Any Reason For 5w-20 besides CAFE?

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Patman, Have we seen any SAE papers on 20Wt oils extolling their use across the board? Have we seen any proveing that they are better then a 10W30, 5W40 etc.....???? HOw many Honda's and FOrds with 300,000 mile son them useing only 5W20?

What proof have we seen that they are for anything other then CAFE? WHy is the rest of the world not embraceing these oils? Why don't you run it in you F-body?
 
John, when are you going to settle on a mileage figure as being acceptable? Its been amusing to watch the inflation of what mileage an engine needs to obtain to qualify as lasting for many miles.
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Here we are long after the intial questions were raised, and we have been deluged with 0w and 5w20 reports. I think even the most serious doubters out there must acknowledge that on a UOA basis, these oils more than hold their own.

IMHO, while CAFE was a driving force in making the recommendation to use 5w20, I donlt think the decision was made lightly, as shown by manufacturers requiring more stringent standards.

I'm not saying 5w20 is the answer for every situation. We know its not. Yet, some still argue that it isn't the answer for ANY engine. At this point, I'm convinced that thinking isn't correct either.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Patman, Have we seen any SAE papers on 20Wt oils extolling their use across the board? Have we seen any proveing that they are better then a 10W30, 5W40 etc.....???? HOw many Honda's and FOrds with 300,000 mile son them useing only 5W20?

What proof have we seen that they are for anything other then CAFE? WHy is the rest of the world not embraceing these oils? Why don't you run it in you F-body?


I think I've explained this many times before. I am not saying these oils are for every engine, unlike a lot of the thick oil guys who keep trying to push it down our throats here that thick oils work for every engine and are the only way to get long life.

All I'm saying is that if you've got a brand new engine which asks for 5w20, then it seems to me that it's safe to run it, based on the very good UOAs we've seen on here, many of them with 0 lead wear! That to me says a lot.

My 350LT1 is not a candidate for a thin oil, it's an older design built to looser clearances, and I've noticed my lead wear is higher with a 10 cst oil compared to a 12 cst oil. So there would be no reason for me to go thinner here.

So I'm basically saying that every engine has a different viscosity need, and it appears so far that the new engines that call for 5w20 are easily able to handle it. Sure, 5w20 is being pushed hard due to CAFE, I won't deny that, but it doesn't mean good won't come out of it. Just look at the Mazda 6 guys on here who autocross and post awesome results with the 20wt oils! How much more proof do you guys need? There are now probably 50-100 5w20/0w20 UOAs on here and not a single one of them (to my recollection) looked like the engine was wearing out unusually.

FWIW, I would consider giving 0w20 Mobil 1 a try in my wife's 2000 Civic, even though hers is the last year that Honda called for 5w30. But at the same time, if GC 0w30 works well for her I won't switch from it until that oil disappears off the shelves.
 
On the plus side, the 5w20 is not going to have a lot of viscosity index improvers, but I would not run it with cheapo oil filters. The thinner oil film means that smaller contaminant particles will be able to score the bearings instead of being safely carried within the oil film as would be the case in a thicker oil. Also I would watch oil consumption and find a 5w20 with a good flash point and/or NOAAK number. I would be more inclined to run a 10w30 on these new engines, maybe synthetic to play it safe on the flow issues.

Also, in extreme situations, such as engine lugging (e.g, bucking due to a problem with the fuel delivery) you will break the oil layer on thinner oils more easily and come into metal to metal contact:

"The most important property of a lubricant for plain bearings [like an IC engine's main bearings] is its viscosity. If the viscosity is too low the bearing will have inadequate load-carrying capacity..." from "Lubrication, A Tribology Handbook," published by the Society of Automotive Engineers, Inc.

So, while the 5w20 shows good UOAs, it still leaves you a much smaller margin of safety. Just look at the HT/HS numbers.

[ March 13, 2004, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
 
Patman I know why you do not use it in your F-Body!! I ask that as a rhetorical question. That is my point. Why recomend and support a product that you know will not work across the baord? Why support something that you will not use in your most cherished vechiles? If you will not use it in you car why should anyone else use it in theirs? If I am drive a Carolla it is just as important to me as your Camaro is to you!

Why is it that SAE papers are not comeing forward proveing or disproveing this oil.

