Any sportbike guys around here ?

Status
Not open for further replies.
By "no need to adjust" I meant, was not tighter or looser than what it was supposed to be. In all honesty the valves never really moved at all for all intents and purposes the entire time I had the bike. They started out right at factory spec, and stayed there the entire time. They never tightened up, and this was over the 6000, 12,000, 18,000 and then 30,000 mile checks. At 18,000 since they hadn't tightened up any I made the choice to skip to 30k at which point there had still been no change. I don't have the factory spec in front of me but I know the proper feeler gauge always slipped where it was supposed to easily.
 
1998 Kawasaki zx 9r with 22,000 miles, I've used MX4T and recently switched to RedCap 15w-50 due the price. Everything is working fine. Prior to this bike I had a 1994 CBR 600 with 31,000 miles and used Golden Spectro 10w-40 or 20w-50 depending on the season.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ctechbob:
By "no need to adjust" I meant, was not tighter or looser than what it was supposed to be. In all honesty the valves never really moved at all for all intents and purposes the entire time I had the bike. They started out right at factory spec, and stayed there the entire time. They never tightened up, and this was over the 6000, 12,000, 18,000 and then 30,000 mile checks. At 18,000 since they hadn't tightened up any I made the choice to skip to 30k at which point there had still been no change. I don't have the factory spec in front of me but I know the proper feeler gauge always slipped where it was supposed to easily.

That's pretty amazing, I have a 2004 ZX6R 636. I've talked to a few people with over 30,000 miles on theirs. They said that when they did a check at 20,000 everything looked perfect, then an adjustment was made at 25,000 and it was only off by a small amount. These motors are pretty bulletproof !!
 
I own a Honda VFR Inteceptor and it is still currently running the Honda HP4 Semi-Syn 10W40, which I replaced at the 600 mile mark per factory recommendations. At 2000 miles I am going to switch to Amsoil MC 10W40. A buddy of mine has the identical bike and reports his shifting is excellent with the Amsoil. I just bought the last 8 quarts of M1 MX4T 10W40 (to be reformulated soon) on clearance at my local Kragen's for $1.39 per quart. I also have 8 quarts of the Amsoil MC 10W40, so I had a dilemma of which oil to use. Reading these posts, it seems most are very satisfied with the Amsoil. I'm going with the Amsoil for now, although I will eventually use the M1. I also have both the Factory Honda Oil Filter and several of the Amsoil MC Filters on hand. Any preference to which filter is better?
confused.gif
 
****, here we are on BITOG talking about all the oils we could put in a bike and not one UOA is referenced..?

dunno.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Ninjaracer636:
But they don't seem to be the most presision built things I've ever seen. I think they're only pushing like 5500 rpm or so.

If this post seems nasty I apologize in advance:
Just what does precision building have to do with "pushing 5500 rpm or so"?

That is what the engine is designed to do. Its is not a race engine. A Harley Davidson engine is built to be exactly what it is, an air cooled, OHV, pushrod operated, V twin engine that develops moderate horsepower, reliably, while meeting current government regulations regarding noise and emission standards, while remaining true to traditional design parameters.

Much the same way Ducati continues to use the Desmodromic valve train, a totally antiquated system, it's a trademark design feature that defines Ducati. Or Triumph continues to buid inline triples. Harley-Davidson remains true to their trademark engine design, which establishes their position in the marketplace.

It seems, my friend, you have fallen into the "as everybody knows syndrome". Just because the V Twin engine is a design that has a tradition and history, has nothing, nothing whatsoever to do with precision building, quality and engineering. Do you really think nothing has changed, for H-D, since the teens?

I ride a Suzuki and a Kawasaki both are in line 4 cylinder bikes. I don't own a Harley, don't really want one, but it drives me crazy to hear people slam the H-D product because they think their in-line 4 or triple or radial 5, or boxer twin is a better engineered or built machine. It is simply different, a different bike for a different mission.

twak.gif


[ July 23, 2005, 04:59 PM: Message edited by: jimcor ]
 
I use regular, cheap, car oils in my bike, usually Valv 10W-40. I believe that the motorcycle-specific oils are extremely good for the people that sell them. ;-) Not to say that there might not be some unmeasureable wear/performance benefit to them, just not anywhere near justifying the price. The motorcycle mfg'ers recommend a weight of oil and an API designation (e.g. SJ) and nothing more. If that oil spec was not good enough, there is no way they'd spec it. (I've been on the engine mfg side of this discussion.) Of course, I only have 60k miles on my '86 Concours and just rode it to Laguna at 85 mph continuous, Mojave desert and all. Car 10W40 changed every 3-4k miles.

Use the same in my roadrace '89 Yamaha FZR400 but do change it every couple of race weekends due to continuous 14krpm use in the race environment.

My $.02 worth.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ctechbob:
In my 35,000 mile ZX-6 I used mostly M1 15W50. Pulled the valve covers off around 30k to do a valve adjustment and not only was there no need to adjust, we mic'ed the cams and pretty much found there to be no wear on them either. And I had been using Bosch 3323 filters on the bike since about 6000 miles. (Killed any fear I had of using a "car" filter on a bike)

On to my 2003 ZZR-1200. Rotella 15W40 @500, and 1500 miles. At 3000 miles switched over to RotellaT 5W40. Bike runs fine, no clutch slippage at all. And the bike has been dynoed at ~140hp. (Really don't have much choice on a filter for this one, its a cartridge design, have been using an STP SMO-12)


are you on zx6e.com?
 
VFR 800 rider using Mobil 1 15W-50 at 35,000 miles and still strong. I used it in my ST1100 with 90,000 miles also and my Yamaha Virago with 85,000 miles. All was well in them also.
 
VFR800 rider here using Mobil 1 15W-50 with 35,000 miles and going strong. I also used it in my ST1100 at 90,000 miles and my Yamaha Virago at 85,000 miles.
 
i've used valvoline CAR oil from 38,xxx miles to 77,xxx miles,after that, i have been using rotella 15w40 with no problems at all. my bike is an 89 gsxr 750
 
Daves66Nova;

How is that air cooled GSXR holding up after all those miles? What a great bike. I rarely see a gsxr with over 15k.

thanks
 
02 ninja zx9r just over 21K on the clock. Have run:
M1 mx4t 10W40
Rotella 5W40 and 15W40
Brad Penn 20W50

current fill is valvoline synpower 20W50 bought couple years ago bogo.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top