Any Quality Blend Door Actuators Out There That Won't Break?

Hey folks,

I've gone through a Mopar one and a Dorman one so far. They just seem to keep breaking. RockAuto shows 10 different brands for my vehicle. Does anyone know of a quality brand that won't break? Why can't they use metal gears instead of cheap plastic? I am hating life because of this.



View attachment 242709

Do they need to be lubricate before installation? If two different sets broke something seems wrong.
 
My Jeep Patriot 2.4L might use the same one. I replaced mine with the Korean made Dorman one and it has been fine for 2+ years. Locally available at Advanced Auto with 20% coupon code. Lifetime warranty. Non critical part. As someone suggested, maybe you have another issue if they keep breaking.

Good luck.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: D60
The manual one of the Focus wants to get stuck, but if I wait until the car warms up, the door moves much easier(I broke the manual knob off once). It seems the seals on the door stick or form to the blend box, but once it gets some heat, the seal is flexible again and moves. Also if I leave it in dash vents and feet, or defrost and feet, it doesn't stick at all, so maybe leave it in a mix of two vents so it won't be stuck from the start.
You might want to put a switch in the circuit so the car doesn't try to cycle the blend door instantly when you start the car, then when the heater core is warmed up you can turn on the actuator when its easier to move the door.
 
I hate replacing these things. I've done 3 of them in the Navigator and it is a pain in the (backside).

Well ok the one behind the radio is pretty easy, but the other one is a charlie foxtrot. And now the one I have in the back for the rear ac is clicking, that would be number 4. I just ignore it and it goes away. Heat doesn't work but oh well. I just turn it higher in the front.
 
  • Wow
Reactions: D60
Are you removing the dash?

I am removing the passenger side air vent, and the duct behind it, so I can reach inside and do everything by feel (with one hand), because I can't look inside at the same time I am reaching in.
 
I hate replacing these things. I've done 3 of them in the Navigator and it is a pain in the (backside).

Well ok the one behind the radio is pretty easy, but the other one is a charlie foxtrot. And now the one I have in the back for the rear ac is clicking, that would be number 4. I just ignore it and it goes away. Heat doesn't work but oh well. I just turn it higher in the front.

Do engineers ever come on here and read stuff like this and think to themselves, "Maybe we shouldn't be using the same failing part for 20 years?"
 
The manual one of the Focus wants to get stuck, but if I wait until the car warms up, the door moves much easier(I broke the manual knob off once). It seems the seals on the door stick or form to the blend box, but once it gets some heat, the seal is flexible again and moves. Also if I leave it in dash vents and feet, or defrost and feet, it doesn't stick at all, so maybe leave it in a mix of two vents so it won't be stuck from the start.
You might want to put a switch in the circuit so the car doesn't try to cycle the blend door instantly when you start the car, then when the heater core is warmed up you can turn on the actuator when its easier to move the door.

Interesting theory about the sticky seals. That could be it. There's a lot of dirt and grime in there too, but impossible to reach to clean or lubricate.
 
I thought I would try the Dorman one because the factory one failed in the first place. I thought there might be better odds with an aftermarket. But I was wrong, clearly.
That's a completely logical thought, I don't blame you for trying that approach and with the lower cost with a lifetime warranty it would make sense. Unfortunately most of their products are garbage but are so readily available sometimes it's your only option/risk to take. They do make some good parts such as the aluminum oil cooler for the 3.6L Pentastar motors. The parts in their "OE FIX" line seem to be decent but anything else and especially electrical- they just don't work.
 
Interesting theory about the sticky seals. That could be it. There's a lot of dirt and grime in there too, but impossible to reach to clean or lubricate.
I think your blend box is also just under the radio beside your right foot when driving. Watch some videos and pop some plastic panels off and your can see the side of it. Mine has all the linkages exposed so lubing those helped quite a bit, but I was thinking of drilling a little hole into the box and spraying some lithium grease or something in, but I didn't need too, but If it jams again I guess I will try that.
 
I think your blend box is also just under the radio beside your right foot when driving. Watch some videos and pop some plastic panels off and your can see the side of it. Mine has all the linkages exposed so lubing those helped quite a bit, but I was thinking of drilling a little hole into the box and spraying some lithium grease or something in, but I didn't need too, but If it jams again I guess I will try that.

The one that keeps breaking for me is actually the recirculation door on the far right passenger side. It is behind the glove box and to the right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: D60
Do engineers ever come on here and read stuff like this and think to themselves, "Maybe we shouldn't be using the same failing part for 20 years?"
Well they could make the parts out of something that won't break... Aluminum? I once thought that's how a nice luxury car would be made, just better everywhere, but that's not really the case unfortunately.
 
Back
Top Bottom