Anti-Roll Bar P Clamp broken cant get replacement.
- Thread starter slybunda
- Start date
I've been following your thread and I'm glad that you've gotten this far! So many simple parts get discontinued and it's nice to show the way for others..
What you're describing is a mandrel part like what they use inside exhaust piping to follow a curve without rippling the metal.This would have gone better if i had a proper anvil with the pointy ends. Im going to carry on today and use the small baby bench vice i have at home the big vice just gets in the way of how i want to hold it in certain positions but just cant.
Wont give up on this iv got the basic shape done just need to get it into the proper dimensions. Im limited on my tools, at home i have a better assortment but dont have a big bench vice which is at my bros yard which is a short 3 minute walk away.
Its easy to make a rounded P clamp but the flats on the D Bush are tricky. To make the round shape i just used a socket that had the close enough diameter and hammered the bar around it.
I didnt think anyone was interested in this so wasn't going to bother with updates but since someone is following then i will keep you posted.
Wont give up on this iv got the basic shape done just need to get it into the proper dimensions. Im limited on my tools, at home i have a better assortment but dont have a big bench vice which is at my bros yard which is a short 3 minute walk away.
Its easy to make a rounded P clamp but the flats on the D Bush are tricky. To make the round shape i just used a socket that had the close enough diameter and hammered the bar around it.
I didnt think anyone was interested in this so wasn't going to bother with updates but since someone is following then i will keep you posted.
I think a lot of people are reading this but not commenting, I know I wasn't.. I apologize! I think things like what you're doing is more of a how-to or tutorial to show people how to make their own parts. The quality is getting so bad out there we might end up having to do this for the simple brackets, etc.. keep up the good work!
lol not much of a how to since i need help and input on this. but thats the good thing about forum community, more minds to share problems with and get ideas. its a real shame the car forum for the specific car i have is no longer active and people moved over to facebook groups and i cant find any info on there or assistance, the layout is just far inferior to proper forums.
Looks like iv got one working clamp made. Had to plan out how to make it. Need to make the Z shape first then can progress from there. Used a socket the similar size of the sway bar to do a test fit. Doesnt look pretty but seems functional. Just need to drill the hole then fit it. Will make some more clamps too.
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That looks awesome, great job!! Thanks for the update!
I assume this is for a Fiesta.
Have you tried Motomobil in Germany? Very reputable vendor for old and obsolete Ford parts. I have bought from them multiple times.
If the page comes up in German, you can change to English as well as changing the currency on the upper right.
www.motomobil.de
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Yes its for a mk3 ford fiesta. I will check that link out.
Also i found a local metal supplier thats a 5 minute drive from me prices are less than half of what iv been buying on the internet. 4 flat bars would be around £6.50 which is around $7 us so far more economical to make at home. And as mentioned before by someone in this thread the 1st one is always the hardest to make. I can see where i can improve in design to get better shape. having a heavy hammer is a big difference to a lighter one from what i have experienced.
I might be inclined to find a sway bar bushing clamp that was the correct dimension with the bolt hole placement and bushing size. Modify it by adding a simple piece of flat steel on the bottom. Drill a hole for the frame attachment side. On the opposite side you could drill a hole and bolt it together or cut/weld it together.
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I was going to suggest this, but weld the (extra) bolted end. Even easier here if you have the clearnce for the other bolt.
Perhaps I overlooked it, but when you are attempting to bend that, are you heating it at least slightly orange-hot first? That makes it quite a bit easier.
Also I agree with others that you could use a traditional double-eared (bolts on from both sides) bracket and weld it to a bottom plate, only on the back end since the front needs to open to accept the bushing?
If you can't weld, there may be someone local who would do something that small at minimum expense if you already have it prepped, especially if you find them on Google Maps' search and they're looking to generate good reviews. However at this point you seem nearly done so if that wasn't too much trouble, now you have a method.
Also I agree with others that you could use a traditional double-eared (bolts on from both sides) bracket and weld it to a bottom plate, only on the back end since the front needs to open to accept the bushing?
If you can't weld, there may be someone local who would do something that small at minimum expense if you already have it prepped, especially if you find them on Google Maps' search and they're looking to generate good reviews. However at this point you seem nearly done so if that wasn't too much trouble, now you have a method.
What about a specialist like Fastenal or Ace hardware? Sometimes they have things totally unexpected.
I do have a small gasless welder but prefered one solid clamp bent into shape. Now i got the hang of it its fairly easy to make, i estimate to make another one it should take about 20 minutes. Didnt need to heat it up but oh man that 5mm steel is considerably harder to do than 3mm.
If i had some sort of pipe to slip over the flat bar i could then just bend it to shape with the added leverage. Will see if i can find something lying around.
If i had some sort of pipe to slip over the flat bar i could then just bend it to shape with the added leverage. Will see if i can find something lying around.
You could heat it but there is actually no need.
Looks like you're making good progress. Once you've made one you can see how to make the next ones better - and easier.
I'd suggest that while you're at it you make a few extra. Use the best ones and keep the rest. In a few years you'd have to figure it out all over again.
A nice touch is to bead blast them before priming.
No need? It's just better than not. It was already mentioned that it was difficult, and heating it does make it easier to bend so could also, allow using thicker steel plate so it doesn't wear out/break again.
As far as that goes, if sufficiently heated, it wouldn't even need beaten into shape, just use a metal brake to put the first right angle in, and leave a bit of excess length for leverage, then reheat the bend area, bend around a pipe by hand (with a leverage bar if more leverage is needed), and use a flat chisel to put the last sharper bend in it, then cut off the excess once cooled.
If done well with thicker plate, there's no need for making extra copies unless you're in an owner's forum where you wish to help others by selling them. No need to bead blast or paint either unless it's a show car. Just lather it with the same silicone paste lube you want on the bushing.
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Saltwater will corrode 304.
Rust-Oleum galvanized spray paint is pretty good.
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