As far as millage is concerned 200,000-300,000 are both very reasonable number. My point with the high millage is that a vechile with a few oil changes on 5W20 does not really prove or disprove anything yet! We have over 50 years of 30,40 and 50Wt viscositys. We have only a few years of 5W20 on recent oil formulations! Before we throw the baby our with the bath water maybe some more time is needed to see the true long term effects of this new thinner trend!

5W20 at this point is a C.A.F.E. fad! ITR has not been proven by the test of time! We still have more un answered questions as well!!!!

Why has Europe with their $3-$4 a liter oil prices not embraced 5W20? Why has Asia not embraced 5W20? Why has the trucking industry not embraced 5W20 oils? All of these other partys have a lot more to gain in terms of fuel saveings.

I do not know if 5W20 are going to protect at least as well as a solid 10W30 in the long run! I do know though that I will not recommend something I will not use! I will not recomend something that has not with stood the test of time!

On my side we have just about every single country that does not have C.A.F.E. like orginization! On my side we have history. The thin oils only have C.A.F.E. and two auto marker on their side. THe 5W20 are also restricted in usage and only recommended by these two OEM's for use in North America! Ford has even said out right that C.A.F.E. was the only reason for makeing the switch!
 
For purposes of discussion...

http://www.mazda6tech.com/cms/index.php?id=66

Below each UOA link, you'll find the Bob's link for the UOA posted here. Nice, easy, and organized.

Here's the collaborated list of Mazda 6s (3.0 V6, 6500 rpm redline), and Mazda 6i (2.3 I4).

We've got 0w-20 mobil1, 0w-30 GC, 5w-30 mobil1, 5w-20 motorcraft, factory fill, and 5w-2- Castrol GTX.

We've also got members attending VIR and Summit Point raceways, and will be posting track UOA's with the 0w-20.

Best UOA's thus far have been with 0w-20 mobil1, and a single 0w-30 GC...

[ March 13, 2004, 12:00 PM: Message edited by: crossbow ]
 
http://www.mazda6tech.com/cms/index.php?id=66

The Mazda 6 UOA's are in a variety of conditions.

1) Cold Climates
2) Hot Climates
3) Highway Miles
4) 90-95% Stop and Go and Short Trips
5) Autocrossing
6) Track Racing

Just click on the bob's analysis under each UOA to see which vehicle was under which conditions.

5w-30 Mobil1 Super Syn (Stop and Go)
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000922

0w-20 Mobil1 Super Syn (Stop and Go)
(SAME ENGINE/DRIVER/CAR)
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001245

Some wear #'s dropped over 50% with the same driving style/habit. Heck, copper dropped 65%!!!!!!

[ March 13, 2004, 02:44 PM: Message edited by: crossbow ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Patman I know why you do not use it in your F-Body!! I ask that as a rhetorical question. That is my point. Why recomend and support a product that you know will not work across the baord?

You're not listening to what I'm saying though. There is no viscosity which works across the board! I'm recommending that people see what works for them, and if 5w20/0w20 is specified for their new engine, and it is giving them low wear in their UOAs, then it's not necessary for them to go thicker. If as their engine ages, they see the wear going up they can then try something slightly thicker to see if it reduces wear. Simple as pie.
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quote:


Why support something that you will not use in your most cherished vechiles? If you will not use it in you car why should anyone else use it in theirs?

Once again, you're not listening to me. I said I would consider trying it in my wife's car, but that test will only happen when GC disappears, since if this oil works, I promised myself not to keep changing around. And like I've also said a few hundred times now, I'm not using it in my Firebird because number one it's not specified for it and number two I already know what viscosity my engine likes. I'm only telling people to use it if their owner's manual calls for it, I'm not telling someone with a big block Chevy to run it.

quote:

Why is it that SAE papers are not comeing forward proveing or disproveing this oil.

Who says there aren't any tests like this in the works? I bet there are.

quote:


As far as millage is concerned 200,000-300,000 are both very reasonable number. My point with the high millage is that a vechile with a few oil changes on 5W20 does not really prove or disprove anything yet! We have over 50 years of 30,40 and 50Wt viscositys. We have only a few years of 5W20 on recent oil formulations! Before we throw the baby our with the bath water maybe some more time is needed to see the true long term effects of this new thinner trend!

That's where UOAs come in though. I'm confident enough to tell people that UOA is a good indicator of how long your engine can last, and if you see low wear numbers you're safe to assume you're not hurting your engine.

quote:


Why has Europe with their $3-$4 a liter oil prices not embraced 5W20? Why has Asia not embraced 5W20? Why has the trucking industry not embraced 5W20 oils?

