Any idea to stop minor oil consumption?
- Thread starter OM605
- Start date
I'd say 25% seepage, 75% burning. I looked at Valvoline MaxLife which is the only "HM" oil available in europe and the price is a deterrent.
Last edited:
Your climate is too cool for something too heavy. I would suppose you could get away with the 20w50 just fine. I wouldn't go heavier
or 10/40 high mileage? Certainly nothing with a 5.
or 10/40 high mileage? Certainly nothing with a 5.
I wonder why nobody suggested using RL which is pretty known for some cleaning effect (sticky piston rings).
.
No difference in oil consumption between a 5W40, a 10W40 and even a 15W40.
At 85€ per gallon jug ($100)?
Figured it was worth asking... but yes this isn't a big problem. People i've asked who have the same engine told me they burn a bit less but they all have automatic transmissions.
20w50 is the ticket then.
Have a look for Castrol GTX HM it is available there, should be a bit cheaper.
It isn't...
Personally I wouldn't even expect any difference. There are 5W-40 with
lower Noack numbers than most if not any 15W-40 available.
You asked, you got answers.
Spending more on oil is certainly much cheaper than disassembling this engine.
Feel free looking for alternatives like Penrite or Ravenol. You could also simply
try M1 0W-40. Using cheaper oils may led to increased consumption. Is it even
a surprise?
Surely it's worth asking, nothing wrong with it. That said, why should the transmission affect engine oil use?
.
Last edited:
My theory is that there's more vacuum since you always use the natural engine breaking effect unlike an automatic. There's a bit more oil being sucked past the valve stem seals.
Post #24 gave you some other ideas. Around here Red Line gal. is about 50 US bucks. I would cringe at 100 bucks too… So how much is a MB PCV valve? Does it consume more oil in the winter?
I don't know, i will try to find the answer but when i look for a pcv for my engine on the internet, all i have is the breather tube the goes from the valve cover to the intake... Nope, it could actually be the opposite! Maybe the consumption is bit higher during summer. My driving is mostly highway and country roads but no stop and go.
Even the 1L/5000 km isn't a problem 
Try Maxlife and/or the Motor Oil Saver
Try Maxlife and/or the Motor Oil Saver
PCV valve became mandatory in 1967.
I just took a look and my memory was correct, the PCV valve is behind the intake manifold, i would have to pull everything out of the way to access it. Maybe it should try to clean it next time i have other maintenance to do in this area.
This is what I've seen the best results from as far as oil consumption issues are concerned:
www.bgprod.com
BG EPR<sup>®</sup> Engine Performance Restoration<sup>®</sup>
EPR® softens and dissolves hard-to-remove deposits from piston rings and cleans micro passageways to maintain the critical hydraulic function of components, such as valve train actuators and turbochargers, restoring fuel economy and power.
Thanks. I could try to go in that direction. Something i wanted to experiment with was to add a small quantity of a very basic group I oil to achieve the same thing. Group I is supposed to have a swelling effect on seals and gaskets and after looking at a MaxLife 5W30 synthetic VAO on oil-club.ru, it turns up it contains a small percentage a group I base to achieve this, according to the members.
If valve stem seals are the cause, the Liqui Moly stuff would probably work quicker but i would have to add a can every OCI, not cost effective compared to adding 1L of oil.
Sounds like you need some of this, Nulon Street & Track 25W60, according to the oil formulator Joe, it's probably made on Group I Bright Stock, plus it's heavily fortified with 1900 ppm Zinc and 400 ppm Moly. Add a litre or two with your next 15W40 oil change, to put some meat on the bones.
Similar threads
