Any HVAC guys out there?

[bustednutz]

My outdoor heat pump fan won't come on. When unit is off, the fan spins freely with a push of a paint stick. When on AC the fan binds up and won't push start. I already replaced the capacitor.
I'm thinking I may need a new fan motor. It's an old unit but works great (other then the current fan issue)
It's an old Goodman unit that has been a champ. I don't have the bucks to shell out for a new system and would like to repair things as they go. This is the first issue I've had with it in 15 years. And the unit was here before I bough the house.
Any ideas on the fan? Amazon carries the part number.

 

[KJSmith]

How long ago did you replace the capacitor?

Check for side to side movement on the fan shaft.
If there is any, bad bearing... replace motor.
Up and down play is ok.

If you recently replaced the capacitor and it ran after replacement.... then yea, replace the motor.
If it didn't run, verify wiring.
Make sure the new motor will use the old capacitor and or get a new one.

 

[pschnahc]

+1 an energized motor that just binds up sounds like a missing (dead) run cap. I would check the wiring and test the value of the cap still. Perhaps being energized with the bad cap for an extended period has damaged one of the windings. Time to pull out the ol' multimeter and test your cap and windings. Is it combination capacitor or does the fan and herm have their own?

 

[bustednutz]

I replaced the capacitor today. I believe it was a 5/35 per the factory spec. The old one wasn't bulged but very rusty. It was an affordable swap so figured I'd give it a shot. The fan was not running at all with the new capacitor. The wiring from the fan motor looks good. As do all the connections.

 

[bullwinkle]

If it turns freely when not powered on, and hums/sticks when energized (& is wired correctly), you're going to need a new motor. A motor shop could probably test it, but it may be cheaper to just replace it.

 

[Food Scientist]

Is it the style of motor that has a start and a run capacitor? If so check the contacts that switch the motor from the start to the run windings. I have an air compressor that uses a start and a run capacitor and one day had the same symptoms you describe. Turned freely when off but hummed loudly if I tried to start it and it still turned, but wasn't truly free.

I replaced both capacitors which didn't fix it, bought a Fluke multimeter with a function to test capacitance only to find out the original capacitors were good.

The contact that switched power from the start to the run windings was corroded, so I sanded it down and it's been trouble free for 2 years now.

 

[bullwinkle]

Originally Posted by SVTCobra
Is it the style of motor that has a start and a run capacitor? If so check the contacts that switch the motor from the start to the run windings. I have an air compressor that uses a start and a run capacitor and one day had the same symptoms you describe. Turned freely when off but hummed loudly if I tried to start it and it still turned, but wasn't truly free.

I replaced both capacitors which didn't fix it, bought a Fluke multimeter with a function to test capacitance only to find out the original capacitors were good.

The contact that switched power from the start to the run windings was corroded, so I sanded it down and it's been trouble free for 2 years now.

Fan motors don't normally have start relays & capacitors (unless they're big/belt drive motors). That's why I said to have a motor shop test it, but a winding has probably failed.

 

[Fitter30]

Compressor runs and fan doesn't? Fan is controlled by a separate relay or board than the compressor. Model and serial of unit .

 

[bustednutz]

Originally Posted by Fitter30
Compressor runs and fan doesn't? Fan is controlled by a separate relay or board than the compressor. Model and serial of unit .


That's correct. Unit is a Goodman. Model number is a CPE30-1AB

 

[mk378]

Mechanically locking up is likely a bad bearing as @KJSmith said. When the bearings are really bad the rotor will be magnetically pulled into contact with the stator when the power is turned on. Take apart enough so you can grab the motor shaft by hand and feel if there is play.

 

[wallyuwl]

I had the exact same symptoms this summer as the OP. Replaced capacitor and motor and it fixed the problem. Replaced in less than an hour.

Got parts from supplyhouse.com, good prices, service (they can verify fitment based on model and serial number of AC unit), and fast shipping.

 

[wag123]

They sell condenser fan motors for reasonable prices on Amazon. Most of the fan motors used are a standard 48 frame size with standard rpm, current, and hp specs. Look at the specs on the motor that is in there and purchase one that is a close match. The universal motors may have a longer shaft than yours uses, but all you have to do is saw it off with a hacksaw to the correct length. I have used this universal ball bearing motor successfully on 3 different outside units that were manufactured by 3 different companies... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0099BBOTM/

 

[sloinker]

Make sure with your voltmeter that you are actually applying the 220 volts to the capacitor start winding. If you are, then the motor is bad.

 

[LazyDog]

Originally Posted by sloinker
Make sure with your voltmeter that you are actually applying the 220 volts to the capacitor start winding. If you are, then the motor is bad.



The contact switch should provide the 220 Volts if not the contact switch is bad

 

[sloinker]

The contactor supplies both phases of the 230 volts to the motor, the start cap is attached to one of the legs. By all means check that both legs make it through the contactor and to the motor. If 220 volts is applied to the motor and the capacitor is new, bad motor.

 

[pezzy669]

Just a side note that you might want to start planning for eventual replacement. It will be illegal to manufacture or import R22 in t-minus 4 days so prices are about to skyrocket as the supplies dwindle, it is going to push a lot of older units into uneconomical repair territory if the system needs to be opened up for any reason.

 

[bustednutz]

Yeah, we're starting to see more new vehicles in the shop I work at with the new refrigerant. It required a whole new evacuation machine and the refrigerant is over $700 per tank. And it's less than half the size of the 30lb R134A tanks.

 

[KJSmith]

Originally Posted by pezzy669
Just a side note that you might want to start planning for eventual replacement. It will be illegal to manufacture or import R22 in t-minus 4 days so prices are about to skyrocket as the supplies dwindle, it is going to push a lot of older units into uneconomical repair territory if the system needs to be opened up for any reason.


Don't get to excited about all that.
There are replacements that work.

No telling how long the stockpile will last.
The price has jumped every spring for years... it settles down after a while.

 

[Amkeer]

Plan for replacement especially if its more than 10 years old. Goodman is entry level equipment. I sold many systems to people that had Goodman. Replace with Trane, Carrier or Lennox.

 

[bustednutz]

Originally Posted by Amkeer
Plan for replacement especially if its more than 10 years old. Goodman is entry level equipment. I sold many systems to people that had Goodman. Replace with Trane, Carrier or Lennox.


Next replacement will be another Goodman or entry level equipment. Then the for sale sign goes up. Till then this one will be getting patched up. It's been a great unit for a very long time. The next owner can put in high dollar stuff. In my area of the country most HVAC companies are screws. Almost time to downsize. No longer need 4 bed 3 bath house. And the high dollar new stuff isn't so great either. I've known more people with newer units that do nothing but give them headaches.