Anyone successfully use a bead breaker

[Vaca]

Has anyone here had any success with a bead breaker to remove automotive tires?

I'm thinking of buying the $119 Bead Buster XB-450 or maybe something similar. Looking to remove 50 or 60 series tires mounted on steel wheels or factory alloys, like for instance a 195/65-15 VW Golf factory alloy, or maybe a 225/50-17 BMW factory alloy, or a 205/55-16 VW steel wheel, etc.

I've successfully removed a few in the past using tie straps and a hydraulic jack, but am looking for something easier. I really just need a tool to break the bead. Any thoughts?

Thanks.

 

[Kawiguy454]

for that you cant beat the HF tire changer. put some anchors in your floor or mount it to a solid frame. If your a DIY guy you can make one mounted on a garage wall with some 2x4's. (kind of same idea as the HF metal one works)

 

[EdwardC]

I have the HF changer, used it once and it worked ok (a little flimsy, had to hold it just right). The last couple times I've needed to break a bead, I didn't have the HF unit close by, so I did the 2x4 method, That worked great. I've done 205/55-16 tires and a 215/60-16 and several motorcycle tires that way. I'd probably skip buying anything dedicated and just use some wood.

 

[Vaca]

What do you do with the 2x4?

BTW, I used to have the big HF contraption. It worked pretty well, but I got rid of it several years back and am looking for something more compact.

 

[Fitter30]

HF manual tire changer changed a few 75 series tires but can't seem to mount 60 or 70 series tires. Have it bolted to my garage floor but don't think i have enough butt.

 

[Traction]

Some tire beads are extremely difficult to break even with a rim-clamp tire changer. BMW for one use a big safety bead, with what I think is called the AH-2 profile, commonly known as double/[censored] humps. Even a 60 series tire on like a 2010 Camry with steel wheels. It takes like 10 pushes or more with the bead breaker trying to get the rear bead seat to move, and have to use a lot of lube to free it up, because the rim barrel is too straight. I hate those. And some tires the soft sidewall will just fold over trying to break the bead. A manual bead breaker would be torture to me. Without some of the right equipment, it is much cheaper, and much easier to pay someone that does, and do it correctly.

 

[krismoriah72]

Originally Posted by Vaca
Has anyone here had any success with a bead breaker to remove automotive tires?

I'm thinking of buying the $119 Bead Buster XB-450 or maybe something similar. Looking to remove 50 or 60 series tires mounted on steel wheels or factory alloys, like for instance a 195/65-15 VW Golf factory alloy, or maybe a 225/50-17 BMW factory alloy, or a 205/55-16 VW steel wheel, etc.

I've successfully removed a few in the past using tie straps and a hydraulic jack, but am looking for something easier. I really just need a tool to break the bead. Any thoughts?

Thanks.



yea i had these tire irons in my shop and dismounted many tires.. takes a few to get the hang of it.. soap and finesse. Two of these, i usually wrapped duct tape near the end to keep from marring rims.. done many tires atv/trailer/truck and car tires..


https://www.harborfreight.com/24-in-general-purpose-tire-iron-61603.html

 

[supton]

I have the HF changer, and have done 65 series rubber, as used on my later model Camry (or was it 60 series?). Yeah the Toyota rims are a pain to break the bead.

When I use my changer I mount it in my utility trailer--bolt it down to the 3/4" plywood floor. Put a jackstand under the rear of the trailer, then raise the front of the trailer. Sorta stable.

I find the long bar that came with the changer is good for getting the unseated tire up and over the rim, to get the tire off the rim. I find though I use the (sold separately) tire iron for getting the new tire onto the rim.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

I have a jig my father made (32'' wide x 20 inches tall) back in the 60s out of DOM tubing. I use that and a hilift to break down beads.

Slide the tire in, put a pry bar or tire spoon through the center of the wheel to lock it in place, then use the hilift to pop off the bead. Works great!

Tires seem to get stuck on for anything less than using a jack or a pneumatic bead breaker.

 

[EdwardC]

My 2x4 method was something like the attached picture. Had the pivot on the stud of the exposed garage interior and another further out for the wood that pushes on the bead. The longer the lever arm, the better. I remember having to step on the side of the tire furthest from the wall to keep the whole wheel from rotating upwards. Only thing to watch out for is the valve stem (particularly if it has TPMS, don't try to break the bead near the stem).

Image credit: https://www.suzuki-forums.net/index.php?/topic/384-changing-your-own-tires-at-minimal-cost/

One key thing I've noticed is that you need to get the wall pivot point height just right, and the bead breaking vertical part mounted at the right distance from the wall to allow enough vertical motion to push the bead far enough down the rim. And, of course, make sure your valve core is removed.

 

[CapriRacer]

Originally Posted by Traction
…… with what I think is called the AH-2 profile …..


It's the EH-2 - for Enhanced Hump version 2