive package? Vs Toyota WS that alone would probably make it shift butter smooth.
I'm thinking of putting 12 quarts into my GX
I'm thinking of putting 12 quarts into my GX
My situation is a 2017 Prius V that doesn't shift.
Wouldn't that be indictive of a trans issue that fluid won't fix?
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I think you know the answer
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Toyotas are not known to have weak transmission. Many of them run hundreds of thousands of miles with no fluid changes. I’d personally stick to OEM or maybe maxlife and change it out regularly and it will likely be more than enough.
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