Any real harm in running SAE 30 during summer?

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Originally Posted By: jpr
So to summarize, you actually have no data supporting "better cooling ability" of an SAE 30 vs a comparable multigrade.

not readily accessible. if i had the #'s this argument would be over. i'll find it.

its not sae30 specific. any oil that does not have the VI's in it will cool better.
 
*Ding*

It's funny how people exclude or settle on an oil because of one single characteristic, even if it's out-dated or just dead wrong.
 
I don't see why you would not want a synthetic straight 30 if it behaved like a 10-30. Assuming a 10-30 fits the bill, why would you not use a non VII 30/10-30?

I got stuck with 7 people in my TL yesterday with luggage and 150lbs of stereo equipment climbing the grapevine. 1/2-3/4 throttle 3,500rpm for 15 minutes straight made me glad I had the ACD. Not saying I would've had an engine failure even on dino 5-20 but it does give peace of mind. The ATD also added to that peace of mind.
 
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Originally Posted By: EMPIRE
Originally Posted By: jpr
So to summarize, you actually have no data supporting "better cooling ability" of an SAE 30 vs a comparable multigrade.

not readily accessible. if i had the #'s this argument would be over. i'll find it.

its not sae30 specific. any oil that does not have the VI's in it will cool better.


This makes sense, since an oil without VIIs will have a lower viscosity index and will thin out more when exposed to heat, and lower viscosity leads to improved flow.
 
Originally Posted By: oilyriser


This makes sense, since an oil without VIIs will have a lower viscosity index and will thin out more when exposed to heat, and lower viscosity leads to improved flow.

Not really. Both oils will have a viscosity of 10cSTs at 210 F. And negligible differences higher than that since we are talking about syns in both cases.

As mentioned you can't use the Racing Redline 30 wt. for street use. It doesn't have the additives. Its intended to be replaced after each race.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
*Ding*

It's funny how people exclude or settle on an oil because of one single characteristic, even if it's out-dated or just dead wrong.


Well . . . I will say that sometimes a single performance characteristic, if it is correct, can be very dispositive depending on the application.

Some engines are known for cooking oils to death. Others shear them to shreds. Others are diluters.

I'll occasionally pick a lubricant that is strong in one area if the engine really needs it, and give up some benefits elsewhere if the trade off is right. I usually have to give up some OCI in those situations, but so be it.

Folks usually don't run 5w-20 or other wide vis spread oils in marine engines for some very good reasons. OTOH, I typically don't run a straight 30 or a 15 or 25w-40 in the car I'm driving to the marina. Same temps. For some, somewhat similar engine families. But entirely different apps and load considerations.

Personally, for the OP, I think a straight 30 is acceptable in summer temps down there, but would probably be better were he in Houston. I don't know why he needs the advantages of a straight weight in that engine, but that's his call.
 
Originally Posted By: Al
Originally Posted By: oilyriser


This makes sense, since an oil without VIIs will have a lower viscosity index and will thin out more when exposed to heat, and lower viscosity leads to improved flow.

Not really. Both oils will have a viscosity of 10cSTs at 210 F. And negligible differences higher than that since we are talking about syns in both cases.

As mentioned you can't use the Racing Redline 30 wt. for street use. It doesn't have the additives. Its intended to be replaced after each race.


AMSoil SAE30 ACD (which exhibits 10w30 properties) does not contain VI's, yet is meets many API service specifications for both diesel and gasoline automotive engines.

i'm not sure why you keep referencing Redline. i was only noting that it had odd viscosity specifications. i am guessing when you say "it doesnt have the additives" you are not talking about the VI's. i guess we are also running into the verbiage issue when we talk about VI's or not. perhaps the Redline has no VI's as well as no anti-corrosion additives as you mention (hence, racing only, short term use), etc. i'll bet the AMSoil ACD has lots of additives but no VI's.
 
Buick, I assume your analysis is a bit more sophisticated than average Joe's fear of Pennzoil or 20 weights or VIIs or G-III synth or other "fear of the unknown" traps.

We have seen profoundly dumb practices here based on some casual comment from a mechanic or parts guy...like strait 30 in Michigan winters.
 
Originally Posted By: Brian Barnhart
Originally Posted By: SpitfireS
Commuting to work using the same road over and over again made it clear to me that with thinner oil the engine reaches "operating" temp faster, I say "operating" because I was looking at the water temp gauge.
Same season @ morning temps, same routine, same route, same driver, same car, same engine, different oil.

What oils were in use when you observed this?


i've noticed this. Runnign 10W-30 Valvoline durablend gets my engine to operating 1-2km before the point where running toyota 10W-30 would.

for all intents and purposed they are the same weights give or take 10%, so what gives I wonder.

durablend is semi synthetic, toyota is possibly mineral, possibly semi-syn. the only other variable is that i'm using a pureone filter with the durablend and used a toyota OEM with the toyota oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Buick, I assume your analysis is a bit more sophisticated than average Joe's fear of Pennzoil or 20 weights or VIIs or G-III synth or other "fear of the unknown" traps.

We have seen profoundly dumb practices here based on some casual comment from a mechanic or parts guy...like strait 30 in Michigan winters.


It fit the bill for me. About 4 cold starts per week running between Vegas, Bakersfield, and Phoenix, 4-8 hours at a time on the freeway. It rarely saw freezing temps and saw lots of 100+ degree summers. I can't think of a good reason not to use the ACD in my situation.

I did a 3 month trip to Tahoe and used 0-30 for that trip.

Besides, there were no changes to my engine from 03-04, but it was suddenly spec'd for 5-20 in 04 I suppose to satisfy CAFE. 10-30 was perfectly acceptable before so it shouldn't hurt anything on my 06.

So basically very few cold starts, mild winters, very hot summers, and lots of steady state cruising is what made me pick it.
 
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