That's a totally different topic though. Those engines are not built to anywhere near the same design as a Honda Civic.

Europe might never embrace 5w20 because people there might be too set in their ways and already don't like using 10w30! But yet people in the US have used it for decades with good results.

Let's look at this another way. People run 5w30 oils that have a viscosity of 10.0cst at 100c, and often thin out to 9.0 cst after 3k. But yet those engines last long. Do you really think a 5w20 with a starting viscosity of 8.8, and ends up at 8.8, is going to be much different in terms of engine wear?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Those engines are not built to anywhere near the same design as a Honda Civic.


Could you please explain this. Are you inferring that the same motor in Europe has different rod and main bearing clearances, and ring tension etc.
 
quote:

There is no viscosity which works across the board! I'm recommending that people see what works for them, and if 5w20/0w20 is specified for their new engine, and it is giving them low wear in their UOAs, then it's not necessary for them to go thicker. If as their engine ages, they see the wear going up they can then try something slightly thicker to see if it reduces wear. Simple as pie.

JB, Dr.T , read what Patman is saying. I think it makes 100% sense. You can't just say THICKER IS BETTER FOR ALL CARS AND CAFE IS BAD. We have moderate drain intervals here and no autobahn so if a 20wt shows great results, like we have seen, why use a heavier oil? If there is no consumption using a 20wt oil, again why switch? To me this is the most over talked about issue on this board as you have to match the car/engine/driving conditions with the oil. It's that simple. If you can get the same results with a 30wt oil compared to a 50wt oil and have zero consumption with both, it makes NO SENSE to use the 50wt oil. It's just a ridiculous idea to me to think in all cases thicker is better and if your objective about the issue then you'll realize that these new 20wt oils are doing EXCELLENT in the vehicles that CALL FOR THEM.

[ March 13, 2004, 04:23 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
"Any Reason For 5w-20 besides CAFE?"

QUAKER STATE OIL: "Myth #8: SAE 5W-20 is too thin to protect the engine."

"FACT: There are two main reasons why vehicle manufacturers recommend thinner or lighter viscosity grades of motor oil...gain in CAFE fuel economy...and at cold temperatures and at start up, lower viscosity oil will reduce internal engine friction (and wear)."

"The viscosity grade(s) recommended by the vehicle manufacturer depend somewhat on engine design. Engine manufacturers have spent considerable time and expense experimenting with different viscosity grades and have indicated in the owner's manual the grades they feel will best protect the engine at specific temperatures. While one manufacturer's engine may require an SAE 10W-30, another manufacturer's engine may require an SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade. This is likely due to different tolerances within the engine or other engine design factors."
http://www.quakerstate.com/pages/carcare/whattoknow.asp

[ March 13, 2004, 05:31 PM: Message edited by: TC ]
 
Straight weight oil was "proven" over many years. Why the heck you using multi grade?
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I use the lightest weight oil recommended. I will save gas and get better performance than the thick oil boys..... All the while racking up mile after mile of trouble free, non oil burning driving with my vehicles.

[ March 13, 2004, 06:03 PM: Message edited by: tenderloin ]
 
I used to be one of the biggest anti-20 weight people you could find. But after lots of research, soul searching
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, and trying to be of an open mind, I've given it a try. So far, I've no complaints, and it definately seems like there are a lot of VERY good 20 weights to choose from.
I guess the question I would pose now to those of the "thicker is better" camp is somewhat along the lines of what Patman stated: If a 5w-30 oil shears down to a 5w-20 oil after use, what's the big deal of starting off with a shear stable 5w-20?
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I'm not comparing a 5w-20 to a 10w-40, just like I wouldn't compare a 5w-30 to a 20w-50. Therein lies (no pun intended) the main problem I've had with FoMoCo's blanket switch in 2001. I don't believe every engine they manufacture should be using 5w-20. Maybe if they would have phased in the 5w-20 use on a few applications one year, a few more the next, it would have been a lot easier to convince me. But to say that all of a sudden all of their cars should be using 5w-20 definately makes it seem like it was motivated by CAFE. And to that, I say
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I am not trying to say that thicker is better just because it is thicker!!!

