Our '03 Park Ave (purchased at 50,000 kms) that went to our daughter was totalled at 310,000 kms, 3800 was running fine. Didn't need topping up during 10,000 km OCI's. So that's almost 200,000 miles on 6,000 mile OCI's with M1 5W-30. Original owner did similar OCI's at the GM dealer. Daughter is fine thank God, the old Buick protected her well.
Anyone have a vehicle long term to back their OCI?
- Thread starter Speedy!
- Start date
2011 Mazda 6 sedan - ~7500 mile OCIs on synthetic. Will admit I did go 10k miles a few times. 160k miles total on vehicle. Did the valve cover at 150K - top end was spotless.
Ran Kendall up until about 60k, then switched to Castrol until 140k and now I’m running Valvoline. Switched from 0w20 to 5w30 when I went to Valvoline to make me feel better about high miles. May go back to 0w20 - haven’t decided. Engine burns no oil.
Ran Kendall up until about 60k, then switched to Castrol until 140k and now I’m running Valvoline. Switched from 0w20 to 5w30 when I went to Valvoline to make me feel better about high miles. May go back to 0w20 - haven’t decided. Engine burns no oil.
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I posted the following in the Pennzoil- Drain interval Q&A thread above. Pennzoil is supposed to reply to all the questions on the 13th. I suspect the answer will be very "political" so as not to offend Stellantis.
I bought my 1985 Olds 2 door coupe gas 5 liter olds engine with 47K miles on it on April 29, 1992 and sold it with 16X,XXX miles on it about 2 years ago. And our 2001 Impala with 30K miles on it when it was 3 years old, and gave it to my brother with 117,XXX miles on it about 2 years ago. And I bought my 2016 Honda CR-V with 19,7XX mills on it Feb 2020 and now have 27,4XX on it and plan to keep it for a very long time.
I had a 94 accord which I drove back and forth to Connecticut for 2 years and 8 months. Put over 30k miles per year on it. Didn't know about extended OCI back in 2001-2003. Sold it in 2004 with 415k kms on it and the engine was fine. never removed the valve cover to see the condition, but I'm sure there were no issues. Would run a 3-4k mile OCI which could have been have easily been doubled at the time of I would have known better. My 97 civic that I've owned since new is spotless under the VC and I've used conventional and synthetic over the years without issue. Some OCI were over 1 year in duration and 6k miles in length. Currently I'm leaving the Fram Ultra oil filter on for two full years and 3-4 OCI Over that 2 years.
I drove a Mazda Protege5 for 20 years / 250k miles with a 7500 mile oci or once a year. Always synthetic, mostly Mobil1. Never an engine issue.
I bought my Camry from the original owner with 226,000 miles on it. It was used to commute around 90 miles per day. It had the oil changed every 5000 miles at the local Toyota dealer, but needed the pistons replaced under the recall for the 2.4L.
I’ve put 2000 miles of mixed driving on it and haven’t burned a drop. It gets 26 mpg on my 11 mile one way commute and got just shy of 34 mpg on a 120 mile trip this past weekend.
I’ll be sticking to 5000 mile OCI’s
I’ve put 2000 miles of mixed driving on it and haven’t burned a drop. It gets 26 mpg on my 11 mile one way commute and got just shy of 34 mpg on a 120 mile trip this past weekend.
I’ll be sticking to 5000 mile OCI’s
CleanSump
Site Donor 2022
346k miles over 21 years on my 300D 2.5 Turbo with oil changes every 10K. Amsoil Heavy Duty Diesel and Marine 30/10W-30.
I reached 205,000 miles over the course of 11 years starting from 0 using an average of 7,000 miles. Once in a while, 10,000 miles max. This is on a 2008 Chevy 6.0 LS V-8 with no AFM, but does have VVT.
The motor oil was always synthetic, 5w30, mostly with Pennzoil Platinum but also several other brand names that were on sale.
It currently has 220,000 miles and I now use 5w40 or 0w30 Euro and switched to a 5,000 mile OCI.
The motor oil was always synthetic, 5w30, mostly with Pennzoil Platinum but also several other brand names that were on sale.
It currently has 220,000 miles and I now use 5w40 or 0w30 Euro and switched to a 5,000 mile OCI.
These oci, without a set plan of evaluating are in the real world meaningless . But they make great thread conversations and endless debates.
If I am wrong show me the empirical data along with out of the lab testing with same exact vehicle one follow an oci and the other doing what the majority of the worlds population does regarding oil and filter scheduled changes not following an oci let’s see the result.
Don’t take this wrong I religiously change my oil and filter on most everything I own at or close to 3k miles. If for anything else the peace of mind.
