Oil Consumption has Stopped? Tiburon V6

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Unrelated to this thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tiburon-200-000mi-oil-consumption.353582/

This Tiburon has 171k on it and has been ran low on oil a few times (at one point where the engine shut off). That was all years ago before my ownership, but the engine (2.7L Delta V6) does burn approximately 1qt every 1500mi yet the engine is still healthy driving wise.
Well, here's the peculiar thing...I did an oil change at 169,000mi (car is nearly at 171k) but the dipstick is still at 100%!? Nothing has changed, I use the same oil I've been running for years Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10w40 and I've been driving it the same as well. The only thing that has changed was that the car had been sitting for about 2 months while the rear quarter panel was being replaced after a Kia Soul rear ended and spun me out on the highway going 70mph.

I do use Seafoam in the crankcase before every oil change and have been doing so for many many oil changes so I don't think that's the case. Any ideas?
 
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Unrelated to this thread: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/tiburon-200-000mi-oil-consumption.353582/

This Tiburon has 171k on it and has been ran low on oil a few times (at one point where the engine shut off). That was all years ago before my ownership, but the engine (2.7L Delta V6) does burn approximately 1qt every 1500mi yet the engine is still healthy driving wise.
Well, here's the peculiar thing...I did an oil change at 169,000mi (car is nearly at 171k) but the dipstick is still at 100%!? Nothing has changed, I use the same oil I've been running for years Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 10w40 and I've been driving it the same as well. The only thing that has changed was that the car had been sitting for about 2 months while the rear quarter panel was being replaced after a Kia Soul rear ended and spun me out on the highway going 70mph.

I do use Seafoam in the crankcase before every oil change and have been doing so for many many oil changes so I don't think that's the case. Any ideas?
Change the pcv? Maybe the accident knocked some sense into the car.
 
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Maybe fuel dilution has suddenly gone up and that is "making up" for the oil you're burning. I don't think your leaky rings suddenly healed themselves.

Like the poster above said, I'd look at the PCV.
 
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2.7 Delta isn't a direct injection motor.

Fuel dilution was a problem long before anyone heard of a direct injection engine. DI engines just made the problem worse.

The only other thing I can think of OP is that perhaps you had a stuck ring or two that has become unstuck. Certainly oil isn't going to fix worn rings. And given that you've got a high mileage engine that has been run low on oil more than once, to the point of shutting down on one occasion I'd think the problem with your high oil consumption is due to worn cylinders/rings. But who knows, perhaps you had some carbon buildup that was causing a oil ring (or two) to stick and that carbon has now been removed and the ring is unstuck.

Who knows?
 
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The car sat for two months? And was never started? Maybe when you started it the rings were slightly rusted to the piston wall, and starting it jared a couple of them enough to spring them loose in their lands, temporarily unsticking some rings.

I’d believe that^^ scenario more than I’d believe seafoam, or oil, or any sort of additive.

Truth is, carbon deposits, stuck rings, worn rings, whatever...the car can be driven like that for a long time, and in THAT time the daily revolutions of the engine (and everything that goes with it), temperature changes, different driving scenarios/loads/outside temp/fuels/whatever...are going to change things slightly. Perhaps the mere event of an engine sitting for a prolonged period of time did something too.

But it’s amazing to me the things people will try to unstick piston rings...and how they’ll jump to conclusions of what they did to unstick those rings. Go to forums with cars that are known oil burners: you’ll see people claiming different ways they solved their issues, until it comes back.
 
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RugopsOP

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@doublebase no, I would occasionally start the car and let it run for a couple minutes or take it around the block once or twice in that two months period. Probably accumulated less than 5mi in that 2 month period.

As for seafoam. I never truly used it for the oil consumption that was just an added variable worth mentioning.
The car is now close to 172k (nearly 3k since previous oil change & no oil lost). I'm still going to be checking it periodically anyways since I have trust issues.
 
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It looks like Mobil 1 FS 10w40 is only produced in HM flavor. I suspect the HM additives did their job and now the seals are working better? The story is strange but kinda cool at the same time.
 

RugopsOP

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It looks like Mobil 1 FS 10w40 is only produced in HM flavor. I suspect the HM additives did their job and now the seals are working better? The story is strange but kinda cool at the same time.
Well I used to alter between 5w30, 10w30, and 10w40 depending on season (all high mileage synthetic Mobil1)

But since I do drive this car harder than my other Tiburons I lean more towards 10w40 for added protection.
 
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The shop that did your body work topped off your oil. Unless you are checking the oil regularly, noticing something at the OCI isn't too meaningful.

10w40 is a forgotten grade. Glad some use it. Usually has a better HTHS than the 0w40 or 5w40 that are so often recommended. Give the 10w40 motorcycle oil a run. Its a little thinner than the HM 10w40 and could be used in place of the 30 grades during colder climates too.

You don't need Seafoam flushes so often. I don't see it doing anything when a synthetic is used at a conservative interval with a quality filter.
 

RugopsOP

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@Greasymechtech why would the bodyshop top off my oil? I told them to repair the quarter panel and paint it. It's not a mechanic shop doing a 17-point inspection.
Besides even if you were right. I drove enough before/after the bodyshop to where I would've noticed substantial consumption, but no, it's still where I left it at 169k miles.
 
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Pretty simple.... we don't want your engine to seize or transmission to fail or vehicle to overheat when in the body shop. A good shop makes sure that all your chem are topped off and battery is fully charged.
 

RugopsOP

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@Greasymechtech
And again, a bodyshop won't be touching the mechanical parts of the car unless it was a mechanic + bodyshop, which this was not.

Also, I have a Borla catback on the Tiburon (which is a clamp style). Since the quarter panel was damaged, one of the mufflers was damaged too (which can be easily removed). I provided a new Borla muffler for them to put on (in case the inner parts of the quarter panel damaged the exhaust hangers so they can line it up properly)...and they politely told me that they don't do mechanic work. So once I got the car back, I spent 5 minutes and did it myself; luckily everything still lined up.
Tldr; this shop didn't want to mess with a non-welded muffler they're not gonna be checking my engine or trans fluids.
 
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