Change is only worth while if it solves a problem. Their is absolutely no problem created in an engine by the use of 5W30 or 10W30 that a 5W20 solves. The only purpose for 5W20 is to increase corperate fuel averages for CAFE credits!!! The modular V8's buitl by ford were not modifed or redesigned in any way for use with 5W20 as compared to their 5W30 recomendations.

Ford motor company has gone on public record stateing that 5W20 was for CAFE! What more does it take! Tht is about as blunt and point blank as you can get! We all know about the 2.6 HTHS limit for valve train, chain and sprocket wear. This study has already been done by SAE.

UOA is a valuble tool but only in the hands of a real pro! It will not tell you if the iron in your reading is comming from sprocket gears, camshafts, chains or rings. Is that cromium from valves of from the chains etc....

What I am thinking is that we might be seeing wear displacement. You might very well be seeing numbers very simalr to pre 5W20 days. Lets say though that the iron is comeing from gear or chains instead of rings? WHat if the chromium is from the chains or cam buckets? How does that change the significance of the wear metal levels. How does this change the wear patern of the engine etc????????

[ March 13, 2004, 10:16 PM: Message edited by: JohnBrowning ]
 
I don't believe UOA is the complete answer.
I was under the impression that most wear happened at start up. So if a user, like me, has a UOA on a vehicle that gets started twice a day for a round freeway trip of 50 kilometers, the readings will be totally different to the same vehicle and oil type being started twice a day and driven 5 kilometers.

UOA can not take this into consideration and the people that seem to post their UOA's on a regular basis, put on allot of miles.

3k oil change intervals, and *w-40 or 50 oil have kept all of my vehicles running to 250,000 miles with no noticeable ring /bore wear.

The only exception was a 1984 Volvo that my wife killed in under 80,000 miles. Manual choke washed all the oil off the cylinders and short trips ONLY never allowed that engine to warm up.
The nice thick oil thinned by gas did not hang around on the cylinder walls and the bore wear was horrendous.

No 20 weight oil will ever go in my vehicle until the engines are designed specifically for that weight of oil.

Right now this is all about CAFE, politics, marketing etc.
 
quote:

Originally posted by ZiTS:
I guess the question I would pose now to those of the "thicker is better" camp is somewhat along the lines of what Patman stated: If a 5w-30 oil shears down to a 5w-20 oil after use, what's the big deal of starting off with a shear stable 5w-20?

So if the 5w30 just won't hold grade I should give up and just use the lower grade? No, rather I should fix the sheer down problem by using a 10w30, which should hold its grade nicely.
 
UOA comparisons on the same vehicles will show what works better and what doesn't though. There are people here who have done these comparisons and heavy oil doesn't consistantly show better numbers than thin oil. The opposite its also true...
 
quote:

Originally posted by Nosmo King:

quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Those engines are not built to anywhere near the same design as a Honda Civic.


Could you please explain this. Are you inferring that the same motor in Europe has different rod and main bearing clearances, and ring tension etc.


No, I was referring to his comment about the trucking industry actually. He asked why trucks don't use 5w20 and so I mentioned that their design (and intended use) is not the same as a new Honda that recommends 5w20.
 
TallPaul, I partially agree with what you're saying. However, is it any better to go to a thicker oil than it is to go to a thinner oil if the problem is a weak VI oil? What I'm trying to say is: Couldn't using a thicker oil than needed do just as much damage as using a thinner oil than needed? A shear stable thick oil (i.e. 10w-30) may not flow as easily on a cold morning start in a newer engine. If we assume most engine wear occurs at start-up, it would seem to me that using a shear stable light oil (i.e. 5w-20) would be better in this situation. Once the engine is up and running, maybe a 10w-30 would be better. Again, it all depends on the engine and driving conditions. That's why FoMoCo really dropped the ball (IMHO) by saying 'use 5w-20' in everything from a 2.0L 4-cylinder to a supercharged V-8. I can't really speak for Honda, except to say they are already so gosh-darn perfect, and their engine clearances so close, that a -20 weight really is justified.
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To summarize: Was the 0,5w-20 grade utilized to increase CAFE? Primarily, yes! And this was able to be accomplished because the engine manufacturing has significantly improved over time. Is the 0,5w-20 grade of oil proving to be a disaster? So far, absolutely not! In fact, it has, as of yet, been shown to be a very good oil. But like all new things, only time will tell....

There. Now, let's all give a big collective hug to our monitors and sing "We are the World"
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[ March 14, 2004, 09:16 AM: Message edited by: ZiTS ]
 
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