Oh and on the bikes if I go for a hard riding weekend in the mountains, regardless if only a few hundred miles the oil gets changed. Peace of mind is a very wonderful thing
If I am wrong show me the empirical data along with out of the lab testing with same exact vehicle one follow an oci and the other doing what the majority of the worlds population does regarding oil and filter scheduled changes not following an oci let’s see the result.
Don’t take this wrong I religiously change my oil and filter on most everything I own at or close to 3k miles. If for anything else the peace of mind.
Oh and on the bikes if I go for a hard riding weekend in the mountains, regardless if only a few hundred miles the oil gets changed. Peace of mind is a very wonderful thing
In case applicable:
The '81 Mazda in my signature ran to over 600k miles, with no hint of any problem for which the oil quality or change intervals could be blamed. Always current API S_ rated, usually 10W-40 conventional, occasionally 10W-30. Oil usually changed about every 6k, with filter changed every 3rd time. My brother did about the same to ~330k in a '85 Jetta,
The '81 Mazda in my signature ran to over 600k miles, with no hint of any problem for which the oil quality or change intervals could be blamed. Always current API S_ rated, usually 10W-40 conventional, occasionally 10W-30. Oil usually changed about every 6k, with filter changed every 3rd time. My brother did about the same to ~330k in a '85 Jetta,
This is the best answer in this thread, regarding OP's question.
They do the Euro, which is better than the SRT version anyways.
I do 10K OCIs. Have for the last 43 years with M1 oils. My 2007 Fusion now has 278K using M1 20wt oil. I had a 91 Ford Ranger with 354K when sold using M1 10-30. Still ran great when sold. I have had other Fords with high miles using M1 oils at 10K OCIs. Never a problem.
You sir are the winner, LOL.
I'm unable to find Euro locally so I've been running the M1 Euro 0W-40 in the Hellcat.
3K mile OCI is kinda like saying the world is flat isn't it LOL?
26 years and 270K in a Corolla, any oil I can find in 10w30 or 5w30, mostly synthetic for 7500 OCI, a puff of startup blue smoke before I crushed it for cash.
24 years and 270K in an Integra, any synthetic I can find in 10w30 or 5w30 for mostly 7500 OCI (a couple 10k), some leaks, some oil burn, engine rebuild twice due to radiator (CSF all metal) and radiator cap (Stant) problems.
13 years and 110K in an IS250, any synthetic I can find in 5w20 to 10w30 for 7500 OCI, burn 1 quart since new, at 8 years and 70K piston replacement due to carbon deposit by Lexus as TSB.
10 years and 110K in a Taurus, any oil I can find in 5w30, mostly synthetic for 7500 OCI, nothing wrong with the engine when dad trade it in for a Mazda5.
I don't stay loyal to any oil brand because their formula changes all the time. Same grade API oils have more similarity within their rating but different brands than say Pennzoil / Valvoline / Mobil within their brand but going from SL to SM, SN, SN Plus, Dexos 1, Dexos 1 Gen 2, etc. So I have no way of using the same oil over 20 years anyways.
24 years and 270K in an Integra, any synthetic I can find in 10w30 or 5w30 for mostly 7500 OCI (a couple 10k), some leaks, some oil burn, engine rebuild twice due to radiator (CSF all metal) and radiator cap (Stant) problems.
13 years and 110K in an IS250, any synthetic I can find in 5w20 to 10w30 for 7500 OCI, burn 1 quart since new, at 8 years and 70K piston replacement due to carbon deposit by Lexus as TSB.
10 years and 110K in a Taurus, any oil I can find in 5w30, mostly synthetic for 7500 OCI, nothing wrong with the engine when dad trade it in for a Mazda5.
I don't stay loyal to any oil brand because their formula changes all the time. Same grade API oils have more similarity within their rating but different brands than say Pennzoil / Valvoline / Mobil within their brand but going from SL to SM, SN, SN Plus, Dexos 1, Dexos 1 Gen 2, etc. So I have no way of using the same oil over 20 years anyways.
I've had my Tacoma for 12 years and driven it 131k miles (Odometer=171k) and it still runs perfect. My oil choice and OCI changed at 120k so it's not a consistent maintenance history and not really valid for the topic. Anyway I'm sure lots of people have owned their vehicle(s) 10+ years and have taken good care of them and still running strong. Hopefully you will hear from some who have stayed with the same oil spec and same service intervals the whole time.
2007 Mazdaspeed 3: Bought new in July 2007 and sold in January 2016 at 158,000 miles. From 5,000 miles to 69,000 miles I ran a 5,000 mile oil change interval using Mobil1 5W-30. At 69,000 miles I extended the OCI to @7,500 miles(still using M1 5W-30). At 115,000 miles I switched to M1 5W-30 Extended Performance. Used oil analysis consistently showed the motor to be in excellent condition- and that a 7,500 mile OCI was conservative. Here's the final UOA:
