Any Tip For Removing Tranny Drain Bolt?

[Rhymingmechanic]

If you search the internet, you'll find this is common with the 4L60E. I struggled with mine, laying on my back for nearly an hour before 'old schooling' it and pulled the pan. I was then able to put the pan on my work bench and hammered on an impact socket. That got it off. The problem is that the head of the plug is so short you just can't get a good grip on it. I replaced the factory plug with a GM 24234212, which has a full sized head. It does stick out 1/8 inch below the pan and I'm OK with that.

Thanks for the tip. I put that plug in my last Amazon order for $5.60. I think it is specified for the 6-speed, where the 4-speed has the tiny hex.

For those suggesting a torch to remove this plug, make sure you have a new plug on hand if you do that. It has a captured rubber gasket that would probably be ruined by the heat.

Also, it's been awhile since I had my pan off, but I don't think the GM pan has a big nut inside like the Ford in post #17. I remember it being more of a threaded insert flush with the pan.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

I just wanted to update my last post about the GM 24234212 drain plug.

I changed fluid in my 2001 4L60E last weekend, and it's a good thing I had the new plug on hand--Thanks again, chainblu.

I never can remember if the factory plug takes a 14mm or 15mm socket, so I always get underneath with both. The 14 wouldn't fit, but looking back, I think that's because the head was damaged from the last change. I used the 15mm, and the plug loosened with a screech. The noise was the too-big socket slipping on the plug. Plug and socket are now stuck together.

The new plug works perfectly. The longer bolt head takes a 14mm and tightens without worries about the socket slipping off and causing damage to drain plug or knuckles.